- Joined
- Mar 20, 2009
- Messages
- 207
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- 1
With lots of power & variable speed & reverse.
Well its over kill on this small lathe but I have 2 HP with a VFD hooked to it but that's temporary.
I tried it out last night to ruff this blank to round I just turned the speed up till the lathe started to vibrate the eased it back until it smoothed out it worked great & much easier & seemed to take less time.
In time I'll hook a bigger lathe to it. But for now it is better than trying to turn a 11" bowl at 740 RPM's let alone turning the 18 1/2" lazy Susan I just finished for our dining table.
I know I need some suggestions how to restrain the wires going into & out of the VFD. This is the way the motor shop connected it up. I am thinking of a L shaped sheet metal flange below it with holes for regular electrical wire restraints. The motor shop suggested mounting it to an aluminum plate as a heat sink I assume the plate should be spaced out from the wood it is mounted to to allow for air flow. I looked in the owner’s manual & there was no mention of an aluminum plate just clearance recommendations for air flow .
This is where I want to mount it until I get another lathe it is up out of the way & I can mount a piece of material on the left exposed side to protect it & still leave it open to air circulation.
I am thinking of building a bowl lathe or purchasing a Nova 16/24 or a Vega 2413B. I had this motor set up with both the 56 frame & the C frame so I can purchase or build what I want.
I need thoughts on whether I need a morse taper in the head for a bowl lathe? I have seen several shop built bowl lathes with no morse taper.
I still will have a Jet 1014 that & I can get the extension to turn spindles.
I most generally use a face plate to start my bowl turning starting with the bottom & a tenon then onto the chuck. I checked I can get a spindle made for about $100 with the 1 1/4 x 8 TPI & the other end turned to mount my pulley including key way, & then using flange bearings build my own head & a heavy duty bed from rail road iron, as in the pic attached. You can read about it here. http://www.woodcentral.com/shots/shot473.shtml I can get some 90# rail from a friend of mine. 90# for every 3' of rail. I am looking to make a 24" swing lathe What about ideas for a removable tail-stock that will be the right height & slide on & off the ways & clamp down properly to assist ruffing out. More later.
Well its over kill on this small lathe but I have 2 HP with a VFD hooked to it but that's temporary.
I tried it out last night to ruff this blank to round I just turned the speed up till the lathe started to vibrate the eased it back until it smoothed out it worked great & much easier & seemed to take less time.
In time I'll hook a bigger lathe to it. But for now it is better than trying to turn a 11" bowl at 740 RPM's let alone turning the 18 1/2" lazy Susan I just finished for our dining table.
I know I need some suggestions how to restrain the wires going into & out of the VFD. This is the way the motor shop connected it up. I am thinking of a L shaped sheet metal flange below it with holes for regular electrical wire restraints. The motor shop suggested mounting it to an aluminum plate as a heat sink I assume the plate should be spaced out from the wood it is mounted to to allow for air flow. I looked in the owner’s manual & there was no mention of an aluminum plate just clearance recommendations for air flow .
This is where I want to mount it until I get another lathe it is up out of the way & I can mount a piece of material on the left exposed side to protect it & still leave it open to air circulation.
I am thinking of building a bowl lathe or purchasing a Nova 16/24 or a Vega 2413B. I had this motor set up with both the 56 frame & the C frame so I can purchase or build what I want.
I need thoughts on whether I need a morse taper in the head for a bowl lathe? I have seen several shop built bowl lathes with no morse taper.
I still will have a Jet 1014 that & I can get the extension to turn spindles.
I most generally use a face plate to start my bowl turning starting with the bottom & a tenon then onto the chuck. I checked I can get a spindle made for about $100 with the 1 1/4 x 8 TPI & the other end turned to mount my pulley including key way, & then using flange bearings build my own head & a heavy duty bed from rail road iron, as in the pic attached. You can read about it here. http://www.woodcentral.com/shots/shot473.shtml I can get some 90# rail from a friend of mine. 90# for every 3' of rail. I am looking to make a 24" swing lathe What about ideas for a removable tail-stock that will be the right height & slide on & off the ways & clamp down properly to assist ruffing out. More later.