Best product for lathe bed lubrication & rust prevention

[Roger Chandler]

Hello all,

I was wondering how most experienced turners lubricate/rustproof their lathe bed ways. Currently, I am using Boesheild T9, but did not know if there was a better way to go?

I want something that does not gum up if possible, and I don't know if that is even possible considering we put wood dust all over the machine when we turn.

Let me know what your opinion is . . . . Thanks!

 

[john lucas]

I used to use Johnson's paste wax but now I just use a regular clean and lube with a WD-40. I always lube before and after any green wood turning. For dry wood I lube anytime the tool rest starts to get sluggish to move.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I used Boeshield T-9 once and thought that it was the worst mess that I have ever tried. It is OK for displacing water, but made sliding the tool rest and tailstock much more difficult than when I used Johnson's paste wax. I clened off the Boeshield with mineral spirits and went back to the paste wax. I have not found anything that I like better and it certainly is a lot less expensive than all of those boutique products that are advertised specifically for things like table saws, lathes, etc. I also use Johnson's Paste Wax for lubricating things like the acme screws on my planer, the soles of hand planes, sliding jigs, and sliding window tracks. I hear that it can even be used to wax furniture, but never have gotten around to confirming that claim.

I have lots of Boeshield left over from my days of being an aircraft owner. It is great stuff for pulleys, bellcranks, and hinges, but I will never use it again on a surface that I want to make slick.

 

[ray hampton]

do the store sell WD-40 in pints or quarts containers

 

[Bill Boehme]

^^ You can get it in containers from 4 oz. up to 55 gallon drums. It is also available in various sizes of spray containers.

 

[Rob Wallace]

Roger:

I have been using Bostik "Top-Cote" to seal the machined surfaces of the lathe ways, sliding headstocks, and the banjo and tailstock on all three of my lathes for many years, as well as the surfaces of my table saw, jointer, and band saw. I have not used Boeshield T-9, but I have heard it can get a bit messy; I have never had a problem with the Top-Cote.

CLICK HERE for Top Cote on amazon.com

Rob Wallace

 

[ray hampton]

I got the spray cans version of wd -40---using a spray can in the wind---not soooo goood----a pump oil can or a big syringe will work better

 

[Jim Silva]

I've always used WD-40 for an overall rust preventative. For the sliding bits I use plain old paraffin wax, wiped on then gone over with a paper towel wet with the afore mentioned WD-40 (or mineral spirits) to cut the wax and prevent "gunking".

The paraffin wax is something I always have around for use on all other machinery surfaces as well as a lubricant for woodworm screws, drill bits, snow shovels and home made preserves.

The paste wax does the same thing but I find the paraffin more versatile for my purposes. YMMV.

I also find that for things like saw fences and jointer beds/fences that food-safe silicone spray (available from the Borgs) works wonders without leaving any oily residue.

 

[fgvanatta]

Johnson's Wax has always worked well for me.

 

[Bernie Weishapl]

I clean with WD-40 then wipe off followed by Johnsons paste wax.

 

[John Jordan]

WD-40 all the way. You can't use too much.

John

 

[Joe Mioux]

another wd40 user.

its cheap, easy and effective.

 

[Russ Fairfield]

Kerosese

Cleans and leaves a lubricating film

 

[allen jay]

wd 40 does attract water.
just use spray silicone it dosnt attract water

 

[MichaelMouse]

wd 40 does attract water.
just use spray silicone it dosnt attract water

WD = Water Displacement. The petroleum base (Stoddard solvent) does not mix with water, nor "attract" it.

 

[Vernon Oberle]

another vote for wd-40

I use WD40 to clean the ways and other surfaces using one of the very fine grit blocks to remove any unwanted coatings. I then spray with TopCote. It not only blocks rust but is a nice lubricant. I use this method on all my machinery tops. I have used the T-9 but didn't like it near as well as it did not seem to last as long.

Vernon

 

[ray hampton]

do a thin coat of wd-40 attract dust ?

 

[Michaels]

I've never found it to Ray. WD will evaporate quickly though, so it is NOT a long term protectant.

Interesting tidbit, as MM noted it is the 40'th attempt at creating a product for water displacement, hence the WD-40 name. However, ever notice that smell? ... Fish oil is what it was originally formulated from, I think they've gone to a commercial substitute now - but VERY similar.

Great stuff, gallon containers at the borg run less than $20 and last a long time.

michael

 

[ray hampton]

I am thinking about using petroleum jelly on all of my steel tools except for the spinning parts

 

[John Jordan]

I am thinking about using petroleum jelly on all of my steel tools except for the spinning parts

You're worried about attracting dust with WD40, but are going to coat it with Vaseline? Your lathe will get dusty no matter what, WD40 is not sticky, you should do it daily anyway. I have been through gallons of WD40, and never, ever has there been ANY sort of problem. I spray everything, liberally and daily. Chucks too.

The lathe is not the same as a table saw, particularly if one turns green wood.

Silicone can cause finish problems, but it will work. The use of anything puts one ahead of many people, who do nothing.

John

 

[Bill Boehme]

If I am not mistaken, I believe that WD-40 actually has a perfume as one of its ingredients that apparently appeals to mechanics.

 

[Michaels]

LOL Bill. That's priceless.

 

[John Jordan]

John

 

[robert davis]

in between periodic cleaning with wd 40 irub the ways with stub of a candle.

 

[ray hampton]

You're worried about attracting dust with WD40, but are going to coat it with Vaseline? Your lathe will get dusty no matter what, WD40 is not sticky, you should do it daily anyway. I have been through gallons of WD40, and never, ever has there been ANY sort of problem. I spray everything, liberally and daily. Chucks too.

The lathe is not the same as a table saw, particularly if one turns green wood.

Silicone can cause finish problems, but it will work. The use of anything puts one ahead of many people, who do nothing.

John

thanks John but I said that I were thinking about using the jelly and will keep thinking about it but not using it----fine wood dust got a bad habit of finding it way into places that are too -hard to get to to clean and the jelly would add to that problem real QUICK---do your green wood mean wood with the sap running it it, I cut trees that were still green and toss them into the stove the same day [locust tree]

 

[Roger Chandler]

Pro Gold 2000

Has anyone here ever used Pro-Gold 2000 spray lubricant from Craft Supplies? It says in their catalog [pg.39] that it penetrates the bed ways, and will not attract dust and dirt.

I wonder if it has silicone in it, or is totally petroleum product? Prevention of Build up and rust are what I am looking for, as well as ease of moving banjo and tailstock.

 

[Wayne Spence]

Ray Hampton

At Harbor Freight yesterday. One gallon of WD40 for $19.99 plus tax. Can't beat it, I know of no one who has died from using it or drinking it.

 

[ray hampton]

I have been postponing the trip to H F--- maybe in the next week, thanks for the info.

 

[DaveL]

Boeshield

Interesting comments on Boeshield. I use Boeshield on my Lathe, Table Saw, Bandsaw, and jointer beds; i think it provides better protection and lasts longer than wax, top coat, or WD-40. I live along the coast so our humidity is probably higher than most places.

The first time i used it i sprayed it on the lathe beds and left it to dry over night, i ended up with a stick surface in the morning. After i read the directions (if all else fails I read the manual ), it says to spray and wipe off for a light coat or spray and let sit for a heavy coat.

Now about every six months i spray on a heavy coat and let it sit overnight then polish it in the morning with a rag, after polishing the surface is protected and slippery. About once a week i spray a light coat and wipe off immediatley and everything remains clean and protected.

I still use WD-40 on the tailstock quill and chucks because i don't think any product that builds up would be good for items with close sliding tolerances.

My experience with ProGold 2000 is that it is very similar to a light machine oil, I used it on the trunion slides and worm gears in my tablesaw once. Everything ended up sticky and coated with dust, i ended up tearing the saw apart to clean everything off. Now i just use the spray silicone that dries.

Dave

 

[waltben]

I've tried several rust inhibitors and cleaners, but still keep going back to WD-40. It's cheap, it works, it's available almost anywhere, and you can clean surface rust off with it and a Scotch Brite pad.

 

[Roger Chandler]

consensus on WD -40

I've tried several rust inhibitors and cleaners, but still keep going back to WD-40. It's cheap, it works, it's available almost anywhere, and you can clean surface rust off with it and a Scotch Brite pad.

Walt,

One cannot hardly argue with what works. Even though I brought up this thread, I see that there is a consensus as to WD-40. I also use it, but have tried other products, and wd-40 does not gum up on the ways, like boesheild t9 which is a good product, only it does seem to collect dust from turning.

I like that it does clean any surface rust away, and scotch brite pads are a perfect compliment to wd-40.

 

[Dennis Perez]

I've tried wd40, boeshied, and wax. But Fluid Film works the best for me. I recently turned several bowls that were wet. I started to get rust on the ways. I spray Fluid Film and let it sit overnight and the next morning I wipe it down. Rust is gone the banjo slides easily.

 

[Vicki Hayden]

Paraffin on the bed ways and tool rest (sometimes)

 

[Darryl Fective]

I had some old automatic transmission fluid, so I put in a jar with a disposable chip brush. Seems to work well for me. (with no perfume smell)