Walnut oil
Hi, Peter...
In fact, I did ask Mike...in person... at the AAW Sym. in Portland this year, and no, he was not at all helpful. I've done some research since my last post on this subject and found out (on Daly's web site) about a thing called "bleed back" . The condition is prevalent with open grain woods...such as my oak...and shows up as tiny beads of 'sweat' days after the finish was applied.
I also learned a bit about rancification of nut oils (walnut included) and the potential for allergic reaction among a small percentage of the population. Further, I get it that, walnut oil, as a "straight oil" is probably not the right choice of product for my kind of work and accordingly, my expectation of Mahoney's oil was out of line. I make very few "utility" bowls. And finally, if I were to make salad bowls, there are alternatives (such as beeswax) that produces a similar finish appearance without the concerns noted above.
If any of you would like the unused portion of my bottle of Mahoney Oil, let me know, I'll box it up and send it to you for Christmas. No charge. I won't use it again.
If my postings on this subject ring of sour grapes, consider the work that went into that tough, old, endgrain-hollowed oaken pitcher and that Mahoney himself told me that it was likely ruined by encapsulating the walnut oil with the tung oil, that it might start smelling rancid, and if used for food or drink, might make someone sick. (might be I'm getting old and cranky too)
For deeper study, you can Google Mike Mahoney's web site, Daly's Sea-fin, and there is a bit from Russ Fairfield over on the WC boards this morning.
Mike Jones in Nor. Cal.