Help with the parting tool

[robinhelen]

Hi,
I started wood turning a week ago and am getting on really well, a couple of bowls and a lot of firewood, Which is what I am turning from so nothing lost. Hornbeam and oak 2 years old.
My problem is the parting tool. I am getting pretty good with the skew I am happy with bowl gouges, spindle gouges etc. Dig ins are down to a minimum all round. Except with the pesky parting tool. I am using a 1/4" square parting and beading tool by Henry Taylor. Sometimes it works just fine and others it only digs in. It is ground to 50 degrees. It seems the further I get from the work the worse it gets. I have tried different tool rest heights. Should I be using a rectangular dedicated parting tool or a narrower one? Is the 1/4" square really for beading and a compromise as a parting tool? Or am I just doing it wrong?
I am bevel rubbing and then very carefully raising the handle to engage the edge...then bang Dig in!! It is making the skew seem really easy which can't be right.
If someone can help me with some advise I would be over the moon.
Many Thanks,
Robin

 

[kwgeorge]

Perhaps I can be a bit of assistance. It would seem that you are not alone with your problems with the parting tool and it was a question that was raised not to long ago on another forum I frequent. After several messages attempting to explain I ended up creating a tutorial. I even ended up adding just a bit of video so maybe it will help you also.

http://www.theturnersshop.com/turning/partingtool/ptuse_1.html

 

[robinhelen]

George,
Fantastic work I watched the vids and read the article and I obviously have the technique correct it seems. The problem still remains with the dig in just as the tool engages when coming off the bevel rubbing mode. Some of the time it works just fine and looks just like the video and feels right. Is there a limit to how large a diameter wood can be started on like this. Maybe speed is the problem. Yesterday I was trying to part off a bowl so the rest was 4" from the start of the parting cut. Maybe this is too far and I am asking too much. Oak seems more difficult than the hornbeam.
Robin

 

[kwgeorge]

Sometimes I have a problem on wood with different hardness in the grain. An example would be some Ash I just made knobs from. In this case when the wood starts to grab and the tool bounces a bit I will alter my presentation just a bit by decreasing the angle of attack.

 

[Steve Worcester]

First understand that a 1/4" parting tool is quite large. Typically, a parting tool is thinner.

That said, one of the issues with a parting tool is that the deeper you go, the more likely it is going to catch on the sides. Make sure to take extra cuts on the sides to allow clearance and for the wood swelling. Also, I would not part off mush more than a few inches off of the tool rest. I personally prefer to reverse the piece and turn off the tenon with a gouge. In the case of a spindle, (I have done a few) I would use a narrower tool and take out material on the sides for clearance.

 

[robinhelen]

Steve,
Thanks for the reply. Maybe I should try a smaller tool then. I feel this is where the problem lies as you suggest. I am experiencing the problem at first contact with the wood and not further into the cut. I am doing as you suggest and taking extra cuts on the waste side of the parting. Today I have been doing spindle work much closer in and have had no problems. Looks like a new tool is in order though.I was reluctant to just throw money at tools when the problem was with me but from what you say it is likely to be where the problem lies as a narrower cut must help. I was thinking of a 1/8" tool.What do you reckon? Reversing and gouging off would be the obvious answer but at present I have no facility to do so (I have already reversed from a faceplate) as I do not posess a chuck.

Many thanks to both you guys I am glad I found the forum It has been very helpful.

Robin

 

[arbud]

Apart from your wood...

Might I suggest that you look at the Sorby 1/16", flutted, parting tool. It's absolutly the best parting tool I've used. In fact I used it twice today.

You can buy the tool any Robert Sorby tool merchant; Woodcraft and Woodturner's catalog are 2.

 

[Craneman54]

kw,can you provide a part no. or link to that HSS cobalt rod you use.I have been looking at the Enco site and can't seem to find what you describe.

Thanks.

 

[kwgeorge]

kw,can you provide a part no. or link to that HSS cobalt rod you use.I have been looking at the Enco site and can't seem to find what you describe.

Thanks.

Here you go;
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INLMK3?PMK0NO=344997

If you look to the bottom of this page you will find "Tool Bits"
I have purchased several pieces and have made some nice tools with this stuff and it is so cheap. I have about $12 in a hollowing set that retails for over $100.

 

[Wally Dickerman]

I suggest that you obtain a diamond parting tool. The cutting surface is 1/8-inch, which will give you fewer problems than a 1/4-inch tool, and is probably a more versatile tool than the others. When you grind the tool, grind it so that the widest part of the tool is right at the cutting edge.

There really are two ways to correctly use the tool. As a cutting tool, with the handle down and the underside ground edge laid on the wood. Just push in and raise the handle. It can also be used as a scraping tool. With the handle up, and the tool just pushed toward the center of the wood. As has been mentioned, widen the cut as you go to prevent binding.

 

[Steve Worcester]

Might I suggest that you look at the Sorby 1/16", flutted, parting tool.

I have to say, I really like this tool as well. It is really good for small flutes too. Very stable and because it is so tall (thick) it can go a bit further off of the tool rest

 

[Craneman54]

Kwgeorge,Thanks a bunch.

I almost drove myself mad looking for the tool bits.

Some might say that is a short trip for me.