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How can I measure chisel angles?

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I want to start fine tuning my chisel angles. I have a bench grinder and home made jigs for grinding the same angle, but I need to determine what angle I'm ending up with. What is the best free or low cost way to measure the angles on my chisels? Is there any easy method, or a low cost item ($10-$15) that will do it? Is there anything free on the Internet I can download and use?
 
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I want to start fine tuning my chisel angles. I have a bench grinder and home made jigs for grinding the same angle, but I need to determine what angle I'm ending up with. What is the best free or low cost way to measure the angles on my chisels? Is there any easy method, or a low cost item ($10-$15) that will do it? Is there anything free on the Internet I can download and use?

Take one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/6-t-bevel-69367.html

Add one of these http://www.staples.com/Staedtler-Mars-180-Degree-Protractor/product_274704 [or swipe, er . . borrow, the one in the kid's school bag :D )
 

hockenbery

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The tormek we bought 20 years ago came with little plastic gauge with notches.

Here is a photo of a gauge and way to to us an angle guard.
 

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odie

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Here is a handy little gauge for checking angles. Fixed pivot point, and hairline pointer to the exact angle. Knob locks it in. This one was being tossed out where I work because the rivet was loose on the pivot point......was an easy fix and free to me! I did use a fixed gauge at one time, but this one works perfectly, and accurately adjusts to any angle from 0° to 180°......

SPI, stainless steel, Japan, 30-94-1
 

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Maybe I'm just igurnunt here, but I don't see a whole lot of purpose in measuring the angles unless one is trying to replicate someone else's recipe. Not, mind you, that it's a bad idea to try what someone else is doing. It's just that is the only reason that jumps out at me for caring about specific angles on tools.

I just sharpen my tools and If I want more or less angle (for whatever reason) I sharpen the tool with more or less angle according to my whim. I don't pay a whole lot of attention to the exact angle.

If one day I read that some esteemed craftsman insists that angle X is the bee's knees for a certain tool or application, and I also happen to be having some similar issue or concern, then I may (or not) look at my tool and ask if maybe something closer to that recommendation might be just the ticket. I can sort of hit any given angle by eye within a couple degrees.

Mind you, I know plenty of galoots who fuss over the angle to which they sharpen their plane irons invoking a level of particularity and care that I'd hope my heart surgeon has when he does his aorta stitching job, but I sort of think the galoots are over-playing it a bit.
 

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Maybe I'm just igurnunt here, but I don't see a whole lot of purpose in measuring the angles unless one is trying to replicate someone else's recipe. Not, mind you, that it's a bad idea to try what someone else is doing. It's just that is the only reason that jumps out at me for caring about specific angles on tools....

So, are you fer it or agin' it?

Unless there could be a looming gotcha from following a particular course, I personally try not to worry why some folks don't realize that my way is the best. :rolleyes: Sometimes I fail and go on to describe how to build a nuclear clock when somebody just asks for the time.
 
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measuring angles

Robyn,
An inexpensive way to measure angles on your chisels could be as follows: purchase or make an angle copier and use it to copy the angle of your chisel and then place it on a protractor and read the angle. Two pieces of 1/4" x1" x 6" joined at one end with a short 3/16" bolt as a hinge will make an angle copier which can be place on a protractor for the angle measurement. Very inexpensive.

Dan Elliott
 
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in one of is videos (see the D-Waytools.com website), Dave Schweitzer shows how to measure the angle using the miter gauge that comes with just about every stationery power tool you buy. Can't think of a less expensive alternative, and it works pretty well. I for one have pile of those things. Nice to know there's a good use to put them to...
 

odie

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Maybe I'm just igurnunt here, but I don't see a whole lot of purpose in measuring the angles unless one is trying to replicate someone else's recipe. Not, mind you, that it's a bad idea to try what someone else is doing. It's just that is the only reason that jumps out at me for caring about specific angles on tools.

I just sharpen my tools and If I want more or less angle (for whatever reason) I sharpen the tool with more or less angle according to my whim. I don't pay a whole lot of attention to the exact angle.

If one day I read that some esteemed craftsman insists that angle X is the bee's knees for a certain tool or application, and I also happen to be having some similar issue or concern, then I may (or not) look at my tool and ask if maybe something closer to that recommendation might be just the ticket. I can sort of hit any given angle by eye within a couple degrees.

Mind you, I know plenty of galoots who fuss over the angle to which they sharpen their plane irons invoking a level of particularity and care that I'd hope my heart surgeon has when he does his aorta stitching job, but I sort of think the galoots are over-playing it a bit.

Yes, exactly, Raul......

It's good for you to point this out.

At one time, the angles of lathe tools was more important than it is to me now. I'm pretty much in tune with what you're saying here.....haven't used that angle gauge I posted a pic of very much in the past ten years, or so. As you say, the exact angle isn't important.....it can be off a few degrees one way or another, and can be ground by eye. This is very much like the tool rest height......it can vary a little and you can easily adjust the presentation of your lathe tool, so that it's cutting with maximum efficiency. What's really important is knowing how to use the tool, not the exactness of these angles......

ko
 

hockenbery

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I agree that. Precise angles are not important in wood turning but ball park angles are.

I like 30 degrees on a spindle gouge but anything from 25-35 is usable.
a bowl gouge i prefer 60 degrees but depending on the bowl other angles may be needed to ride the bevel.
For example on a closed spherical bowl you might need 40 to cut under the rim, 60 to cut from the shoulder to bottom transition, and 80 for the bottom.

I like the Ellsworth grind on the bowl gouge.
The beauty of this grind is the nose angle is 60 degrees the, transition from nose to wing is 45 degrees and the wing is 25-30 degrees.

I encourage students to use the Ellsworth jig. They can learn to sharpen the gouge in about 5 minutes.
I have them go through the moves with the grinder off.
Then I have them sharpen each side with the grinder turned off just before they start.

The basic starting sequence is sharpen each side twice and then from side to side blending and sharpening the nose.
This help prevent grinding a concave in the nose which has less metal contacting the wheel than the wings.


Have fun, work safely
Al
 
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I have played with angles a lot over the years, and close works fine. I have 3 main bowl gouge angles. I tried the 40/40 Batty grind, and found it to be too pointy for me. I use a 45/45 grind and prefer it on the outsides, and down the inside rim. I have a number of 60 degree bevel gouges. They are best for the transition area and for a lot of bowls, they are fine for also going across the bottoms of bowls, and in general I prefer them for any concave surface. I don't like them for the rim and the outside of the bowl. This could just be that I am not used to them as a lot of people use this bevel angle. All of my bottom feeder type gouges are at 70 degrees, and they will get across the bottom of just about any bowl I do, no matter how deep it is. I have some swept back gouges, but almost never use them. The biggest advantage I can see with them is the long wings are great for shear scrape type clean up cuts. Also it makes for more cutting edge to put into the wood for roughing. For me, scrapers that are swept back do a much better job for shear scrapes and heavy roughing. My detail type gouges are 35 or so degrees. Not sure what my skew is sharpened to. SRGs at 40 or so. All scrapers at 70 degrees.

robo hippy
 
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Maybe I'm just igurnunt here, but I don't see a whole lot of purpose in measuring the angles unless one is trying to replicate someone else's recipe. Not, mind you, that it's a bad idea to try what someone else is doing. It's just that is the only reason that jumps out at me for caring about specific angles on tools.

I just sharpen my tools and If I want more or less angle (for whatever reason) I sharpen the tool with more or less angle according to my whim. I don't pay a whole lot of attention to the exact angle. ...

As a beginner, with a cheap set of Benjamin chisels I don't mind abusing, I would like to see the difference between say a 40, 45, and 50 degree angle on chisel X, and be able to duplicate this. After time, I can hopefully sharpen to my whim without an angle gauge. I appreciate your input.
 
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The winner

If you feel like going high tech for low tech dollars then General also has this one or this slightly more expensive one.

Thanks Bill. I just ordered the "General Tools 5in Ultra Tech Digital Angle Finder With Rules" from Amazon for 19 bucks (yes, I'm over budget as usual). I have Amazon Prime, so I get it free 2 day shipping.

angl.jpg
 

john lucas

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That tool might not work depending on the length of the flute that you ha e to insert the gauge into to measure the angle. I use a general tools protractor like oldie showed. The shorter protector part fits down the flute of short gouges.
A trick I use for shorter gouges is to make a rectangular
Stick that fits in the flute. Both sides need to be parallel of course. One side is rounded to fit the flute. Now you can read from the be el to the top of the stick and get a n accurate angle
 

Bill Boehme

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John, it isn't necessary to measure at the bottom of the flute. You can lay a short steel ruler on top of the gouge so that it spans across the flutes and then lay one leg of the tool on top of the steel ruler. That way, you don't need to worry about the legs of the angle gauge being too long.

Another option is to lay one leg on the bottom of the gouge to get the complementary angle. I think that the tool can automatically display the complement of the measured angle.

This tool could even be used to make a set of fixed angle jigs that have specific angles so that they can then be held up to the tool to check the bevel of the tool.
 
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