Quiet Dust Collector?

[Mark Jundanian]

I have a Laguna 3HP P-Flux dust collector in my basement workshop. Despite the added sound insulation of the P series, it is loud. Working at the airport loud. I always wear hearing protection when running it, which I can live with, but you hear this thing all over the house (even the second floor). So I've been wondering if I could find something quieter.

What is the quietest DC out there? Oneida Supercell?

I'd be willing to step down the horsepower, indeed there would be advantages to 120V power over 240V. Locating the DC outside the house, or even outside the workshop is not an option.

Any thoughts?

 

[robo hippy]

Not positive about decibels, but I have had a 3 hp Oneida system for 20 or so years. In my previous shop, I had it in an enclosed room with sheet rock on the outside and a 1 1/2 thick piece of that pink foam insulation board for a door. I could carry on a conversation next to it without having to shop. In my new shop, I have yet to enclose it in a room, but need to. I don't need hearing protection when I use my bandsaws which are maybe 10 feet away. No clue about the Laguna system. Supposedly the air moving through the ducts can cause as much noise as the motor. My old shop was 24 by 36. My new shop is almost 3 times that size. My dust collector kind of sits in the middle, so no really long runs of duct work. I can run 2 machines at once and have at least adequate air flow. That is why I got the 3 hp system. How much flow you need depends on the size of your shop, and if you want to run one or two machines at once. My first shop was 400 sq. feet on the outside of the building. A 1 hp system could have worked there, at least for one machine. Since I was the only one in the shop, it was never a problem. Having a central system was a huge upgrade. I do have the "Long Ranger" remote start set up. It came with my Oneida collector. They don't carry that any more. It works on FM frequency, so I don't have to point it at the machine. I have had to replace the on/off switches a couple of times. They seem to get lost in the shavings....

robo hippy

 

[Alan Weinberg]

Not positive about decibels

for free, download a decibel meter such as SoundPrint. Shocking how loud some things are—and dangerous to hearing. We bring ear plugs to concerts—have recorded over 105 dB.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

I actually have a real decibel meter I bought when we used to have Radio Shacks. My chief concern is not so much how loud it is in the shop, but how loud it is in the rest of the house. Interesting comment about as much noise from the duct work as the machine. My experience is the opposite, if the flex duct is not connected to the unit, I know immediately, even with hearing protection . I'm just hoping that there's some technology out there that performs with a little less noise, hence the question about the Supercell.

 

[Karl Loeblein]

Compare your DBA noise level of your current system to a Harvey Gyro-Air G-700. These units have a speed setting that can help lower the noise level when you don’t need it running full blast.

https://www.harveywoodworking.com/collections/gyro-airs

 

[Tom Gall]

@Mark Jundanian Questions:
1. What is the ceiling height in your shop? Open floor joists?
2. Any part of the DC touching the joists? This would transfer noise/vibration to the framing.
Maybe you could try some rigid styrofoam insulation to the joists over the DC. If that helps then you could even go to sound proofing tiles (more $$$). You could also build a partial box made from the rigid stuff around the DC (2 or 3 sided) to see if that helps with the shop noise. No framing necessary - just duct tape. If that works ... then you can get fancy!

 

[Robert Satterfield]

Expensive but quiet...look at the Harvey turbo series. Very heavy, too!

 

[Ron Solfest]

I’ve had a couple dust collectors in different shops, 6 years ago I upgraded to a 3hp Oneida in my new shop (18x25, 9ft ceilings) with dedicated runs under the floor, through ceiling and along wall. Clearly the Oneida is more than I need, but I love being able to leave multiple gates open, the remotes, and its quietness. I can’t hear the radio over it unless I turn it up loud but don’t need hearing protection when running tools, other than long sessions at the lathe when I wear noise canceling earbuds and listen to music or news.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

This may not be critical but I investigated sound proofing when I had a basement shop. the studs will carry sound and to slow that there are strips you put on studs before applying sheet rock to slow this transmission. Also I cannot remember what but there are mediums that are much better than fiberglas and foam at stopping sound transmission in walls.

How to Soundproof Walls will give you some answers.

 

[robo hippy]

I never thought of this before, but my system is supported by a frame work and is not bolted or screwed to the walls or floor. No clue as to how that would change noise levels.

robo hippy

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Certainly a mechanical connection is going to transfer sound/vibration more efficiently.

 

[Kevin Jesequel]

I’ve had a Harvey G-700 for about a year now. The machine itself is very quiet. When using a machine such as my bandsaw, it isn’t any louder than the saw. When using the dust hood at my lathe, the sound of air rushing into the 5” hose is quite loud. I always wear noise cancelling earbuds while sanding, so it doesn’t bother me. The sound does not travel far into the house (shop is in the garage, not a basement). If you have an existing duct system, it may take a bit of rework to tie into this machine. The Oneida V system has very good specs and seems very quiet with the included silencers. It would likely be the more “plug and play” option if you have an existing duct system.

 

[Alan Weinberg]

I’ve had a Harvey G-700 for about a year now.

looks awesome but $2600 even on sale. How much more did you have to spend on accessories to get it up and running?

 

[Kevin Jesequel]

looks awesome but $2600 even on sale. How much more did you have to spend on accessories to get it up and running?

I just had to plug it in (I already had a 220v receptacle). I plan to duct it eventually, but suction has been great through hoses. I have a 5” hose to my dust hood at my lathe that I use as a port for connecting other tools when needed. It was cheaper a year ago (shipping was less too). I think the V system is over $3500 these days.

 

[Monty Ivy]

Just a suggestion here. Instead of running one big whole shop DC, break the system up into zones or by tool. Operate one at a time with smaller quieter units.

This one is said to run at 68db,

Record Power, CGV336-4-US, CamVac 55L 2000w Vacuum, 4" Inlet with Hose

Your Source for Woodturning Tools, Chucks, Lathes, Pen Kits and Project Supplies

www.thewoodturningstore.com

 

[Brian Gustin]

Just a suggestion here. Instead of running one big whole shop DC, break the system up into zones or by tool. Operate one at a time with smaller quieter units.

This one is said to run at 68db,

This is something I've been considering myself... I keep seeing some nice big shop vacs all the time on facebook marketplace at really good deals ("Estate Sale, "like new, used a few times, no longer needed" for $10 or so. for a 5 gallon shop vac.) and thinking how much easier it would be if I could just plug in a shop vac along with the tool I want to use and switch both on with a master switch (I can do my own wiring no probs.) It'd eliminate needing to walk across the shop to close Blast Gate A and then back to open Blast Gate B and turning the big DC on.... and I wouldn't forget and leave DC running overnight (did that once - I'm deaf so I never hear the DC running..) maybe some time down the road after we get more settled in (moved into my childhood home after Dad passed, been working on that most of the last 3 months or so...)

 

[robo hippy]

Well, the difference between the shop vac and the real DC systems is that the shop vac is high velocity in a small hose, while a DC system is high volume at a slower velocity. The shop vacs are also much noisier. So, while the vacs do work some what, they won't pull nearly as much dust out of the air as a real DC system will. The Festool set up is pretty nice for sanding, and it starts up when the tool starts up. It has an enclosed hood around the sanding discs, so it pretty much gets everything. Any almost totally enclosed tool will work the same. A big gulp type of hood for your lathe would not work nearly as well with a shop vac compared to a DC system.

robo hippy

 

[Kevin Jenness]

This is something I've been considering myself... I keep seeing some nice big shop vacs all the time on facebook marketplace at really good deals ("Estate Sale, "like new, used a few times, no longer needed" for $10 or so. for a 5 gallon shop vac.) and thinking how much easier it would be if I could just plug in a shop vac along with the tool I want to use and switch both on with a master switch (I can do my own wiring no probs.) It'd eliminate needing to walk across the shop to close Blast Gate A and then back to open Blast Gate B and turning the big DC on.... and I wouldn't forget and leave DC running overnight (did that once - I'm deaf so I never hear the DC running..) maybe some time down the road after we get more settled in (moved into my childhood home after Dad passed, been working on that most of the last 3 months or so...)

I'll just point out re the linked unit that 2000 watts (9 amps @220volts) is more like 1.5 hp than 2.7 hp, and 229 cfm is quite low for pulling dust off a lathe even with a very effective dust hood. That low volume will be true with any shop vac, as Robo said. Effective dust control isn't cheap no matter how you go about it. Single stage systems are more likely be either less effective at keeping small particles out of the air or require more filter maintenance than a well- designed two stage system. Any system with a pleated cartridge filter is going to have problems if there is significant particle load reaching the filter.

 

[Steve Chaplin]

I built a dust collector closet, insulated with rockwool, Took the noise level from 92db to 62db.

 

[Stan Pressner]

I built a dust collector closet, insulated with rockwool, Took the noise level from 92db to 62db.

Steve, can you give me the details of how you insulated?

 

[Steve Chaplin]

It is more than just insulation, will try to explain, pictures too for more clarity.
The cabinet is sealed, does not have to be perfect, minor leaks ok. It attaches to the ceiling and floor and is framed using 2x4s like doing a wall.
The airflow must go over the motor to keep it cool. This is done by making a passage between two studs from top to bottom exit. I also put a baffle box in that passage, basically a zigzag with some carpet to reduce the noise coming out of the exit grill.


The cabinet (did add another grate above the one shown for better airflow). The door is completely sealed with weather stripping and also has a seal on the door bottom. Note the latches (there are 3), these hold them closed. The door is pretty heavy, the hinges are heavy duty.



Cabinet open showing insulation and cyclone. Note the rockwool is held into the studs using plastic plumbers tape. There is a wire and turnbuckle in the door under the insulation for support and squareness.



The baffle box before assembly.



It was a lot of work but well worth it.

 

[Stan Pressner]

It is more than just insulation, will try to explain, pictures too for more clarity.
The cabinet is sealed, does not have to be perfect, minor leaks ok. It attaches to the ceiling and floor and is framed using 2x4s like doing a wall.
The airflow must go over the motor to keep it cool. This is done by making a passage between two studs from top to bottom exit. I also put a baffle box in that passage, basically a zigzag with some carpet to reduce the noise coming out of the exit grill.


The cabinet (did add another grate above the one shown for better airflow). The door is completely sealed with weather stripping and also has a seal on the door bottom. Note the latches (there are 3), these hold them closed. The door is pretty heavy, the hinges are heavy duty.

View attachment 55258

Cabinet open showing insulation and cyclone. Note the rockwool is held into the studs using plastic plumbers tape. There is a wire and turnbuckle in the door under the insulation for support and squareness.

View attachment 55259

The baffle box before assembly.

View attachment 55262

It was a lot of work but well worth it.

Many, many thanks!

 

[Michael Dean]

If it helps, I have the momma-bear Jet cyclone in a basement shop. It is not too loud in the shop, and assuming the shop door is closed, it is barely heard in the rest of the house. It's the JCDC-2 model, two hp and 230 single-phase. It provides plenty of air flow for any two machines at a time. I use it often. Hose-end air flow can be much louder than the unit if reduced from 4" to 2" on a single branch, with other branches closed off. How you configure the system, how you use it, and what type of ducting you use will affect the noise level too.

I'd say the noise it does make is more mid and lower frequency and just isn't all that obnoxious. My radio gets drowned out when the dc runs, but I'd say the same about as the bandsaw or any other shop machine in use. The dc is not in an enclosure and is on the provided wheel set (no added framework).

It's in a corner of the shop, a bit off to one side. The basement has poured concrete walls. Just like with audio speakers, where you locate it will have an effect on the perceived noise.

I also have the Laguna Air Filtration System. It seems much louder and produces mid to higher frequency noise. As it is hung from the floor joists, it does transmit to the rest of the house. I did use rubber isolators when I hung it. I have it located in the shop per recommendations but find that while it does collect a lot of ambient dust, it also seems to spread anything it misses all around the shop. I don't use it all that much. I will set the timer to run an hour or two during and post-sanding or similar operations, but not much otherwise.

 

[Michael Ogden]

I have a Laguna 3HP P-Flux dust collector in my basement workshop. Despite the added sound insulation of the P series, it is loud. Working at the airport loud. I always wear hearing protection when running it, which I can live with, but you hear this thing all over the house (even the second floor). So I've been wondering if I could find something quieter.

What is the quietest DC out there? Oneida Supercell?

I'd be willing to step down the horsepower, indeed there would be advantages to 120V power over 240V. Locating the DC outside the house, or even outside the workshop is not an option.

Any thoughts?

That Harvey GyroAir G-700 looks to be pretty quiet. A little rich for my blood.

If disturbing family/neighbors is not a factor, have you considered noise-cancelling headphones/earbuds? I recently picked up a pair of buds. They do a great job at limiting my dust collector noise. I have a generic single-stage dust collector (connected to an Oneida Super Dust Deputy cyclone).

 

[Mike Harman]

We had a noise problem in our mens shed from a noisy DC. what we did was to make sure that the machine did not touch any thing and we also put a rubber mat under the machine It is not enclosed in any bo and this reduced the noise level by half of what it was simple and effective for what we wanted. so just a suggestion put a rubber mat under the machine.
good luck

 

[Mike Novak]

I have a harbor freight 2hp DC. Pretty loud as it came stock. I have made a few low cost mods that have worked pretty well to reduce the noise level. As it is now, more noise comes out of the hose end than from the DC. Standing right next to it, my phone app says I reduced the noise from 90db to 72db. Here is what I did

1) I replaced the bag filter with a cartridge. No impact on noise, but filters to 0.3 microns

2) I added a Thein baffle. Did not reduce noise, but stopped most dust from getting to filter.

3) I built a muffler out of rolled up cardboard. It’s hot glued to the cyclone outlet and fits under the filter. It’s basically two tubes inside each other. See sketch and picture.

4) the baffle and muffler restricted airflow slightly, so I replaced the flex hose between the fan and cyclone with 3 5” duct elbows and wrapped with insulation. This resulted in more airflow than before the baffle and muffler.

5) finally, I lined a trash barrel with a heavy blanket and wedged it tightly up to the cyclone with a block of wood. This reduced the bag capacity, but I only suck chips from my bandsaw and dust from lathe. For me it’s a good trade off.

 

[Mike Novak]

Here is a pic of the inside of the barrel. As you can see, with a full barrel very little went into the filter area.

From what I have seen in other people’s shops, this works almost as good as a cabinet while still being portable.

I’m very sensitive to noise so I’m still looking for ways to make it quieter. I don’t mind when I’m at the bandsaw because that’s louder than the DC, but it would be nice to have it quieter at the lathe. It’s noisy enough that I don’t want to run it continuously at the lathe. Since it’s only pulling dust at the lathe I am considering either putting a muffler on the end of the hose or making something using just a fan and a filter.

 

[Lou Jacobs]

Just to go at the problem from another angle, a year or so ago I bought a pair of these Sound Core noise cancelling earbuds after my Apple air buds gave up the ghost. https://us.soundcore.com/products/space-a40-a3936011. I have a relatively small (21x22) shop and can’t get too far away from my Jet dust collector without moving it to an attached shed. (I don’t want to do that as the shop is on a mini split a/c and heat system, and I don’t want to suck the air outside). The earbuds have three settings from fully “transparent” (letting in outside noise) to fully noise cancelling. In noise cancelling mode I barely hear the lathe or dust collector, while being able to listen to music or podcasts, hear the phone ring, or know that I’ve received messages. Battery life is terrific. I far prefer them to the old apple product.