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Robust AB Lathe tooling/accessories vs. PM3520B

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I am considering buying a Robust AB lathe. I have a PM3520B and lots of chucks, live centers, vacuum adapter, tool posts, etc. with it.

Anyone out there made this swap? Am I correct in my assumption that the Robust AB and PM3520B can use the same accessories?
 

hockenbery

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I correct in my assumption that the Robust AB and PM3520B can use the same accessories?
The standard AB will have 1 1/4 x 8 spindle threads and #2 Morse tapers in the headstock and tailstock
These are the same as the powermatic.

The vacuum adapter depends…. Robust has its own vacuum adapter which may be the fastest to connect.
However some other vacuum setups might work.

Tool rests - depends… the post will fit the banjo. Whether it adjusts to the height you need depends on the length of the post.
I use my short robust tool rest on my ONEWAY at home and on powermatics and ABs in demos.
 
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I am a Robust dealer and have seen many many folks upgrade like you are, to the best lathe. All the accessory parts are compatible. The better lathe will be an amazing improvement and allow you to have a lot more fun in the shop. The engineering and workmanship of the Robust in incomparable. I have an AB ready to ship if you want some help with making the purchase with no waiting for the production run.
 
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For what it is worth, here is my opinion regarding this ongoing debate. I have a PM 3520C and I am pleased with it. I helped a fellow turner with the delivery and setup of a Robust American Beauty in October 2023. The AB took the place of a Grizzly that was a good lathe. This fellow also has a Jet lathe.
I have no complaints about any of these brands. But I can state IMHO that the AB is the top of the line.
 
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It’s been nearly 12 years since I picked up my AB - no regrets. Coming from a Jet 1640, the only things I remember needing to get new were a few tool rests ( the Jet posts were shorter, but a Robust dog leg solved that problem) any new ones are ordered with the longer post. The Oneway vac adapter was left on the Jet when sold - wouldn’t work on the AB, but I ordered theirs with the lathe and it is a work of art. At that time it was made by JT Turning Tools - now Robust manufactures themselves since Tom passed. It is easily the best adapter on the market. Setup for vac takes less than 15 seconds with my equip. We’ll worth any extra…
 
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The vacuum adapter depends…. Robust has its own vacuum adapter which may be the fastest to connect.
However some other vacuum setups might work.
FWIW, I take my Robust vacuum adapter to our club to demonstrate on our club's PM 3520B. The ID of the spindle bore is the same. The first time we used it we had to adjust the hand wheel on the Powermatic to let the adapter plug in all the way. I don't think the Powermatic had been set up correctly when it was new.
 
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I've had my AB for a couple weeks now and love it so far. Everything works as it should. I upgraded from a Nova Galaxy DVR. I was told by Robust that my tool rests would not fit as the AB is bigger but, Some of my rests are home made and the post is long enough that they work fine.
 
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Toolrest post length might be the only even small problem, but as Jeff Smith remarked, the Robust dogleg would solve that, for far less than replacements.
 
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I went from a 3520A to the Robust. Every thing stayed the same, except for the 3 hp motor. I did have Brent help me adjust the minimum speed down to about 15 rpm. This was for sanding out my warped bowls as with 50 rpm, you can't keep the abrasives on the wood. The motor runs cooler when I sand than it does when I turn. I do make my lathe work....

robo hippy
 
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I went from a 3520A to the Robust. Every thing stayed the same, except for the 3 hp motor. I did have Brent help me adjust the minimum speed down to about 15 rpm. This was for sanding out my warped bowls as with 50 rpm, you can't keep the abrasives on the wood. The motor runs cooler when I sand than it does when I turn. I do make my lathe work....

robo hippy
Reed, Was there any concern in lowering the speed to that level? I am betting it was a simple parameter change in one of the setting in the VFD/inverter.

As you would have expected, Brent confirmed my Robust tool rests that I have for my PM3520 will work fine on the American Beauty.
 
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FWIW, I take my Robust vacuum adapter to our club to demonstrate on our club's PM 3520B. The ID of the spindle bore is the same. The first time we used it we had to adjust the hand wheel on the Powermatic to let the adapter plug in all the way. I don't think the Powermatic had been set up correctly when it was new.
Thanks Tony for the confirmation. I imagined that that adapter would fit.
 
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The one concern with running at slow speeds is that the motor may overheat and destroy the motor. Brent cautioned me about that and told me to pay attention to motor heat/warmth. Well, when I am sanding, the motor runs cooler than when I turn. Pretty much no load on the motor when I sand. My 3520A also ran down to almost zero before it would turn off. With the B model, they stopped at 50 rpm, and that appears to be common now. I phoned PM and asked them about the reasoning behind that. The tech told me that at those speeds, "your motor will overhead and you will fry your electronics". I told the tech that I had sanded thousands of bowls at those speeds and never had any issues. The tech responded "we have run tests in our labs and your motor will overheat and you will fry your electronics". My Vicmark 240 runs down to almost zero in low speed range. It is the only other lathe out there that I know of that goes down that far. Not sure about the Oneway, which is the only other 3 speed lathe out there that I know of. The thing with those slow speeds is that no one uses them for turning. For sanding, and some times applying finish, but again, the motor is in a no load/idle work load.

robo hippy
 
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The one concern with running at slow speeds is that the motor may overheat and destroy the motor. Brent cautioned me about that and told me to pay attention to motor heat/warmth. Well, when I am sanding, the motor runs cooler than when I turn. Pretty much no load on the motor when I sand. My 3520A also ran down to almost zero before it would turn off. With the B model, they stopped at 50 rpm, and that appears to be common now. I phoned PM and asked them about the reasoning behind that. The tech told me that at those speeds, "your motor will overhead and you will fry your electronics". I told the tech that I had sanded thousands of bowls at those speeds and never had any issues. The tech responded "we have run tests in our labs and your motor will overheat and you will fry your electronics". My Vicmark 240 runs down to almost zero in low speed range. It is the only other lathe out there that I know of that goes down that far. Not sure about the Oneway, which is the only other 3 speed lathe out there that I know of. The thing with those slow speeds is that no one uses them for turning. For sanding, and some times applying finish, but again, the motor is in a no load/idle work load.

robo hippy
Reed, my experience with PM techs is poor at best! I am betting Brent at Robust is an order of magnitude better. From what I have read, his customers seem to all be satisfied. My dealings with them thus far have been excellent but that is just the purchasing process. I do expect it to remain excellent though.

I do know that on a VFD controlled variable speed metal lathe I have, the common practice iss to stay above 15 hz and use the lathe's gear box to achieve low speeds. The Hitachi VFD in this case is quite robust and I believe the advice on the lower frequency range had to do with motor cooling (spelled Taiwanese motor) and not the electronics. EDIT: BTW, this is in machining/loaded mode, not jog or a scenario with no load.
 
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The Hitachi VFD in this case is quite robust and I believe the advice on the lower frequency range had to do with motor cooling (spelled Taiwanese motor) and not the electronics.
The lower the frequency the lower the speed and the lower the cooling capacity of the fan on the motor. This has been the advice for as long as VFD's have been sold and at one time several motor manufacturers made a higher quality motors just to address that problem. The problem is mostly with industrial applications where a machine may be run at a low rate of speed for many hours or days.
About 10 years ago I retrofitted a 2 HP motor & VFD on my wood lathe and saved myself $100.00 by buying a Chinese motor instead of a Baldor and so far the only problem has been the fan end bearing went bad.
 
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Alan I made the switch from a 3520b to an AB a few years ago. Nothing wrong with a powermatic but the AB is a wonderful machine. If you didn't order the swing away tailstock I would certainly try to talk you into it. It is the smoothest most flawless piece of engineering ever. It is a joy to use.
 
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I think the only time Brent has a sale is the last day of a show so he doesn't have to pack it up and ship it back home... He is a private business owner, and they generally do not have sales... You may be able to save shipping costs if you pick it up at a show like the AAW Symposium this summer in Portland, OR.

robo hippy.
 
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Reed, Was there any concern in lowering the speed to that level? I am betting it was a simple parameter change in one of the setting in the VFD/inverter.

As you would have expected, Brent confirmed my Robust tool rests that I have for my PM3520 will work fine on the American Beauty.
I would guess with no load, there would be no heat buildup. I programmed my Problematic to run very slow and I miss that with my Robust. I might need to look into making that change.
 
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I was at a guys house who had a huge homemade lathe that was very well built. His forte was very large hollow forms, 24-36' diameter. He would put a layer of penetrating epoxy on with the lathe running but the lowest speed was too fast. He had attached a pulley on the end of his hand wheel and had a small gear reduced motor that hung on a bracket on the wall. He would simply loop a long fan belt on both pulleys and turn it on and the vessel would rotate slowly. I'm pretty sure that he does his sanding the same way.
I'm not suggesting this as an idea do, I just thought it was a very inventive solution for his purposes.
 
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I think the only time Brent has a sale is the last day of a show so he doesn't have to pack it up and ship it back home... He is a private business owner, and they generally do not have sales... You may be able to save shipping costs if you pick it up at a show like the AAW Symposium this summer in Portland, OR.

robo hippy.
I arranged to pick mine up at the AAW Symposium - it was the floor display. Brent had it wired with Quick connectors where possible to make tear down and reassembly easier. A covered U-Haul trailer hauled it in one piece, securely tied in place. Saved over $700 in shipping costs (that was 12 years ago). I did need to remove the headstock to get it out of the trailer - the connectors helped a bunch, but I wished I had added the caster set for it. I wound up buying a set when we moved a few years ago…they do come in handy.
And…don’t scrimp on the tilt-away - I had no idea it would be so incredibly indispensable in use. It is money we’ll spent.
 
Joined
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Calgary, CA
I am a Robust dealer and have seen many many folks upgrade like you are, to the best lathe. All the accessory parts are compatible. The better lathe will be an amazing improvement and allow you to have a lot more fun in the shop. The engineering and workmanship of the Robust in incomparable. I have an AB ready to ship if you want some help with making the purchase with no waiting for the production run.

40 years ago. most professionals used General 260 lathes. They switched to the large Oneway lathes when they appeared. Now it seems they are switching to Robust. Why?
 
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For me, the choice between the Robust and the Oneway was that the Robust has a sliding headstock. I never could adapt to turning bowls on or in long bed lathe position. Only real advantage I can think of that the Oneway now has is that it has 3 speed ranges, and I think the minimum speed is in the 10 rpm range, which is necessary for me to sand out my warped bowls. If I was younger, I would design and build my own lathe. Kind of a cross between the Vicmark and the Robust. My Robust does go down to almost 15 rpm, and Brent helped me change the parameters on my Beauty. A sliding headstock just works best for me.

robo hippy
 

hockenbery

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never could adapt to turning bowls on or in long bed lathe position.
ONEWAY has several options for stand in front bowl turning.
17” outboard bed on the long bed lathes
The ONEWAY 2416 is a great bowl lathe. Swing the tailstock away and you can hollow a bowl standing in front of it.
 
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I have a Nova Galaxy that has a sliding and swivelling headstock. I have set the headstock about 6" in from the end to accommodate a small tray for chuck wrenches etc.
Otherwise I have never made use of either feature. I suppose I might when I get older (hell, I'm already old!).
I wanted a Oneway but my workshop is in the basement and it would have been impossible to get it down there.
 
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I have a Nova Galaxy that has a sliding and swivelling headstock. I have set the headstock about 6" in from the end to accommodate a small tray for chuck wrenches etc.
Otherwise I have never made use of either feature. I suppose I might when I get older (hell, I'm already old!).
I wanted a Oneway but my workshop is in the basement and it would have been impossible to get it down there.
I purchased the Nebula for two reasons: sliding headstock and the dial speed adjustment. Haven't used the sliding headstock yet but the dial speed control is nice to have.
 
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Let us know when you get it what you think.

FYI - I made the exact same upgrade and have never looked back. Great lathe and equally great company.
Rick, the machine arrived last week. It is a long bed American Beauty. It appears to be extremely well built and it is HEAVY.

It was next to impossible get it off the truck. It took over 45 minutes of pushing and shoving.

I have had very little chance to use it but what I have done it mostly exceeds my expectations. I love the headstock not being in the way like my Powermatic. One shortcoming for me is that I miss my speed indicator on the Powermatic in a big way. I am hoping to solve that problem in some fashion in the coming months.

I have no buyer's remorse.
 
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Rick, the machine arrived last week. It is a long bed American Beauty. It appears to be extremely well built and it is HEAVY.

It was next to impossible get it off the truck. It took over 45 minutes of pushing and shoving.

I have had very little chance to use it but what I have done it mostly exceeds my expectations. I love the headstock not being in the way like my Powermatic. One shortcoming for me is that I miss my speed indicator on the Powermatic in a big way. I am hoping to solve that problem in some fashion in the coming months.

I have no buyer's remorse.
Congrats Alan!

On the speed indicator, I thought I'd miss it too but have adjusted to turning without. That said, call Brent at AB. There are a couple folks in our club that have the ABs and have added tachometers. I think Brent helped them figure it out.
 
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Congrats Alan!

On the speed indicator, I thought I'd miss it too but have adjusted to turning without. That said, call Brent at AB. There are a couple folks in our club that have the ABs and have added tachometers. I think Brent helped them figure it out.
Rick, I am working on a couple of solutions. I did speak to Brent about it before I bought it and he didn't offer anything specific. He did give me some technical info I asked for.
No digital readout, but a perfectly adequate rpm indicator on the speed dial.
Tom, did you confirm it with a handheld tach? Of course we are turning wood and not metal, so spot on accuracy is not that big of a deal.
 
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Rick, the machine arrived last week. It is a long bed American Beauty. It appears to be extremely well built and it is HEAVY.

It was next to impossible get it off the truck. It took over 45 minutes of pushing and shoving.

I have had very little chance to use it but what I have done it mostly exceeds my expectations. I love the headstock not being in the way like my Powermatic. One shortcoming for me is that I miss my speed indicator on the Powermatic in a big way. I am hoping to solve that problem in some fashion in the coming months.

I have no buyer's remorse.
I had no issue getting it off the truck with our skid steer. However, the carrier had informed me that they could have brought it with a lift gate truck the next day.
 
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Rick, I am working on a couple of solutions. I did speak to Brent about it before I bought it and he didn't offer anything specific. He did give me some technical info I asked for.

Tom, did you confirm it with a handheld tach? Of course we are turning wood and not metal, so spot on accuracy is not that big of a deal.
No, I did not. I can't see any need for confirmation other that the fact that my machine was built and sold here in the US by a very reputable company. Brent would not have added the speed dial with the RPM indicators if it wasn't good.
What kind of project requires such extreme accuracy?
 
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Rick, I am working on a couple of solutions. I did speak to Brent about it before I bought it and he didn't offer anything specific. He did give me some technical info I asked for.

Tom, did you confirm it with a handheld tach? Of course we are turning wood and not metal, so spot on accuracy is not that big of a deal.
There was a thread, maybe 2, on DIY tachometer installation about 1-2 years ago here on the forum. Do a search and you can learn how simple it is to do.
 
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I had no issue getting it off the truck with our skid steer. However, the carrier had informed me that they could have brought it with a lift gate truck the next day.
They brought it via an 18 wheeler with a lift gate. Was still an enormous issue to handle a box made for a forklift with long forks vs. a standard pallet jack.
 
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They brought it via an 18 wheeler with a lift gate. Was still an enormous issue to handle a box made for a forklift with long forks vs. a standard pallet jack.
I had standard forks on the skid steer and the truck driver just had standard pallet jack to move it to the back of the trailer. I had to carry it with the skid steer couple hundred yards to the shop. No way to get a big truck in there.
 
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