Segmented turning angle jigs

[John Lowder]

I am interested in getting into segmented turning. To simplify cutting of segments, I would like to use fabricated angle jigs. In my research, I have seen aluminum angle jigs but I can no locate a source now that I am interested in buying. Can someone assist with a source?

 

[Dick Sowa]

You will likely get plenty of comments. So here's mine. Don't waste your money on buying a cutoff jig. You can make one with scrap you already have in the shop.

I have 4 sliding jigs I have made for my table saw...all from scrap plywood and a few strips of hardwood. They are fine tuned to nearly perfect angles for each of 8, 10, 16 and 24 segments. Some folks prefer a single, multi-purpose jig, but for the cost and effort, I think a single purpose jig, set to a specific angle, works just fine. Once you have the fence set to the right angle, screw it down and you can forget it.

Many will also tell you that even after cutting the segments, you will still need to fine tune the surfaces with a disc sander. There really is no other way to get the perfect fit.

There are lots and lots of cutoff jigs on the web...do a Google search and you will find plenty. Here's one of mine: http://semiww.org/wiki/doku.php/members/segmented_bowl_table_saw_sled

And then, go out and buy (or get from your local library), Malcolm Tibbetts book, The Art of Segmented Wood Turning, a Step-by-Step Guide...money well spent. He shows several methods of cutting segments.

 

[Richard Baker]

You will likely get plenty of comments. So here's mine. Don't waste your money on buying a cutoff jig. You can make one with scrap you already have in the shop.

I have 4 sliding jigs I have made for my table saw...all from scrap plywood and a few strips of hardwood. They are fine tuned to nearly perfect angles for each of 8, 10, 16 and 24 segments. Some folks prefer a single, multi-purpose jig, but for the cost and effort, I think a single purpose jig, set to a specific angle, works just fine. Once you have the fence set to the right angle, screw it down and you can forget it.

Many will also tell you that even after cutting the segments, you will still need to fine tune the surfaces with a disc sander. There really is no other way to get the perfect fit.

And then, go out and buy (or get from your local library), Malcolm Tibbetts book, The Art of Segmented Wood Turning, a Step-by-Step Guide...money well spent. He shows several methods of cutting segments.

Ditto what Dick said, mostly. No need to disc sand each segment if you use a sharp, fine tooth blade, but may need to hand sand a bit of fuzz off the bottom of each. Glue up to half rings and sand the half ring ends flat to remove slight angular error. Have glued many full rings with single glue-up, and/but still believe it is best to do half rings and sand a bit. Also best to buy Malcolm's book first, available on Amazon.

 

[robo hippy]

I got to see Malcolm just about a week ago. WOW!!! I don't do segmented, well, at least not yet, but it was really interesting. He does all his cutting with a chop saw (Festool), and when you see the set up, you realize it makes a lot of sence. I can't really explain it though.
robo hippy

 

[Richard Baker]

Yeah, it's a new saw. Read that he no longer sands individual segments and has a technique for gang-cutting segments.

 

[john lucas]

I've tried most of the systems but none of my saws are really that great so there is always some error. I did try saving scrapes from set ups. It made sense. You do a series of tests and when you get you angle dead on you cut a test triangle out of hardboard or MDF and save that. I did and proudly set my saw up the next time using my custom triangles. It didn't work. I was still off just a hair. I had to assume it was just the inaccuracies of not using a good blade etc.
On less expensive saws like mine, everything you do affect accuracy. The jig you use, how sharp the blade is, and even feed rate all seem to affect the accuracy.
So far the best thing I've done is to make a jig that rides in both miter slots. This reduced the slop to about 0 from the jig twisting. Then I made an adustable fence that has a sort of micrometer adjustment using a fine thread bolt that can be adjusted to move the fence in very small increments. Then I put a brass pin in the 0 degree point and another brass pin on the adjustable fence. Now when I get the fence adjusted accurately for however many segments I'm doing, I simply measure between the pins with a dial caliper and write it down. Now I can adjust this fence to within a thousandth or so every time I need to repeat than number of segments.
The problem with glueing up half rings and then fine tuning them to fit is that it can through off patterns that have to be aligned perfectly. I will still do this method sometimes since my saw just isn't up to the task of cutting extremely accurate all the time. I will usually check the rings at 45,90 and 180 and correct as I go if I have to. This has proven more accurate than just checking them at 180.
I'm saving for a Forrest blade and hopping that will improve my repeatablilty. When you are doing 36sided rings there isn't any room for slop at all.

 

[robert davis]

You will likely get plenty of comments. So here's mine. Don't waste your money on buying a cutoff jig. You can make one with scrap you already have in the shop.

I have 4 sliding jigs I have made for my table saw...all from scrap plywood and a few strips of hardwood. They are fine tuned to nearly perfect angles for each of 8, 10, 16 and 24 segments. Some folks prefer a single, multi-purpose jig, but for the cost and effort, I think a single purpose jig, set to a specific angle, works just fine. Once you have the fence set to the right angle, screw it down and you can forget it.

Many will also tell you that even after cutting the segments, you will still need to fine tune the surfaces with a disc sander. There really is no other way to get the perfect fit.

There are lots and lots of cutoff jigs on the web...do a Google search and you will find plenty. Here's one of mine: http://semiww.org/wiki/doku.php/members/segmented_bowl_table_saw_sled

And then, go out and buy (or get from your local library), Malcolm Tibbetts book, The Art of Segmented Wood Turning, a Step-by-Step Guide...money well spent. He shows several methods of cutting segments.

also check kevin neely web site.

 

[Richard Baker]

Mostly ditto what John Lucas said. Even with a fresh 80-tooth Freud blade, one ring may be virtually perfect and the next from segments cut in the same session will be off just a hair. If you mark the joint where each pair of half rings is glued together and align these (half segment left and right, etc.) as you build the piece, the pattern alignment can be kept nearly "perfect". If your saw cuts are very close to "correct", only a little material will be removed when squaring the ends of half rings.

 

[Jim Curlee]

Segments can only be as accurate as the table saw and sled. If the saw is not dialed in perfect and tight you'll have problems, same goes for the sled. I use a $600 contractor saw and sleds designed from Kevins site http://www.turnedwood.com/framesled.html My segments are normally perfect off the saw. However, wood movement in the sled base or runners is enough to cause small problems. In my experience the more man made material you use for the sled the better off you are.

 

[georgetroy]

I think best results come from your saw strips being 4 square. That means your strips will be the same width on your lengths and each edge must be 90deg. No warps. I use sanding jigs for best results and band or hose clamps to get a dead true circle. I have holding jigs for the wedges and can use my miter saw, table saw or band saw for cuts before sanding. A drum sander will help with getting your thickness of strips to within .001. Digital or dial calipers is a must.

 

[Richard R. Steussy]

Segmented Bowl Jigs

I agree that Malcolm Tibbetts has probably the best book on segmented bowl turning--although Ray Allen also has very good info in his book. When I do a segmented bowl, I use Malcolm's ideas to a point--for example, I like the hose clamp idea, but I don't go for the rubber bands. I use the ceiling clamp to align the segments, but I use a rubber mallet to further align them. I do not use a table saw, but like to use my radial-arm saw to cut the segments with a jig I designed myself. It only has four pieces and my accuracy (again, depending on whether the saw in perfect tune) is such I seldom need to sand before assembly. I'm with Malcolm in that it's easier (and I believe safer) to cut segments with a chop saw (or radial) than on a table saw.

 

[dennis bland]

segmented bowl jigs

I started doing segmenting a year ago, every day I experiment with something or another to improve the accuracy of the angle which to me is the hardest thing to achieve . I bought a Wixey digital angle gauge a few months ago ($40) it makes a saw blade angle dead on, any angle. If somebody would make a digital gauge like that to get the miter dead on segment cutting would be greatly improved.
Keep experimenting and listening to the folks above they are great teachers .

 

[massmans]

Here is what I plan to use to get my miter angles lined up.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=19670&filter=digital

 

[RickStanley]

Using a Jointer to fine tune the angle

I'm a newbie with limited equipment and would like to give a try at a segmented bowl. I don't have a table saw but do have a 14" bandsaw and a small 4" jointer. I thought I'd construct a simple mitre gauge for my bandsaw to rough cut the angles on the bandsaw and then use another set of jigs (one for each angle) to support the piece on end at the proper angle on the jointer table so that I can fine tune the angle there using light cuts and also clean up the end of the piece at the same time. I'm thinking that this jointer jig would hold the piece at the proper angle and would have the piece lead the jig base/slider some distance so that the jig base always stays on the feed bed and the piece would move across the cutter to the catch bed. Has anyone tried this? Sounds like it'd work, but what do I know...

 

[Richard Baker]

Rick,
Don't use the jointer! It is not intended to cut end grain or short pieces, and its use for this purpose may cause accident or injury. While your proposal may be theoretically feasible, it is unlikely to succeed. Lacking a disc sander, you can make a simple jig to hand sand the glue surfaces flat and smooth. Attach the edges of two smooth boards at a 90 degree angle to form an "L" about 12" long. Attach 80 grit paper to the vertical board, slide segments on horizontal board against paper on vertical board. You may be able to design a guide of some kind to establish the correct angle. Do not use the jointer. You can glue up to half rings and use the same technique to sand ends of half rings flat.

 

[Vernon Oberle]

Curt Theobald

I also like Curt's dvd's. He uses the sander more than Malcolm. I have tried just about all the methods and get better fitting joints by a light sanding and making sure to get rid of the fuzzies on the edges. These can be a great source of misalignment and poor joints.

Vernon

 

[Vaughn]

...I bought a Wixey digital angle gauge a few months ago ($40) it makes a saw blade angle dead on, any angle. If somebody would make a digital gauge like that to get the miter dead on segment cutting would be greatly improved...

You already have the technology.

Clamp your miter gauge vertically in a vise, then attach the Wixey to the miter bar and zero it out. Then, place the Wixey on the miter gauge fence and adjust to the angle you need.

 

[sam pretswell]

John Lowder

I am interested in getting into segmented turning. To simplify cutting of segments, I would like to use fabricated angle jigs. In my research, I have seen aluminum angle jigs but I can no locate a source now that I am interested in buying. Can someone assist with a source?

Dear John

Try Sue Harker she makes and sells good jigs plus dvd.Her Website www.sueharker@tiscali.co.uk
If you want I will send you the dvd and you can return when finished.I will need your address. Regards Sam
My website is.sspretswell@aol.com
or sampretswell@hotmail.co.uk

 

[sam pretswell]

segment jigs

I am interested in getting into segmented turning. To simplify cutting of segments, I would like to use fabricated angle jigs. In my research, I have seen aluminum angle jigs but I can no locate a source now that I am interested in buying. Can someone assist with a source?

John I sent you information on jigs two days ago plus an offer to lend you a dvd. I dont seem to have a reply.You can contact me at these address,

sampretswell@hotmail,co.uk

sspretswell@aol.com