I have a natural edge oak bowl that I dyed and put liming wax on. I removed the excess wax with a Doctor's walnut oil/microcrystalline wax mix. As it is not a utility bowl, I'd like to seal the surface. My plan is to spray a clear acrylic on it. Will there be a problem with the acrylic adhering to the surface? Thanks.
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Spray Acrylic Over Oil
- Thread starter Ed Weingarden
- Start date
Very hard to completely remove wax from wood. I wouldn't give it much of a chance of sticking. What did you use to remove the Doctor's mix? A completed piece is not a good place to experiment with finish. A scrap piece of wood is so much better.
“The die is cast”.
The time for finish choices is before anything goes on.
doctors woodshop finish is beautiful and stands up well to casual handling, works beautifully for a display piece.
Really, not good to try to change direction midstream.
The time for finish choices is before anything goes on.
doctors woodshop finish is beautiful and stands up well to casual handling, works beautifully for a display piece.
Really, not good to try to change direction midstream.
I use shellac on pieces that have a fully cured oil finish and use it all the time following Yorkshire grit abrasive paste, which has wax in it. Shellac sticks to anything, easy to apply and if you want something later most anything will stick to shellac. I usually rub on four coats of shellac, about 30 minutes between coats and lightly sand with 600 after second and third coat.
I think Randy's approach will work. Would do a thorough cleaning with mineral spirits before applying the Shellac.
Ed, it varies depending on wood, temps and sunlight. Some woods it "cures" enough fairly quick - a few days. Some it takes a lot longer. I've found poplar and willow seem to take forever to really cure. By cure I mean no oily sheen on your fingers when you handle it and to be sure you can place it on a piece of computer printer paper overnight. If there's an oil ring then maybe let it cure more. Warmth and sunlight help a lot in the curing process so this time of year I give it 3-4 days in my shop. When no oil sheen on my fingers I move on to finishing with shellac. All that said, I don't think shellac is finicky at all about what it goes on. I usually put shellac on the next day when all I've used is Yorkshire grit paste.
When rubbing shellac on I put a few drops of mineral oil on my application pad then put shellac on and rub it on the piece. The mineral oil doesn't impact the shellac and it helps the pad glide on the surface to give a much nicer shine. Counterintuitive to put oil on the pad and then shellac and rub on but, it's what I picked up from watching the furniture guys online.
Also, most store bought shellac has wax in it. You can buy or mix your own dewaxed shellac which is what I do. I use it for my go to finish where I want a glossy finish.
When rubbing shellac on I put a few drops of mineral oil on my application pad then put shellac on and rub it on the piece. The mineral oil doesn't impact the shellac and it helps the pad glide on the surface to give a much nicer shine. Counterintuitive to put oil on the pad and then shellac and rub on but, it's what I picked up from watching the furniture guys online.
Also, most store bought shellac has wax in it. You can buy or mix your own dewaxed shellac which is what I do. I use it for my go to finish where I want a glossy finish.
dye, liming wax, Doctor's mix, now shellac on a natural edge piece. Getting a good distance away from natural now! LOL
Thanks Randy