Turning injury

[odie]

Funny you mention that actually. This morning I was thinking about wrapping the handles in hockey tape. I've done that on my clamp handles and it's a major increase in grip.

I've been wrapping my turning tools with hockey tape for about three decades!......really does help with the grip, but the wrinkles caused by varying diameters in the handle, make it look like a sloppy duct tape repair job! No problem, nobody cares!

There is a reason why those hockey players wrap their hockey sticks with this stuff.....and, you just have to try it to find out why. A roll is only a few bucks, if you buy several rolls at a whack. I've tried several brands, but the Renfrew brand seems to be the best overall.....

Oh, BTW......I occasionally put the turning tool under my arm, and can't recall dropping it from there.......I suspect the hockey tape might have something to do with it.... (Not that I've never dropped a turning tool, but that's just plain old carelessness!)

-----odie-----

Click on the photo and click it again for a closeup view.

 

[Richard Morgan]

Thanks Odie, I think I'll have to get some hockey tape asap. No injuries form slippery handles yet but handles do get slippery.

 

[Emiliano Achaval]

I have seen that same injury before, lots of blood. Get well soon.

 

[David Wrate]

I've been wrapping my turning tools with hockey tape for about three decades!......really does help with the grip, but the wrinkles caused by varying diameters in the handle, make it look like a sloppy duct tape repair job! No problem, nobody cares!

There is a reason why those hockey players wrap their hockey sticks with this stuff.....and, you just have to try it to find out why. A roll is only a few bucks, if you buy several rolls at a whack. I've tried several brands, but the Renfrew brand seems to be the best overall.....

Oh, BTW......I occasionally put the turning tool under my arm, and can't recall dropping it from there.......I suspect the hockey tape might have something to do with it.... (Not that I've never dropped a turning tool, but that's just plain old carelessness!)

-----odie-----

Click on the photo and click it again for a closeup view.
View attachment 48782

Thanks Odie, I just looked and I'm out of tape so time to get some more.

 

[David Wrate]

I have seen that same injury before, lots of blood. Get well soon.

Thanks Emiliano. I'm doing much better.

 

[odie]

While we're on the subject, here is a Richard Raffan video where he has an injury at 22:22......big catch! Throughout the rest of the video, he has his fingers wrapped as a constant reminder.....not sure that was his plan!

Actually he had two big catches in the video. I found it interesting how he continued and completed the bowl. We all have our preferences, and I might have transitioned to a scraper sooner than he did for the interior.

One thing I did take away from this video, is using a pencil to mark a particular place that needs attention, and rotating by hand to get the full circle with the pencil mark....that way it's easy to identify when you bring your lathe up to speed. I have a laser pointer held on a magnetic stand used for a dial indicator. This works pretty good, but it is too much of a hassle to set it up. Raffan's simple pencil technique is better.

(Raffan's first book and vhs video, were great inspirations to me personally, and I consider him to be my great spiritual guru when I was a newbie!.....highly recommended. )

-----odie-----

View: https://youtu.be/jFLEtrAlazs

 

[David Wrate]

While we're on the subject, here is a Richard Raffan video where he has an injury at 22:22......big catch! Throughout the rest of the video, he has his fingers wrapped as a constant reminder.....not sure that was his plan!

Actually he had two big catches in the video. I found it interesting how he continued and completed the bowl. We all have our preferences, and I might have transitioned to a scraper sooner than he did for the interior.

One thing I did take away from this video, is using a pencil to mark a particular place that needs attention, and rotating by hand to get the full circle with the pencil mark....that way it's easy to identify when you bring your lathe up to speed. I have a laser pointer held on a magnetic stand used for a dial indicator. This works pretty good, but it is too much of a hassle to set it up. Raffan's simple pencil technique is better.

(Raffan's first book and vhs video, were great inspirations to me personally, and I consider him to be my great spiritual guru when I was a newbie!.....highly recommended. )

-----odie-----

View: https://youtu.be/jFLEtrAlazs

I've not made anything with that form but I think I would have moved to a scraper earlier too.
One thing that I found sort of odd was that he didn't cut the ends off the blank at the bandsaw. I would have thought it would be easier to start with something that was closer to round than have to turn it off. Soft'ish wood mind you but still...

 

[odie]

You know, many turners use nothing but straight tool rests, and in the video, I was very "tuned in" to the sounds the lathe was making. The further you hang the tool over the rest, the more prone the cut is going to have a high intensity vibration.....one you can distinguish from the sound it makes. This is a good reason the curved interior rests are a bit better, simply because the tool doesn't have to extend as much. In this particular bowl, I'm not sure how much that would help, because the opening is fairly small, and it appears he was using a Robust straight rest. The Robust rest may not have as much maneuverability in this instance because of the way it's manufactured. A rest like the interior rest made by Oneway might have been better in this particular case......closer to the cut, and the rest extends a little better into a smaller opening because if how it's made.

Hope you don't mind that I'm morphing into a more general turning discussion, @David Wrate

-----odie-----

 

[David Wrate]

You know, many turners use nothing but straight tool rests, and in the video, I was very "tuned in" to the sounds the lathe was making. The further you hang the tool over the rest, the more prone the cut is going to have a high intensity vibration.....one you can distinguish from the sound it makes. This is a good reason the curved interior rests are a bit better, simply because the tool doesn't have to extend as much. In this particular bowl, I'm not sure how much that would help, because the opening is fairly small, and it appears he was using a Robust straight rest. The Robust rest may not have as much maneuverability in this instance because of the way it's manufactured. A rest like the interior rest made by Oneway might have been better in this particular case......closer to the cut, and the rest extends a little better into a smaller opening because if how it's made.

Hope you don't mind that I'm morphing into a more general turning discussion, @David Wrate

-----odie-----

Don't mind a bit @odie

 

[Dave Landers]

I've not made anything with that form but I think I would have moved to a scraper earlier too.
One thing that I found sort of odd was that he didn't cut the ends off the blank at the bandsaw. I would have thought it would be easier to start with something that was closer to round than have to turn it off. Soft'ish wood mind you but still...

Meh. Small-ish piece. Lathes are good at "round" - bandsaws less so.
If you notice, he starts by taking the corners off the bottom of the bowl, which you have to do even if you rounded it on the bandsaw. OK, if it starts round-ish there's less corner. But by the time he got the corners off, it was mostly round anyway.

That said, for me, with larger pieces I do a bit more on the bandsaw - IF I can do it safely (there's a flat and I can cut what I want with that flat on the saw table). For a piece without a flat (or without a flat perpendicular to the cut I would want to make), it's (IMO) much easier and safer to mount it on the lathe (no matter if you're using a chuck, faceplate, screw, or between centers).

The above is worth, at most, $0.02 (US)

 

[hockenbery]

One thing that I found sort of odd was that he didn't cut the ends off the blank at the bandsaw. I would have thought it would be easier to start with something that was closer to round than have to turn it off

On a small piece it is a lot faster and easier to rough the square to round and with a big lathe there is little vibration.
I turn a lot of NE bowls from square half logs. If I’m doing a demo I always round the ends on a bandsaw. - it is really easy to cut the corners free because they are hard to see and feel with the lathe at decent speed. Wouldn’t risk sending a 1” corner triangle into the audience. I rarely send a corner flying in the shop and I probably wouldn’t in a demo but I can’t cut through a corner that isn’t there. lighting in most demos is poor ..
Raffan turns the corner off from the other side. Still easy to cut the corner free or break one off.

 

[odie]

That said, for me, with larger pieces I do a bit more on the bandsaw - IF I can do it safely (there's a flat and I can cut what I want with that flat on the saw table). For a piece without a flat (or without a flat perpendicular to the cut I would want to make), it's (IMO) much easier and safer to mount it on the lathe (no matter if you're using a chuck, faceplate, screw, or between centers).

Dave.....

As you say, it's easier to take the piece to the lathe to bring corners to round. In some cases that is certainly true. In other cases, the number of teeth per inch on the bandsaw blade is a critical element. Even if the surface of the blank that mates to the bandsaw table is not perfectly flat, a bandsaw blade with 8, 10, 12 teeth per inch is much more controllable when the piece rocks a little bit on the bandsaw table. Even so, it's advisable to true up the stability of the blank by attaching wedges that artificially level up the blank's mating surface to the bandsaw table.

With the dense hardwoods I use frequently, bringing a severely out-of-round blank to round on the lathe is nearly without exception, a very difficult and risky task. As it was seen in the video, that would be a very hazardous thing to attempt with woods with high levels of Janka hardness.

Even with softer woods, I don't bother to change the bandsaw blade to a standard 3-tooth. With more teeth per inch, the only drawback is the cut proceeds a little slower than it would have with the more aggressive 3-tooth BS blade.....and, much less hazardous.

-----odie-----

 

[David Wrate]

One of the reasons I dropped my gouge was because I was juggling the gauge I made to set the stick out for my Varigrind jig.
I made a new depth gauge today. Sticks onto the Wolverine arm with neodymium magnets.
Works great.