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Which should I keep 4224b or 3520a

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I’m a furniture maker and am just getting into turning. I have a 3520a with a 60” and 18” extension. I believe this is made in the states.

I also just got a 4224b.

My question is which one should I keep?

Matt
 

hockenbery

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It depends on what you plan on turning.

I know you don’t plan on turning 23” diameter bowls so the 3520 has enough swing for your needs.

I’ve turned on both machines. If I didn’t need the weight or the swing I’d keep the 3520.
My preference is : To me the 3520 is a more comfortable machine to turn on.
I find the 4224 kludgy. It takes 2 hands to position the banjo even with a dose of wd 40.

If you want to do a lot of off center turnings the extra weight of the 4224 would be appreciated - however with the extra beds on the 3520 it might outweigh the big boy.

Also some of the first 3520s that were made in the US used pinch nuts in the tool rest lock like th C uses.
 
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The 3520 is only 2hp. Is that an issue?

No, only if you're trying to hog out cuts on a large diameter piece. Powermatic was no help at all. (repeatedly stalling and suggesting it was the problem of anything but their machine) By the time I consulted a local electric motor shop (who pointed out it was a 6A motor would never make 3hp) I was well beyond any warranty. :confused:
 
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I don't think you can answer your question without knowing what you're going to turn. If, as a furniture maker, you're only going to make table legs on your lathe, the length of the base 3520 is just a tiny bit short, so that would make your choice easy. Since your 3520 has extensions, you're stuck with a dilemma.

For someone with a large shop, the biggest difference between the two is the ability to turn larger diameter pieces on the 4224. The 3520 will make bowls larger than your family will want, so what would you turn bigger than that? If you think there are some things, then maybe you keep the 4224. If you plan to make architectural pieces, like columns, newel posts, or flag poles, then the extra bed length of the extensions makes the 3520 with extensions the winner.

The clamp on the banjo is another fairly important difference between the two. The screw clamp on most 3520s tends to come lose at times, usually at an unfortunate time, and then the tool rest pivots to contact the wood. Not good. The clamp on the 4224 is a different style, that doesn't loosen, but it's a PITA if you change tool rests often, as the grippers down inside tend to slide together preventing you from easily inserting the post. Pick your annoyance.
 
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Keep the big one. Turning small things on a large lathe is possible. Turning large things on a small lathe can be problematic.
 
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I would take the 3520A. Main reason is the minimum speed is close to 0 rpm. I need that for sanding my warped bowls. When they went to the B model, minimum speed is 50 rpm, which is too fast for warped bowls. When bowl turning on the A model, I kept it in low range. Coring was a problem in the high speed range and it would trip the breaker on the lathe. Low speed range, no problem. Other than that, having the extra throw/diameter option can work, if you have a market for big bowls and hollow forms. 2 hp is not an issue, and the 3520 has plenty of power/torque for bowls. I turned on one for almost 10 years.

robo hippy
 

RichColvin

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Doesn’t the 4224b have a vacuum system built in?
 
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I would take the 3520A. Main reason is the minimum speed is close to 0 rpm. I need that for sanding my warped bowls. When they went to the B model, minimum speed is 50 rpm, which is too fast for warped bowls. When bowl turning on the A model, I kept it in low range. Coring was a problem in the high speed range and it would trip the breaker on the lathe. Low speed range, no problem. Other than that, having the extra throw/diameter option can work, if you have a market for big bowls and hollow forms. 2 hp is not an issue, and the 3520 has plenty of power/torque for bowls. I turned on one for almost 10 years.

robo hippy

Any of them can be set near zero with a VFD parameter adjustment. I set my 4224 down to about 6 rpm.

For me, it was a sort of difficult decision to give it up. My American Beauty has a much length capacity, I thought about keeping it, but it seemed a shame to have it just sit. I ended up donating it to a local non-profit that has set up a community workshop. They're not only training young people in their program, but also seniors in the nearby senior living complex. It's getting a lot of use, but I could probably squeeze in some time on it if I had a longer project I needed to do.
 
Last edited:
Joined
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I don't think you can answer your question without knowing what you're going to turn. If, as a furniture maker, you're only going to make table legs on your lathe, the length of the base 3520 is just a tiny bit short, so that would make your choice easy. Since your 3520 has extensions, you're stuck with a dilemma.

For someone with a large shop, the biggest difference between the two is the ability to turn larger diameter pieces on the 4224. The 3520 will make bowls larger than your family will want, so what would you turn bigger than that? If you think there are some things, then maybe you keep the 4224. If you plan to make architectural pieces, like columns, newel posts, or flag poles, then the extra bed length of the extensions makes the 3520 with extensions the winner.

The clamp on the banjo is another fairly important difference between the two. The screw clamp on most 3520s tends to come lose at times, usually at an unfortunate time, and then the tool rest pivots to contact the wood. Not good. The clamp on the 4224 is a different style, that doesn't loosen, but it's a PITA if you change tool rests often, as the grippers down inside tend to slide together preventing you from easily inserting the post. Pick your annoyance.
I’m not a fan of turned legs on furniture. So I’m more picking this up as a hobby. The only thing being a furniture maker does is afford me the space and tons of interesting off cuts.

I do think large turned pedestal bases are cool.
 
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