One thing that is very difficult to decode, even with the "decoder ring" is the carbide insert nomenclature; even after you discern what each letter stands for, in terms of shape and relief angle, these inserts are made for cutting METAL; I ordered what I thought were perfect, and only realized after they arrived that they weren't SHARP!! I suppose actually they were sharp, but not an edge that would cut wood; they must hold up longer for roughing metal with the non-razor sharp edge or something....I'm not a machinist.
The inserts for the Ci1 must be intended for a spiral cutterhead, as they are numbered, so that when you're planing a lot of really hard rough cut lumber, or hit a buried nail, you can index the cutter to expose a fresh edge. This appears to be the best source, and it seems that very similar cutters are available from multiple sources in the same size--15x15x2.5mm. I don't know positively what size are used on the ez rougher, but this must be close.
The EZ rougher is a good tool, and for its price, is worth it for most folks, but I'm a DIY kinda guy... Most people don't have an angle grinder, or the ability to drill & tap metal bar reliably and accurately. Also, one big drawback to making your own is that StainlessSteel bar is expensive. Cold rolled steel bar is very cheap, but has very obvious drawbacks. I'll be looking for PM mustard yellow industrial paint soon to keep it from rusting. I'll be posting my $25 articulated hollowing rig ala monster tool style soon.
Last edited by Nate Hawkes; 04-12-2009 at 01:48 AM.
For $55 you can make at least two of these tools. Plus you'll have 8 spare cutters left for future use.
I don't mind buying good tool but I also enjoy making it and I'd rather save money for a better lathe. (I have a crappy 1236 Jet now)
My cost was:
5/8" square stainless bar $20(shipping included) for 36"
10 cutters made by German company $35 on eBay.
I already have drill bits and taps. All you need is a hack saw and a couple of good files to make a "step" in steel bar. Then drill and tap hole. You are done!
Actually you don't even need to make a "step". Just drill and tap your steel bar.
Believe me cutters that Craig is selling are no better than cutters that I've got from three other sources. All of them C3 grade carbide and have polished surface.