Carnauba and fingerprints

[Mike R. Phillips]

I have a bowl that is finished with a danish oil and needs some wax protection.

Does buffing with Carnauba provide moisture protection without the fingerprint problem?

[Rob Wallace]

Originally Posted by Mike R. Phillips

I have a bowl that is finished with a danish oil and needs some wax protection.

Does buffing with Carnauba provide moisture protection without the fingerprint problem?

Mike:

I've never seen a perfect solution for the "fingerprint problem", but I buff with carnauba wax routinely (Beall system) and I have far less problems with this wax than I did with any form of "paste wax" (like Johnson's Furniture/Floor Wax, for example) that I used when I started turning again 17+ years ago. Renaissance Wax ("microcrystalline" wax) also does a pretty good job in reducing problems associated with fingerprints and handling pieces, particularly on glossy pieces (I use mostly sprayed lacquer on my pieces). No wax finish will provide complete "moisture protection" compared to surface film finishes (e.g. polyurethane, lacquer, epoxy), especially over "drying-oil" finishes like linseed or tung oil (...which can be components of 'danish oil'). What level of moisture protection are you attempting to achieve?

Rob Wallace

[waltben]

Originally Posted by Mike R. Phillips

I have a bowl that is finished with a danish oil and needs some wax protection.

Does buffing with Carnauba provide moisture protection without the fingerprint problem?

I don't quite understand why you think wax would protect anything. A harder wax will have less possibility of having fingerprints left when handled, but the danish oil finish won't leave any. Wax is much less water proof than danish or antique oil, but either tung oil or poly is completely water proof and fingerprint proof.

I typically sand to 1200 or even 1600 grit and then use tung oil (50/50 Waterlox Original and natural), ending up with a gloss finish that isn't shiny, is water and fingerprint proof.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I generally don't wax bowls. I either use Antique Oil or Mahoney's walnut oil. As Walt said wax is not a waterproof finish. Renaissance Wax won't leave finger prints or water spots. I only use it on decorative pieces but never on bowls.

[Steve Worcester]

Carnauba is the hardest wax, but any wax, provides no water protection. And worse, water will cause issues like ghosts and rings, but no fingerprints.
Ideally, if the poly dries hard, sand it from 600-1200/1500 and white diamond. Nice and shiny and will stay that way for a long time as long as no one cuts through the surface.

[MichaelMouse]

Originally Posted by Steve Worcester

Ideally, if the poly dries hard, sand it from 600-1200/1500 and white diamond. Nice and shiny and will stay that way for a long time as long as no one cuts through the surface.

Advice good for high-test poly finishes, not so good for the wipe-ons. Their coats are generally too thin to do anything more than buff, if you want to dull them a bit. Very easy to cut through a thin spot and find yourself with a shadow that won't go away. Only answer is to solvent off the buffing grease/wax, tooth, and re-coat.

[Steve Worcester]

Originally Posted by MichaelMouse

Advice good for high-test poly finishes, not so good for the wipe-ons. Their coats are generally too thin to do anything more than buff, if you want to dull them a bit. Very easy to cut through a thin spot and find yourself with a shadow that won't go away. Only answer is to solvent off the buffing grease/wax, tooth, and re-coat.

Yep, true. Something like Behlens salad bowl finish reacts this way. That is why I need to wipe on, wipe on, sand a bit, repeat (say 5-6 times) then buff. Never can get an off the pad finish on this and need to sand (level) and buff it.

[Royce Wallace]

I use various finishes in the oil and lacquer families. All require effort mentioned by Steve. I wax every piece-well almost all. I use a car wax. NO finger print problem: Mequires "Mirror Glaze" 26, called a "professional yellow wax. I use the paste form. Buff w/Beall system on seperate dedicated motor.

[Natty Boh]

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I haven't tried car wax. I have @ half a can of old Blue Coral wax that GM sold for years. That, and orginal Simonize, took real armpower to use. I doubt that either is available now. I'll give the Blue Coral a try.

When I wax I use Renaissance Wax for the final coat.

Lately I've ben using Mineral Oil on some small pieces. Seems to work as well as walnut oil.

[cwearing]

Over time any wax will absorb moisture and dull the finish. I recall David Ellsworth telling of a visit to a museum and observing one of his pieces he waxed in the past. It was dull and lifeless---he said he never used wax again.