Yorkshire grit vs Ack’s sanding paste

[Brandon Sloan]

I’ve had some time to use both and thought I would share my experience to help other turners who might be interested in adding a sanding paste to their repertoire.

Shipping and customer service goes to Ack’s. I’ve ordered from The Walnut Log a few times and the shipping has been a little inconsistent. The last order of Yorkshire grit took over three weeks to ship. The Ack’s shipped the next day. I’ve ordered other items from The Walnut Log that shipped quicker, so it could have been an inventory issue.

The Ack’s is very thick, I use Scott’s shop towels and the paper towels tear during application with the lathe off. With the lathe running, the paper towel catches and tears easily at first.

The Yorkshire grit goes on much easier and comes off much better. Definitely easier to use.

The finish is more matte with the Ack’s and more shiny with the Yorkshire grit. Neither affected the final finish. Both products look exactly the same, you wouldn’t be able to tell the difference if the containers were the same.

After using Ack’s for the first time, I did not look forward to using it again. Although to be fair, I gave it four chances. I just couldn’t get past the consistency, it was unpleasant to wipe it on and equally unpleasant to remove it. For that reason, Yorkshire grit is my preference.

This is just my experience and personal preference. I will say that both products worked as advertised.

 

[Bill Blasic]

Having previously reviewed Yorkshire Grit for More Woodturning Magazine I just finished a review of Ack's Abrasive Sanding Paste and Ack's Polish/Restoring Paste which I think will be in the November issue of the magazine in 20 days.

 

[john lucas]

Havent used either one and dont know when or why you would use them. Can someone explain. I've always achieved the finish I need with sandpaper unless I'm trying g for a high gloss in which case I'm finishing the finish. Then I might use automotive polishes for that final gloss. Where do these abrasive pastes fit in. Thanks.

 

[Brad Winesett]

John - Good question, I am following this thread.

 

[Joe Sheble]

I recently started using Yorkshire Grit, and my understanding of it is instead of working your way though all the grits from 120 all the way up to 1000 or more, is you stop at 320, apply sanding sealer, then use the Yorkshire Grit, it's as if you had sanded all the way up to 1000 in sandpaper. I'm sure there are other reasons to use it as well, such as it's somewhat glossy finish, but for me, it's mostly a time saver to allow me to skip a whole slew of grits, but still get a super smooth finish. It doesn't work as well on resin, I still have to climb through the higher grits after using it to get a glass like finish on the resin, but using the Beall's 3 Wheel buffer on my lathe really helps with the resin's finish. And wood too. But take my experience with a grain of salt, because I'm still learning all this stuff, and coming to grips with it.

 

[Brandon Sloan]

Havent used either one and dont know when or why you would use them. Can someone explain. I've always achieved the finish I need with sandpaper unless I'm trying g for a high gloss in which case I'm finishing the finish. Then I might use automotive polishes for that final gloss. Where do these abrasive pastes fit in. Thanks.

I use the sanding grit to save time and money. I’ve put it on pieces after sanding to 220 grit. If I want to sand past 1000 grit, I use the Yorkshire grit and then I’ll sand with 1200 and so on. I save money by not having to buy as much sand paper. The Yorkshire grit lasts a long time, it’s easy to use, and it leaves a clean scratch free surface.

I recently started using Yorkshire Grit, and my understanding of it is instead of working your way though all the grits from 120 all the way up to 1000 or more, is you stop at 320, apply sanding sealer, then use the Yorkshire Grit, it's as if you had sanded all the way up to 1000 in sandpaper. I'm sure there are other reasons to use it as well, such as it's somewhat glossy finish, but for me, it's mostly a time saver to allow me to skip a whole slew of grits, but still get a super smooth finish. It doesn't work as well on resin, I still have to climb through the higher grits after using it to get a glass like finish on the resin, but using the Beall's 3 Wheel buffer on my lathe really helps with the resin's finish. And wood too. But take my experience with a grain of salt, because I'm still learning all this stuff, and coming to grips with it.

They make a product called Yorkshire grit microfine that is specifically for resin.

 

[Brandon Sloan]

Having previously reviewed Yorkshire Grit for More Woodturning Magazine I just finished a review of Ack's Abrasive Sanding Paste and Ack's Polish/Restoring Paste which I think will be in the November issue of the magazine in 20 days.

Do you have a link to the review you did of the Yorkshire grit? I’ll be looking for your review of the Ack’s in the November issue.

 

[Joe Sheble]

They make a product called Yorkshire grit microfine that is specifically for resin.

I've used it too, but I typically sand up to 3200 before I use the microfine paste. The other issue with it since it's white in color, if you have any imperfections at all in your surface, they'll fill with white paste and it's really hard to get it out. It's caught me a few times...

 

[john lucas]

Sounds like the white automotive polish I use. The finish has to be perfect before you use it.

 

[Bill Blasic]

Brandon it is in the August issue. John I sand to 220 and then use the paste. Good enough off the tool just use 220 then paste, lots of sandpaper saved. This gives a finish pretty much like sanding to 1000 grit. For me it worked better not using the sanding sealer. It is not cheap but if you are industrious you can make your own

 

[john lucas]

Bill do you apply a finish over it then or is that the final finish. If it is last how does it hold up.

 

[Joe Sheble]

Brandon it is in the August issue. John I sand to 220 and then use the paste. Good enough off the tool just use 220 then paste, lots of sandpaper saved. This gives a finish pretty much like sanding to 1000 grit. For me it worked better not using the sanding sealer. It is not cheap but if you are industrious you can make your own

I'm curious, do you have any pics showing the difference of using a sanding sealer versus not using one? Again, being brand spanking new to all of this, I find I'm a little hesitant to deviate from the accepted norm, but I have to admit, I'm not a fan of the sealer... Not the brand, just the overall experience. it's messy, it doesn't pour well into my paper towel (or cloth), smells horrible, and I'm not sure if it's worth it or not. Granted, I could so some tests on my own, but my ignorance about most of this disqualifies me from making a smart choice to skip the sealer or not.

 

[john lucas]

Joe, I never use sanding sealer except on rare occasion to firm up some punky areas. I do use thinned lacquer sometimes to soak into areas that wont take finish. It depends a lot on what finish hou use.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Joe, I never use sanding sealer except on rare occasion to firm up some punky areas. I do use thinned lacquer sometimes to soak into areas that wont take finish. It depends a lot on what finish hou use.

I'm with John. I rarely use sanding sealer.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

Sanding sealer was invented for manufacturing to make the sanding easier. It is also softer than the finish and actually makes the finish less durable.

 

[Bill Blasic]

Sanding sealer is suggested to use with the Yorkshire grit. When I did the review of the grit I used the sanding sealer as suggested on one of the two pieces I did (these pieces were the same piece of wood the main and the coring). I could visually see the scratches (although very minute) on the piece using sanding sealer but the piece without I could not visually see the scratches. On the Ack's review I actually took a close up of the wood of the finished product but not before using the product. I had a show yesterday and sold some of these bowls (people feel the finish but do not look for scratches), these bowls were not labeled as to which process was used so I cannot say one sold better than the other. I put no other finish on these bowls. I have used these products on 8 bowls total. By the way these were all cherry bowls I have tried no other woods.

 

[Brad Winesett]

Has anyone tried this product from Amazon?

https://www.amazon.com/Starkweather...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

 

[Joe Sheble]

I'm doing a Purpleheart and Resin Hybrid vase this week, and am going to skip the sanding sealer as an experiment for myself. Thanks to all participating in this thread... been a real hoot!

 

[Michael Nathal]

I wonder if using the sanding sealer prevents the wood from absorbing the mineral oil and beeswax. Thus allowing a top coat film finish to adhere better.

 

[Bill Blasic]

Mike I use a lot of pressure using these products at very high speeds. What I gathered is the sanding sealer prohibits the grit from doing its job. I think the mineral oil beeswax mixture is inbedded in the wood to a degree and the finish process lives on top of that.

 

[William Rogers]

I think the mineral oil beeswax mixture is inbedded in the wood to a degree and the finish process lives on top of that.

I have never used Yorkshire grit. I do use Zinsser Sanding Sealer mainly as a sealer on some turnings especially where I intend to use dye in a specific area, otherwise the dye will pop out in the adjacent area. Since it has bees wax and mineral oil I am unsure if it would affect finishes such as lacquer or poly. Is there a problem using these finishes after using Yorkshire grit? I would think an oil finish would be ok.

 

[Joe Sheble]

I had every intention of trying the Yorkshire Grit without the Sanding Sealer first last night, but I as I was sanding, I zoned out and forgot, and applied it anyways. Happy with the finish regardless, but next one I'll try skipping the sanding sealer.

 

[Brandon Sloan]

I only use the sanding sealer if the wood calls for it. On my bowls, I haven’t been using any sanding sealer. I sand to 220 and apply Yorkshire grit. I follow up with two coats of doctors woodshop bowl finish. It gives a nice natural look to the wood. Not to shiny and not to dull.

 

[john lucas]

I sand to 400 grit and the use wipe on poly, usually 2 coats but sometimes more. I buff with the Beale buffing system but don't use the Carnauba wax. I get a really nice natural looking gloss that feels incredible to the touch. So I am interested in why and how people use the Yorkshire grit but don't know if I'll go that route just yet.

 

[Brandon Sloan]

I sand to 400 grit and the use wipe on poly, usually 2 coats but sometimes more. I buff with the Beale buffing system but don't use the Carnauba wax. I get a really nice natural looking gloss that feels incredible to the touch. So I am interested in why and how people use the Yorkshire grit but don't know if I'll go that route just yet.

It’s a nice inexpensive tool to keep in the arsenal. I use it because I get the look of sanding to 1000 grit without having to sand to 1000 grit. The results are very similar to wet sanding a piece. You get a very nice result, with very little effort. Less time sanding, more time turning.

How it’s used. I put a little on a paper towel and work it into the piece until it’s covered with a light coat. I turn the lathe on around 200 rpm’s and using the same paper towel, I apply light pressure and work it across the piece as if I was holding a piece of sandpaper. After a few quick passes, I fold the paper towel to expose a clean section and turn the lathe back on around 600 rpm’s. You can hear the Yorkshire grit as it breaks down, almost like a scratching noise. When the noise gets quiet, I continue wiping the piece with the lathe running and continue to re-fold the paper towel until the paper towel looks clean after wiping the piece. Usually the whole process only requires one paper towel.

The piece will look finished and I’ve used it as a final finish a few times. I just quickly learned that it’s not the most durable finish and doesn’t hold up to my toddlers habit of putting things in her mouth. That’s why I only use food grade finishes for stuff that I keep.

 

[Brandon Sloan]

I had every intention of trying the Yorkshire Grit without the Sanding Sealer first last night, but I as I was sanding, I zoned out and forgot, and applied it anyways. Happy with the finish regardless, but next one I'll try skipping the sanding sealer.

Joe, did you add a final finish? I’m just wondering if the picture is the result of just using the Yorkshire grit.

 

[Bill Blasic]

John I started using these grits and their co-finish components for reviews in More Woodturning Magazine. But for that I probably wouldn't be using them. Think this way I now take a finish cut on the bowl and instead of sanding to 400, 600 or 800 I now use these grit products (and I am Making my own) and sand to 220 which is usually the only sanding grit I need and end up with a finish comparable to at least a 1000 grit sandpaper finish. Then using the second parts of these systems the bowl has a finish that feels like the softest, smoothest thing to the touch. Now take in that there is little sanding dust to deal with and that the whole process takes me 7 or 8 minutes for a finish that is food safe and the folks who touch them are impressed. I do not know if another finish could be applied over this finish but my thoughts are that it wouldn't work but I have not tried it. A super shiny finish (lacquer for example) will still require me to sand above 400 grit fo the finish I like.

 

[Joe Sheble]

Joe, did you add a final finish? I’m just wondering if the picture is the result of just using the Yorkshire grit.

Brandon, I used the Beall's 3 Wheel buffing wheels afterwards... Tripoli, White Diamnond, then the Carnuba Wax...

 

[Mike Brazeau]

No one has answered the question of what this finish looks like a year or two down the road. I cannot imagine a beeswax finish holding up, but does the oil sustain it? Not a fan of mineral oil except as a salad bowl mix with beeswax, not on small objects.

 

[Ron Vasser]

I use the homemade sanding grit (diatomaceous earth, beeswax, mineral oil). I just started using a sanding sealer on the large open grains like red oak. I apply the sanding grit with a white scotch bright pad and then a paper towel to remove the excess. The mason jar lid has two heavy coats of sealer and the acorn box has none. Both sanded to 240 and then the sanding grit. Finished on the Beal buffing system. The walnut on the acorn box would have benefited from the sealer I think. Anyway one with and one without.

 

[Bill Blasic]

Mike this for me is a finish for a piece that is used for food. I have no idea what it will look like a year down the road but I think that it could easily be rejuvenated. Heck I'll bet that Burt's Bees (beeswax lip balm) could be used. I'm looking for little 1/2 oz containers to put a beeswax/mineral oil mixture in to give with each bowl.

 

[William Rogers]

Mineral oil and beeswax (less the “grit”) are what I use on my end grain cutting boards. I apply the mineral oil until the board is saturated and then apply the mineral oil beeswax several times rubbing it into the wood. From my personal use I need to rejuvenate the finish every few months for my frequently used board. I have no idea what effect the addition of the grit may have on the longevity of the finish. Those I sell I tell the customer they can just use pharmacy mineral oil or Howards Butcher Block oil that contains both mineral oil and beeswax to rejuvenate the boards as necessary.

 

[Brandon Sloan]

The Yorkshire grit as a finish, in my experience, does not like water. A single drop will dull the finish. I would assume that this means that the Yorkshire grit doesn’t build up on the surface of the wood.

I have applied penetrating finishes on top of the Yorkshire grit and the wood soaked up the finish like expected. I’ve used OB’s shine juice and the results were the same as if I hadn’t used the Yorkshire grit.

I assume the grit component cuts away most of the oil and wax. When I wet sand a piece, the sand paper cuts away most of the oil or wax used. I could be wrong.

My question for the more experienced turners. If you had a product with the exact same ingredients as Yorkshire grit but without the grit, would you ever apply it as a pre-finish?

 

[Michael Nathal]

I use the homemade sanding grit (diatomaceous earth, beeswax, mineral oil). I just started using a sanding sealer on the large open grains like red oak. I apply the sanding grit with a white scotch bright pad and then a paper towel to remove the excess. The mason jar lid has two heavy coats of sealer and the acorn box has none. Both sanded to 240 and then the sanding grit. Finished on the Beal buffing system. The walnut on the acorn box would have benefited from the sealer I think. Anyway one with and one without.

Ron and Joe Sheble, I was surprised you followed the sanding paste with buffing. I would have thought buffing would not be necessary after the paste, perhaps even redundant, except to put a layer of carnauba wax on top. I could see buffing after one puts a film finish on top of the Yorkshire grit. I have a new request for you: before and after buffing photos.

 

[Joe Sheble]

Ron and Joe Sheble, I was surprised you followed the sanding paste with buffing. I would have thought buffing would not be necessary after the paste, perhaps even redundant, except to put a layer of carnauba wax on top. I could see buffing after one puts a film finish on top of the Yorkshire grit. I have a new request for you: before and after buffing photos.

Being so new to this new craft of mine, I'm hesitant to skip steps that seasoned pros follow. It's just normal for me, when I'm done sanding it, I put it through the 3 buffing wheels because that's just how it's done... Originally with the purpleheart vase I did (pic above) I wasn't happy with the overall sheen of it, which is why I put it through the 3 wheels. It definitely came out better, but was it the final wheel that put such a great shine on it, or the combination of all 3 of them? I don't know, nor am I knowledgeable enough to guess at it. But it's certainly time to bust out of the routine, and try experimenting.

 

[Russell Nugent]

In my experience with yorkshire grit you are actually trying to remove all the paste infeed the grit is gone. I don't use it as a finish at all. I usually follow up with either ob shine juice or an oil finish. Depends on what I'm doing.

 

[Ron Vasser]

Ron and Joe Sheble, I was surprised you followed the sanding paste with buffing. I would have thought buffing would not be necessary after the paste, perhaps even redundant, except to put a layer of carnauba wax on top. I could see buffing after one puts a film finish on top of the Yorkshire grit. I have a new request for you: before and after buffing photos.

I should have said I just use the Carnuba Wax with the beal buffing after the sanding paste. I have turned the wood fast enough to generate heat and force the beeswax and mineral oil into the wood and then put a coat of Danish oil on before the Carnuba Wax. I've got another acorn box and mason jar lid ready to jam chuck and finish. I'll post one with the paste and one with the paste and Carnuba Wax probably Saturday, going fishing in the morning.
Michael, I am a rookie and research and experiment almost every day, just wanted to bring this to your attention also.

 

[Kristin Taylor]

Do you have a link to the review you did of the Yorkshire grit? I’ll be looking for your review of the Ack’s in the November issue.

Same here...I’d love to read those reviews.

 

[Bill Blasic]

August 2019 issue of More Woodturning Magazine has YG review.

 

[Vicki Hayden]

This is a very helpful thread. Bill, do you use both the Yorkshire grit and Hampshire sheen on the same piece? YG to 'sand' and HS to 'finish'?
How do these compare to EEE-Ultra Shine Woodturner's Finish, as far as sanding/scratch removal and shine? I use EEE and it doesn't seem to remove all the scratches and I go to 320 or 400. Also, not quite as shiny as I'd like.