The links at the site haven't worked for a while. Does anyone know why?
Note the remote cut off will kill the motor but the VFD will still have power so it is important when out of the shop to either unplug or use a throw switch (not the correct term but someone will correct) . You do not want to throw the panel breaker for this as it will weaken the breaker in time and is not its intended purpose.Thanks Rich, I am a new member but have been turning awhile and own a 16 year old 3520B that I bought new. I was looking at the remote shutoff switch article on the site and I am going to try to put one of the magnets on the back of my DPST switch I want to put in line to the VFD that I just replaced, to be able to take it out of service when not using the lathe. I realize I will have two heavier lines to the switch which I can support with zip ties under the bed as I want to put this switch on the tailstock end of the lathe. This can act as an emergency shut-off switch if needed. I need this on a magnet as I have the bed extension and have not used it in the lower position so don't know where the switch can be located to always be out of the way, may never have a permanent location. Again, thanks for getting this site up and running!
Marvin, that switch will not stop the lathe that fast in an emergency situation. Best to use a switch connected in series with the red stop switch. It can be mounted remotely and will use the breaking feature of the VFD.Gerald, I bought a single throw double pole 20 amp switch to put on the two incoming lines to the VFD from the 220 volt supply plug. Switch was about six dollars at home depot. As I stated above, being on the tail stock end, it can act as an emergency switch if needed. So far I have not needed a switch down there. Every time something came off the lathe, a piece of sycamore too close to the pith or a piece of bark, it had already bounced its path to eventually the floor by the time I could have reacted by tripping a switch, probably cursing myself now by stating this......
Rich, here is how to fix all of the old broken links to threads on the AAW forum before June 27, 2016, when we were using vBulletin forum software. For example on page 2 of your PDF link above, about midpage, the paragraph that begins with, "Can I move it by myself?" There is an old broken link: http://www.aawforum.org/vbforum/showthread.php?t=3389
Do the following steps:
After you finish editing, you will have:
- Replace "/vbforum/" with "/community/".
- Replace "showthread.php?t=3389/" with "threads/3389/".
http://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/3389/
When you click on this updated link, the desired page will open, and the thread URL in the address bar will include keywords from the thread title as follows:
https://www.aawforum.org/community/threads/setting-up-a-pm-3520b.3389/
While it isn't mandatory to include SEO keywords (search engine optimization, basically the keywords in the thread title) to the "slug" of the URL it can be helpful in case of a broken link in the future.
Yes, you can have clickable links in a PDF document.
So the braking resistor circuit is somehow connected to the emergency stop button, interesting. I was wondering about that. My effort at this time is not so much the emergency stop but to put an inline switch on supply to the VFD. I have the VFD programmed to shut it's cooling fan off when the stop button is pushed in but I don't want to wear out that button. After installing the switch I can change the fan to run until switch is activated, which will remind me to turn it off. I will look into the remote emergency shutoff as soon as I get the permanent wiring and switch installed. Thanks Gerald and Larry for the information!
Just one thing, if you are primarily interested in protecting the VFD electronics, a disconnect switch isn't going to do that unless it also disconnects neutral (and ground for 120v circuit) - as long as there's any electrical path to the lathe, it can be affected by a surge. (neutral is bonded to the grounding bus at the breaker panel in most cases) - only way to fully protect is to unplug, or your switch needs to actually disconnect all 3 wires (black red white, or black white ground) My shop has been hit by lightning twice (not direct hits but closest was less than 30 Ft. from where I was standing when it hit a tree) and both times it fried not only the shop's computer, (and printer and credit card machine too) but also fried the power supply and motherboard in another backup computer that was plugged in to an unpowered circuit (breaker was turned off on that circuit pending a new wiring run that I planned to put through) I assume a VFD's electronics while maybe more robust may be affected in the same way, so lesson learned, if you want it protected, unplug it, it isn't enough to just have the circuit breaker turned off. I'm considering the possibility of getting a whole-house surge suppressor (one that hooks right in at the breaker panel) but not sure if even that would help in the case of lightning strikes nearby (since lightning's surge can feed back through anything touching the ground, unless lathe sits on isolator mounts)Great information and thanks! The purpose of the switch I'm installing is to protect the new VFD I installed. The lathe was always connected to power prior replacing the drive so I guess a 16 year run was not too bad. I was stating the location of the switch, if located near the tailstock could act as an emergency off switch. After reading Larry's reply and the remote safety switch installation article again, I've decided to install one of those as well. I can go ahead and mount the power switch permanently on the wall near the tailstock as it will be easier to reach over and turn it off when leaving the lathe.
I'm not an electrician nor have a much of an electronically inclined mind, have more of a mechanic mentality so was able to replace and program the VFD with John Coppola's article in the tricks and tips section. I was truly wondering how that resistor slowed the lathe down so thank you for insight as to it's function. I did add a few seconds of time to the slow down function of lathe as did John when he installed his. My chuck has only become unseated very few times when I did not insure it were snug and would get in a hurry with the potentiometer.
I mentioned above that I knew the current was less than normal household current to the emergency switch and have concerns that the switches mentioned in the article appear to be for normal 120 volt service. I wasn't sure if I could spec out a switch rated for the current draw of the switch, or was it really a needed concern. I figured a switch is either on or off and they appear to be working for others, your thoughts? I have not purchased the switch for the remote yet. Thanks again.
Just one thing, if you are primarily interested in protecting the VFD electronics, a disconnect switch isn't going to do that unless it also disconnects neutral (and ground for 120v circuit) - as long as there's any electrical path to the lathe, it can be affected by a surge. (neutral is bonded to the grounding bus at the breaker panel in most cases) - only way to fully protect is to unplug, or your switch needs to actually disconnect all 3 wires (black red white, or black white ground) My shop has been hit by lightning twice (not direct hits but closest was less than 30 Ft. from where I was standing when it hit a tree) and both times it fried not only the shop's computer, (and printer and credit card machine too) but also fried the power supply and motherboard in another backup computer that was plugged in to an unpowered circuit (breaker was turned off on that circuit pending a new wiring run that I planned to put through) I assume a VFD's electronics while maybe more robust may be affected in the same way, so lesson learned, if you want it protected, unplug it, it isn't enough to just have the circuit breaker turned off. I'm considering the possibility of getting a whole-house surge suppressor (one that hooks right in at the breaker panel) but not sure if even that would help in the case of lightning strikes nearby (since lightning's surge can feed back through anything touching the ground, unless lathe sits on isolator mounts)
Actually there is, but I was thinking of a 50 amp dryer circuit (that I had to re-wire a few years back) - 4 wires: red, black (the 2 hot wires), white (yes ,a neutral) and ground... Dug around a little bit, and yes, the 240v 20 amp circuit (which I am assuming is common to the 240v lathes) does only need the 2 hot wires, and ground of course... Forewarned is forearmed, I guess, since I eventually (if and when I can scrape together the 3 grand or so for the Jet 1840 I settled on as a compromise between what I want (Sweet 16) vs the best I can actually maybe afford (and willing to buy).. so I'm sure I'll be more well-read when that day arrives that I wire in my new 240v 20amp circuit (currently there's an unused old-style 60 amp 240v that was put in for an arc welder back in 1986, for which I plan to re-purpose that breaker panel slot..)Neutral is a 120-volt circuit current-carrying conductor. There is no neutral conductor in a 240-volt circuit.
Bill,
Thank you. I think all the PDFs have been updated to reflect this properly. If anyone sees any problems, kindly let me know.
Kind regards,
Rich
That should work, I would imagine. Pretty much just installing a second circuit breaker near to where you can access it......so basically I am wanting the VFD to not receive power all the time under normal circumstances. My lathe feed is 2 124 volt legs and a ground, according to my fluke. I'm going to risk it and install a double pole single throw switch on the two hot legs then install a remote emergency stop to hit as I run by it.......
Bill,@RichColvin, I thought it would be nice if the links in the PDF were clickable so I updated the document on setting up and moving the Powermatic 3520 for the links that are still good (mostly AAW and Sawmill Creek forum links). I also updated the permalinks with keywords where applicable to make the links more future-proof. It looks like somebody made a typo on one of the AAW forum links because the thread number is too large. If you still have the original document please check the link to see if the thread number is different.
Here is my edited version including comments where I found a problem. I just noticed that I missed a couple of the links.