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what 4-1/2" grinder to get

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I want to expand into some larger wood sculpting and hope to purchase the arbor tec planner blade and the mini planner, but would really like to get some advice from those of you who have used these blades before upgrading my 4-1/2" grinder that is verrrry old. What brands have found that works well for somewhat extended working times, amps, trigger placement etc... I have many requests for the old fashion rectangular doe/bread bowls. Thanks
 
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Hi Breck,

I've logged hundreds of hours on a 4 1/2" grinder, though I have very limited (almost non-existent) experience with the Arbortec. Most of my hours on the grinder have not been enviable, even by masochists, and many have been in a Tyvek suit with a respirator.

My best 4 1/2" grinder was a Milwaukee that lasted about 8 years as my primary grinder working construction, concrete, and boat repair. It still runs, but the switch has gone bad (and fixed) enough times to need a new replacement. I bought that in 2002, and if you can find one of those, it should do well.

I recently bought a Makita, and it's holding up well, and has good trigger placement for me. I also like a smaller body to the grinder, so it's slim in the hand. For fit, it should be comfortable using it one-handed (though of course that's not recommended for safety.) So the ideal grinder body for you depends on the size and shape of your hands. The Milwaukee was my favorite, and fit me well grinding one-handed from ladders and on boats (also not recommended for safety reasons...)

I'm also a nut for balance of a tool. When you use a tool a lot, it's important. I've run a few cheap imports on various jobs where the balance of the grinder felt so bad my first thought was that the tool is an accident waiting to happen. Grinders are up there with old combines, chainsaws, and woodlathes for potential injuries—so it's worth having the best.

Good luck, and post some pictures here if you get a chance.
 

john lucas

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I used a $20 Harbour Freight for many years. It was noisy, the switch would sometimes just shut off, but it ran,and ran and ran. I bought it thinking I would use it occasionally and if I liked using an angle grinder I would buy a better one later. I used it so much I bought a second one that died the second time I use it. Lesson learned. However it just kept on running. I now have a Makita and a Porter Cable. Got them because they were on sale in a Hardware that was closing down and couldn't pass up the deal. The Makita is OK. Runs quiet and easy to use. The Porter Cable I really like. What I liked most about my Harbour Freight was that you could move the blade guard to any position. I would adjust it so I could use it as a bevel and control the depth of cut. This reduced kick back dangers tremendously when doing the most dangerous cut which is a plunge cut. Think about sticking the nose of a chainsaw into a blank and you get the idea. The porter Cable grinder has a quick release lever for the blade guard so you can either remove it, or adjust it, to the position that works best for you. This is much better for a carving tool since each of us uses our tools differently. There are also 3 positions for the additional handle. Since I firmly believe these should be used with both hands if at all possible this is quite welcome. The handle also holds the wrench for installing the blades which is a nice feature.
I have not used the Arbor Tec planer blade yet. I have the holey Galahad and one other carbide dot style blade that I use for what I call scraping cuts. I use Chainsaw type cutter for most cutting mostly because it's what I first bought and it works well enough that I haven't bought the Arbor Tec with carbide teeth. I've use one. Both have about the same cutting action and both will grab on a plunge cut if your not careful. The chainsaw cutter throws out sharp chips the hits your fore arm so a shirt or jacket is necessary. The shavings from the Arbor Tec aren't quite as abrasive. It's just an awful lot of money when I already have a cutter that works and I don't do a huge amount of this type of cutting.
 
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We use Dewalt here at the shop with the paddle switch. They hold up well, run cool and last. My vote would be for any of the better ones with a paddle switch. No time for HF stuff here.

Remember to leave the guard on when you use those carving tools. You may want to get some Kevlar or other protective clothing too. There is a learning curve and a catch can send the grinder into your body at the place you want to keep intact.
 
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I got a Harbor Freight just because as John said I thought only occasional use. Have the original Arbortech on it. The grinder has a loose feel and is very loud. The Arbortech wheel works great and there is a learning curve. I first used it to carve the bowls of spoons. Practice with a piece before use on a keeper. Approach at an angle instead of a plunge till you get used to the feel. The guard helps a lot diverting chips but you still need eye protection.
 
Joined
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I have a metabo.
I really like it. There consumable change out is tool-less.
The on / off switch is not a paddle and sometimes I think I'd prefer a paddle but that'd be my only complaint.

I had a Horrible Fright angle grinder ( the red one) for - - ohh maybe 15 minutes - - before sending it back
 
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I have a Makita and like it very much. Granted I'm not a heavy angle grinder user but I do restore machinery and use it for metal grinding, wire cup wheel and other stripping and polishing. I didn't want to spend a fortune but wanted something good. I can definitely recommend it as an option.

Doug
 

john lucas

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I have planned an Angle grinder safety video but that got put on the back burner when I decided to get married and moved. Now that the shop is up and running I will probably try to do it sometime this winter or maybe spring. There was a terrible accident up in Kentucky and that's what got me started. The Accident happened when an untrained person was using a Lancelot chainsaw cutter in an angle grinder and was using it one handed. It got away from instantly and ran across his throat. Fortunately he is still alive but with a very nasty scar. People immediately jumped in and claimed the Arbortec was safer. Not true. I borrowed one from a friend and spent a day carving with both going back and forth. There wasn't any difference in how easy or quickly the tool grabbed and ran with a plunge cut. This led to more experimentation on my part along with a long discussion with my friend Brad Sells who makes a living with one of those things. I learned a lot about how to use it more safely. Brads take was that air tools were safer simply because they have that sort of paddle or deadman kind of switch. Brad said an electric tool got away from him one day and chased him around the shop. An air tool will stop if you drop it. But I also learned a lot more about how to use the tool safely to both control the cuts and to cut in the proper direction to prevent injury if it does try to run on you.
What I learned the most after lots of experimenting is the 2" arbortec is far and away safer than the 4 1/2". You can remove material quick enough for the size work we do and it's just flat out safer and easier to control.
 
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John

Can you give more info on the 2" arbortech, is this just a cutter or it the whole tool i.e grinder and cutter, also potential source
 

john lucas

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I just did a search and I couldn't find the arbortec mini grinder by itself. Maybe you can search further. I bought mine as a kit installed on a grinder and it looks like that's the way most people sell it. I use it for most of my carving now unless I need to hog off a lot of wood or need the larger radius cutter to smooth out lines. It is so much more controllable and safer.
 

Bill Boehme

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I just took a look at the Arbortech Mini Grinder and it sort of gives me the willies with that wicked looking cutter hanging out in the breeze. The bullet chart underneath the picture says it is "extremely safe" and "easy to use". While looks don't tell the whole story, I think that I need to see it in action to be convinced. :rolleyes:
 

john lucas

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Well it sure ain't safe. Of course neither is a Foredom with a carbide cutter or even a Dremel with a carbide burr. What I can say is that it's far safer than the 4 1/2" grinders with almost any kind of cutter on them. It doesn't want to pull itself into the work like the big cutters do. It's spinning fast enough to make the cuts very controllable. Like the bigger cutters I never use it one handed but I have seen Stewart Mortimer cut spiral flutes using it one handed. It is that controllable. I would never even think of doing that with a 4 1/2" cutter. They do make other styles of cutters and abrasives that fit on the small cutter frame so you don't have to absolutely use the carbide tooth cutter.
 

hockenbery

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I think John covered it well.
The Arbotech, Dremel, Foredom, chainsaw all have cutters that are unguarded and can all hurt you.
All can be used properly with little risk.

I am much more concerned about speeding cars when I go to the mailbox than I am about using a chainsaw or Arbotech.

Make sure the piece being cut cannot move, have a good body position, move the tool under your control.

The exposed cutter of the arbotech is about 3" of the circumference and it sticks out from the mounting a 1/2 to 3/4"
It could do significant damage if it contacted a body part.
My chain saw has about 38" of exposed cutters

Be safe,
Al
 
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John

Can you give more info on the 2" arbortech, is this just a cutter or it the whole tool i.e grinder and cutter, also potential source

Russ look at the link Bill gave . The Mini-Turbo is what you are looking for . I have the 4 inch and having the guard on it does feel safer, but if carbides get away will go thru most plastic. I do like mine , but that mini sure is appealing.
By the way there is a video on that Arbortech site.
 
Last edited:
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Made a decision

I researched grinders and finally made a decision to get a Bosh 8.5 amp 11,500 rpm AG40-85PD It has the power to handle anything I will ever need in the future. I have no plans to use any blades other than the Planer and the mini planer which are a great deal safer than the other carving blades. Even though any of these can be dangerous without some knowledge and common sense. We all or almost all of us have to use chain saws and there is a learning curve on them also. A little fear is a very good thing, I believe 96% of all accidents with a chain saw come from over confidence and carelessness. I approach all new equipment with an cautious approach. Thanks for everyone's input.
 

john lucas

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The problem with the planer blade is you can't reach into tight areas. You can still plane with the other blade and in fact it's quite a bit safer using this I call it scraping motion. If your wanting to undercut under a handle or lets say make a handle that looks like a T, you can't do that with the Planer blade. I think it's more of a specialized tool for cleaning up broad areas. Now if you had one of those and a mini grinder you would have a huge amount of capability. Cutters such as the Holy Galahad sort of have both capabilities. They cut on the edge and the flat. They won't reach into tight areas like the Lancelot chainsaw cutter but will get into semi tight areas. http://www.katools.com/shop/carving-tools-holey-galahad-c-21_33.html
 
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