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Sorby 1/16 Fluted Parting Tool

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I received a 1/16 Sorby Parting Tool as a gift. Can anyone give me some advice on using this tool. I can't seem to use it without getting a catch??? I've been turning for a couple of years and have used all kinds of gouges, scrapers, parters and skews with almost never a catch. But when I pick this one up I feel like a beginner.
 
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Which one do you have-there are 2 styles of this tool from Sorby. Then we should be able to help better. These tools are designed to be used straight in with an arc motion.
 
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It cuts kind of like a scraper. Use a hone to sharpen the bevel. You want the long edge on the toolrest. Push the tool in about its thickness to start the part, then, back out, and go in again at a slight angle to widen the kerf. You can then begin to get a bit more agressive about the part once you've widened the kerf a bit.

Oops, didn't notice you said fluted. In general, you use it with the flute down. The two little prongs dig in and start the cut and guide the cut. Same comment about making your kerf a bit wider.

I have a 1/8 fluted parting tool. I don't like it, and use it to make small decorative beads. If the flutes run the length of the bottom of the tool (mine does that), I have a thin strip of hardwood that I use to protect my toolrest.
 
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Bill Boehme

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I received a 1/16 Sorby Parting Tool as a gift. Can anyone give me some advice on using this tool. I can't seem to use it without getting a catch??? I've been turning for a couple of years and have used all kinds of gouges, scrapers, parters and skews with almost never a catch. But when I pick this one up I feel like a beginner.

I suppose this is the one that you are talking about:
image.jpeg

I also have this one and it is my favorite. There are two important things when using it. First, is to have the tool horizontal and keep the point at or slightly above center. If you let it get below center, it could get pulled into the kerf. Second is to make a clearance cut so that the kerf is about fifty percent wider than the tool. If it is a deep cut then make the kerf even wider.

I'll add that it is important to keep the tool standing straight. If it is allowed to lean sideways it will probably catch even if the kerf is otherwise wide enough. I suspect that you are getting catches because of not opening up the kerf sufficiently.

One "parting" comment ... the tool is used with the fluted side down as shown in the picture. The tool is sharpened by grinding or honing the short top bevel only.
 

Bill Boehme

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One final "final parting" comment. You will initially need to have the toolrest backed off sufficiently so that the angled fluted part isn't sitting on the toolrest. That's a minor inconvenience sometimes, but you don't want to ding the edges of the flutes.
 
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It cuts kind of like a scraper. Use a hone to sharpen the bevel. You want the long edge on the toolrest. Push the tool in about its thickness to start the part, then, back out, and go in again at a slight angle to widen the kerf. You can then begin to get a bit more agressive about the part once you've widened the kerf a bit.

Oops, didn't notice you said fluted. In general, you use it with the flute down. The two little prongs dig in and start the cut and guide the cut. Same comment about making your kerf a bit wider.

I have a 1/8 fluted parting tool. I don't like it, and use it to make small decorative beads. If the flutes run the length of the bottom of the tool (mine does that), I have a thin strip of hardwood that I use to protect my toolrest.
 
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Well then, that answers my question. I did not think to use the fluted side down! That seems counter intuitive, but now that I think about it those little horns on the flute are causing the catches.. So simple! Thanks. I guess because I didn't want the machined flute resting on my toollrest. I thought it would damage either the tool or dig into the rest.
 

odie

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I'm using my fluted parting tool with the fluted side up. I touch up the cutting edge with a diamond hone on the unfluted side......works well for me. As explained in this thread, the kerf is cut in two passes, so as to avoid binding and catches.
 
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The fangs score/cut the wood, the flute ejects it. Like an ATBR saw blade. I don't use two full passes, just one fang over or wax the blade if I'm trying to keep pattern interruption to a minimum. Otherwise, as Odie.
 
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I'm using my fluted parting tool with the fluted side up. I touch up the cutting edge with a diamond hone on the unfluted side......works well for me. As explained in this thread, the kerf is cut in two passes, so as to avoid binding and catches.

Thanks I'll work on my technique. But I am going to give it a go with the fluted side down and see if it works for me.
 

odie

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Thanks I'll work on my technique. But I am going to give it a go with the fluted side down and see if it works for me.

Flute side down is the way it's originally intended to be used......so, that's probably your best bet to get started. :D

A couple reasons I do it back-arse-words, is the horizontal distance from the tool rest to where the cut takes place, is shorter......and, should there ever be binding, or a catch, the vertical distance from the top of the tool rest to the level of where the cut is taking place, is also shorter. This will make it easier to control, and less violent.

I have tried it both ways, and as long as the cutting edge is refreshed, sharp and crisp, I'm not seeing any difference for the quality of the cut.

ko
 
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Okay, another question about parting tools... I had thought that you want to do more of a peeling cut with them rather than plunge straight in, as in start rubbing the bevel, with the handle down, and raise the handle till it starts to cut. Correct? or both ways? For sure, for any cut more than about 1 inch deep, I open up the kerf. Spell check doesn't know what kerf is. Hmm, now the first one is red underlined, but not the secone one....

robo hippy
 

Mark Hepburn

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Flute side down is the way it's originally intended to be used......so, that's probably your best bet to get started. :D

A couple reasons I do it back-arse-words, is the horizontal distance from the tool rest to where the cut takes place, is shorter......and, should there ever be binding, or a catch, the vertical distance from the top of the tool rest to the level of where the cut is taking place, is also shorter. This will make it easier to control, and less violent.

I have tried it both ways, and as long as the cutting edge is refreshed, sharp and crisp, I'm not seeing any difference for the quality of the cut.

ko

I use it "upside down" also and prefer it, mostly for the same reason. I really only use it on small turnings like finials and small boxes, lids, etc and like to have the rest closer. I do keep it sharp, and have no issues with catches. Don't ask me about my other tools :)

Gonna start waxing as Michael suggests in an earlier post.
 

Bill Boehme

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Okay, another question about parting tools... I had thought that you want to do more of a peeling cut with them rather than plunge straight in, as in start rubbing the bevel, with the handle down, and raise the handle till it starts to cut. Correct? or both ways? For sure, for any cut more than about 1 inch deep, I open up the kerf. Spell check doesn't know what kerf is. Hmm, now the first one is red underlined, but not the secone one....

robo hippy

My spell checker replaces kerf with kelp. :D

If I were making a tenon on an end grain piece with a typical 1/4" parting tool then a peeling cut obviously makes sense. A peeling cut would also be a good idea when parting spindles with a standard two bevel parting tool, but for face grain a peeling cut may not always be the smartest thing to do. I think that a straight in plunge would be better.

Since we're talking about thin kerf fluted parting tools there can't be a peeling cut because there is no bevel on the lower side and the cutting edge has horns or fangs sticking out that aren't very conducive to a peeling cut.

The rationale that I use for using the tool with the fluted edge down is that the sharp edges of the flute might become blunted over time if used with the flute facing up). I can't say if that notion is valid, but I'm sticking with that story anyway. :rolleyes: And, even if the flute edges do become dulled, it might not be a huge deal anyway.
 

Mark Hepburn

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Well just plunge right in then, Bill. :)

Personally, if a tool has fangs, I don't use it. Just my personal credo. Also, never play cards with anyone named after a city, and get at least 10 hours of sleep a day.

Seriously, do you plunge straight in? I think I need to do some research because I probably have my tool rest too low. I tend to put the parting tool below center and drop the handle, raising the cutting edge into the work piece. So how fatally flawed is this practice, because it seems intuitive to me?
 

Bill Boehme

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Also, never play cards with anyone named after a city, and get at least 10 hours of sleep a day.

Good advice especially if it's Truth or Consequences (New Mexico). I think that maybe I'll shelve my planned nickname of Dripping Springs (it's a senior thing).
 

hockenbery

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I think I need to do some research because I probably have my tool rest too low. I tend to put the parting tool below center and drop the handle, raising the cutting edge into the work piece. So how fatally flawed is this practice, because it seems intuitive to me?

I mostly use a parting tool on spindles. So a peeling cut is my primary use of the parting tool
Tool rest roughly at center, Bevel on the wood, handle low. raise the handle to engage the peel and arc the tool point toward the center of the spindle to follow the peeling off wood.

Your method may be similar to a
A trick I learned from Stewart Batty to leave a sharp corner Is to start the parting Point down handle up. Tool rest roughly at center. Handel up the top edge of the parting tool engages the wood and the tool handle goes down making a parting cut with the topmedge of the tool until the lower bevel is on the wood then do the peeling cut.
This action cuts about an 1/8" deep with a fairly clean edge before the peeling cut starts.
 

Mark Hepburn

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Thanks Al. I think I can visualize that pretty clearly and I'm going to work on that a bit tonight. I'm doing some shoe horns for gifts.
 

Mark Hepburn

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Good advice especially if it's Truth or Consequences (New Mexico). I think that maybe I'll shelve my planned nickname of Dripping Springs (it's a senior thing).

Yeah, I'd avoid any nickname that includes "dripping" if it were me. Just sayin...

And I will say no more. As a wise man said on another post not too long ago. Ahem! :rolleyes:
 

Bill Boehme

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Seriously, do you plunge straight in? I think I need to do some research because I probably have my tool rest too low. I tend to put the parting tool below center and drop the handle, raising the cutting edge into the work piece. So how fatally flawed is this practice, because it seems intuitive to me?

Well probably just above center and then dive in when I get close. I need to check because I do it without thinking so maybe what I say isn't exactly how I do it. I wouldn't let the point go belong center because the tool could get pulled in if the cut is deep ... like the time that I ... well, nobody wants to hear a blood and guts story. Just be careful if the cut is nearly as deep as the length of the parting tool. :eek:

OT, but sometimes I hate this @&#^% auto incorrect on Safari.
 

Bill Boehme

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Thanks Al. I think I can visualize that pretty clearly and I'm going to work on that a bit tonight. I'm doing some shoe horns for gifts.

Here in Texas we put horns on our Caddies, but we draw the line at doing that to our boots ... only a drugstore cowboy would commit such a fashion faux pas.

And, I might go Postal against my iPad for the &^$%#@ auto-correct that Safari does. I'm on my desktop PC now so I can correct errors without fighting that #$@) *&^$<+& &%^#@ stinkin' #$*>+&*! And, that's all that I have to say about that.
 
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I also use this tool fluted side up. It will bind and catch either way if, as Odie said, you don't give it enough kerf before going deep. I find about 1.5 the width of the tool works fine. I use it backwards because, well, that's how I thought it was supposed to be used when I first bought it.
 

Mark Hepburn

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Well probably just above center and then dive in when I get close. I need to check because I do it without thinking so maybe what I say isn't exactly how I do it. I wouldn't let the point go belong center because the tool could get pulled in if the cut is deep ... like the time that I ... well, nobody wants to hear a blood and guts story. Just be careful if the cut is nearly as deep as the length of the parting tool. :eek:

OT, but sometimes I hate this @&#^% auto incorrect on Safari.

OT? :D
 
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