Homemade grit compounds

[Kit Beuret]

I just ran out of Yorkshire Grit, again, and wondered if anyone is making his/her own polishing grits. If so, what is your formula. Kit

 

[Brandon Sloan]

I’m pretty sure Rotten stone is used and I’ve heard of people using diatomaceous earth. The base is usually beeswax.
Of course I’m going off of memory from a forum I read at some point. I’m sure someone has better instructions out there, good luck.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Brandon's post covers the popular materials used for grit compounds that breaks down, you can add oil to your beeswax to provide a thinner paste compound. The common method is to heat the beeswax and oil, mix it to a homogenous consistency and add the grit to your liquid compound and stir it until it cools into a paste compound and then transfer to a container.

 

[john lucas]

I just use sandpaper unless I'm polishing the finish. Then I use sanpaper up to 1500 grit and then go to automotive polishes. I have used Pumice and Rhotenstone in the past.

 

[William Rogers]

Mike Peace had a great article in the February American Woodturner on wet sanding and homade paste.

 

[Russell Nugent]

And a couple of videos on his YouTube channel about it

 

[Bill Boehme]

Tripoli is essentially the same thing as rottenstone so it you have a bar of tripoli, you can grind it up with a mortar and pestle and then mix it with wax and oil. I'm not familiar with Yorkshire grit so I don't know if this will meet your needs.

 

[Kit Beuret]

Thanks for all your suggestions.

 

[Bill Blasic]

I'm doing a review of this wood paste made here in the US for More Woodturning Magazine, you may want to give it a try. https://ackswoodpaste.com/

 

[Mike Johnson]

This would make a great demo for the average woodturning club, cook up a batch of grit paste and send everyone home with a can of paste.
If you make your own at home you end up with a life time supply and then some.

 

[Mike Peace]

This would make a great demo for the average woodturning club, cook up a batch of grit paste and send everyone home with a can of paste.
If you make your own at home you end up with a life time supply and then some.

It is not a bad side activity to a hands on workshop which is how I didi it. But would would take a couple of large crockpots to send everyone home with 8 oz. Would be duller than dirt to watch but might work if everyone is milling around talking.

 

[Mike Johnson]

They make the little metal tins in many sizes 8oz is a sizeable amount for the average hobby woodturner. A small tin with your business name on the cover is a good marketing item to give away when a customer purchases a turned piece.

 

[Ron Vasser]

The one I used that seems to work well is made with mineral oil, beeswax, and white diatomaceous earth. 4 parts oil to 1 part wax to 1 part DE by weight. Heat oil in a double boiler, stir in wax when melted stir in DE. When mixed put the pan in a container or sink of ice and stir until thick so the heavy particles don't settle.

 

[Bob Mezzatesta]

This is an excellent video.

View: https://youtu.be/zufgDTh3fis

 

[Michael Nathal]

I have two main questions about this stuff. 1. Since it is usually made with mineral oil and wax, does it interfere with adding a top coat like varnish or lacquer? If not, why not? and 2. There at least 4 commercial products: EEE, Dr Kirk's, Yorkshire grit, and Ack's. Are they essentially the same or are there significant differences?

 

[Brandon Sloan]

I have two main questions about this stuff. 1. Since it is usually made with mineral oil and wax, does it interfere with adding a top coat like varnish or lacquer? If not, why not? and 2. There at least 4 commercial products: EEE, Dr Kirk's, Yorkshire grit, and Ack's. Are they essentially the same or are there significant differences?

I can only comment on the Yorkshire grit, I’m on my second batch and have learned a few things. A little goes a long way. You want to wipe it on as light as possible. I’ve noticed that my final finish builds up quicker and applies more evenly. Another thing I’ve noticed is that it will darken/enhance the piece slightly. However, the slightest amount of water seems to remove that effect.

After writing this, I went ahead and ordered the Ack’s. I’ll do a comparison between the Yorkshire grit and the Ack’s and report back.

 

[Donovan Bailey]

I have two main questions about this stuff. 1. Since it is usually made with mineral oil and wax, does it interfere with adding a top coat like varnish or lacquer? If not, why not? and 2. There at least 4 commercial products: EEE, Dr Kirk's, Yorkshire grit, and Ack's. Are they essentially the same or are there significant differences?

Great questions, Michael. In addition to your questions...I would also like to know if anyone has used an oil-based finish (Danish, walnut, Waterlox, etc.) after using one of the grit compounds. If so, was it a success?

 

[Mike Johnson]

Great questions, Michael. In addition to your questions...I would also like to know if anyone has used an oil-based finish (Danish, walnut, Waterlox, etc.) after using one of the grit compounds. If so, was it a success?

Depending on the finish being applied, the grit polishing compound will only leave a minimal amount of wax/oil compound behind and many woods already contain a considerable amount of natural oils in the wood depending on the species. A small test piece of wood is an easy way to test a finish process to make sure you don't run into a problem.

 

[Russell Nugent]

I've used oil after Yorkshire grit with no issues. My homemade beeswax compound leaves a little more residue than yorkshire grit and isn't quite as effective.

 

[Michael Nathal]

Another version of home made abrasive grit/wax combo is in this video. He just puts a little wax on a paper towel and then adds some pumice on top of the wax. It is shown at about the 24 minute mark.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ATPL2DadXp0

 

[Donovan Bailey]

Another version of home made abrasive grit/wax combo is in this video. He just puts a little wax on a paper towel and then adds some pumice on top of the wax. It is shown at about the 24 minute mark.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ATPL2DadXp0

Interesting video, Mike. Thanks for posting. I personally find it spotty work using an oil-based finish on wood after using Yorkshire Grit or Ack's in that it is difficult to establish a reliable process. No problem if I stick with a wax-based finish, however, I've tried every quirk (a DNA wipedown, etc.) that I can think of to try and come up with a reliable process for then using something like Danish, Tung, Waterlox, etc. Sometimes I can make it work to my satisfaction...and about 50% of the time it does not work for me. I love the concept, however, so I will keep on looking.

 

[Michael Nathal]

personally find it spotty work using an oil-based finish on wood after using Yorkshire Grit or Ack's in that it is difficult to establish a reliable process. No problem if I stick with a wax-based finish, however, I've tried every quirk (a DNA wipedown, etc.) that I can think of to try and come up with a reliable process for then using something like Danish, Tung, Waterlox, etc. Sometimes I can make it work to my satisfaction...and about 50% of the time it does not work for me. I love the concept, however, so I will keep on looking.

You might want to try wet sanding with oil, I think the effect is similar to these grit/wax compounds. I dry sand for the coarse grits and switch to wet sanding for 240 grit through 400. I usually use walnut oil, which becomes the first layer in your finish. Unlike mineral oil, walnut oil hardens (cures) and you can put oil based finishes on top, although frequently it cures very slowly, up to several weeks. You can accelerate the curing through heat and/or sunlight. Heat can come from friction while on the lathe, or from my kitchen oven set to "warm". I have also tried wet sanding with tung oil, I use Corey's tung oil thinned with citrus.. There are some videos by Doctor's Woodshop on wet sanding.

 

[Don C Davis]

My version of Yorkshire Grit is 60% walnut oil and 39% carnuba wax, and 1% (read a little bit-like 4 tablespoons) of rottenstone. I have made this with Pumice and with the Rottenstone, and the Pumice mix remains abrasive longer--the rottenstone seems to be abrasive initially and that seems to dissipate as it's used. I like the Rottenstone mix best--I heat the walnut oil in a double boiler, until the carnuba wax melts in it, and then stir it thoroughly for several minutes, and then add the Rottenstone in and stir the mix thoroughly and turn off the heat and continue stirring until the mix begins to thicken a good bit, pour it into tins and let it cool til set.

 

[Donovan Bailey]

My version of Yorkshire Grit is 60% walnut oil and 39% carnuba wax, and 1% (read a little bit-like 4 tablespoons) of rottenstone. I have made this with Pumice and with the Rottenstone, and the Pumice mix remains abrasive longer--the rottenstone seems to be abrasive initially and that seems to dissipate as it's used. I like the Rottenstone mix best--I heat the walnut oil in a double boiler, until the carnuba wax melts in it, and then stir it thoroughly for several minutes, and then add the Rottenstone in and stir the mix thoroughly and turn off the heat and continue stirring until the mix begins to thicken a good bit, pour it into tins and let it cool til set.

Don: Now that is an interesting looking recipe. I would never have thought to try walnut oil and carnuba. With all that carnuba, I'm guessing that you go ahead and use this mixture as your final finish? Also, does it require setting a piece aside to dry for some period of time (due to the walnut oil)...or does the friction during application serve as your cure?

 

[Donovan Bailey]

You might want to try wet sanding with oil, I think the effect is similar to these grit/wax compounds. I dry sand for the coarse grits and switch to wet sanding for 240 grit through 400. I usually use walnut oil, which becomes the first layer in your finish. Unlike mineral oil, walnut oil hardens (cures) and you can put oil based finishes on top, although frequently it cures very slowly, up to several weeks. You can accelerate the curing through heat and/or sunlight. Heat can come from friction while on the lathe, or from my kitchen oven set to "warm". I have also tried wet sanding with tung oil, I use Corey's tung oil thinned with citrus.. There are some videos by Doctor's Woodshop on wet sanding.

Thanks, Mike: I went through a wet sanding binge for a couple of months. I tried wet sanding about every oil that the good Doctor makes, Mike Mahoney's walnut oil, off-the-shelf walnut oil from Walmart, etc. I'd like to, but I can't fall in love with walnut oil because it takes such a long time to cure...plus I like a little more shine on my stuff than what I can get out of it. However, I do love wet sanding and about the best lubricant I have found so far is that orange/citrus cleaner I get from Costco. It does the job (makes sand paper more efficient, kills the dust problem, wipes off for just about any finish after allowing to dry just a little bit) and it is in a price range that nicely suits my wallet tolerance. Again...thank you for the input. I've never baked a piece so far but you have me thinking about it.

 

[Don C Davis]

Donovan, It depends on the wood as to whether this mix serves as my finish--but often it does--I use lambswool pads and burnish it heavily on the lathe. My mentor uses straight Carnuba applied directly to his turnings, and uses a microfiber cloth to polish them up on his lathe. The Carnuba polishes up nicely and the Walnut Oil does get hard when you apply enough friction, so it makes a nice finishing product. I sand through 320 and then use the paste and it seems to get out scratches left by 320-at least to my satisfaction. I like not sanding so much, and I like using Walnut oil--knowing it hardens makes me feel better about it as the oil component. Amazon is great as you can order all of the ingredients there--and I'm a Prime member--so no freight!!

 

[Donovan Bailey]

Donovan, It depends on the wood as to whether this mix serves as my finish--but often it does--I use lambswool pads and burnish it heavily on the lathe. My mentor uses straight Carnuba applied directly to his turnings, and uses a microfiber cloth to polish them up on his lathe. The Carnuba polishes up nicely and the Walnut Oil does get hard when you apply enough friction, so it makes a nice finishing product. I sand through 320 and then use the paste and it seems to get out scratches left by 320-at least to my satisfaction. I like not sanding so much, and I like using Walnut oil--knowing it hardens makes me feel better about it as the oil component. Amazon is great as you can order all of the ingredients there--and I'm a Prime member--so no freight!!

Great info, Don. Thanks. I look certainly look forward to cooking me up a batch of this to give it a shot. What brand of walnut oil and carnuba wax do you normally use (that works for your process)?

 

[Don C Davis]

Donovan, I actually bought the Walnut Oil I use off of E-bay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/WALNUT-OIL-CARRIER-ORGANIC-COLD-PRESSED-100-PURE-REFINED-4-OZ-TO-1-GALLON/142089282235?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=441907864446&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
and the Carnuba Wax flakes I bought from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0155FDDPS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I think there are a lot of good sources for both--I like the E-bay seller I posted a link too, because they ship product with bottling/use dates---I just picked one of the Carnuba wax on Amazon that looked good to me--this one works very well. I'd be interested to see what you think if you make some and use it. The rottenstone I would go with (mostly based on price) is: https://www.amazon.com/J-Mosers-Che...s=Rottenstone&qid=1567793441&s=gateway&sr=8-9

Good luck to you brother!!