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Flattening “thin rings” for segmented bowls

Joined
Mar 18, 2015
Messages
2
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Location
Wilmington DE
When flattening rings for segmented bowls, I have been mounting the rings on the headstock of the lathe with a Cole Jaw, and then use sandpaper on flat disc to flatten the rings at low speed. The disc has a handle on the back which allows to me apply even pressure while the sanding. I usually scribble pencil marks across the surface of the ring and sand until they are gone. Although not the fastest method, it has worked really well for me.

The one place where I run into problems with this method is when I try to flatten thin rings, usually less than 1/2” high. The lugs on the Cole Jaw extend higher than the ring preventing me from applying the disc. I am looking for suggestions on how one might flatten thin rings.
 

john lucas

AAW Forum Expert
Joined
Apr 26, 2004
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Location
Cookeville, TN
double stick tape works great. You do have to center it some way. I usually simply draw rings on my wasteblock and center by eye. It's not critical. After I get that side sanded flat I use a thin piece of wire stretched between 2 wooden handles to sort of saw through the tape. If the ring is small and 1/4" thick or more a thin butcher knife works well. For really thin rings the wire works much better. It doesn't take much tape. Maybe 4 or 5 small pieces.
 
Joined
Mar 18, 2015
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Location
Wilmington DE
Thanks John, Using double stick tape is a good idea. I’ll give it a try. I had thought about tape, but was worried about damaging the ring when trying to pry it off. Using wire sounds like the solution.
 
Joined
Nov 8, 2013
Messages
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Location
Sullivan, Maine
I use all the tricks. Flatten it on the lathe with a sanding block as you do. Prior to all that, however, I've used a large Jet sanding drum to get the thickness I want. And that, usually, flattens things to the point that there's little sanding required. However, we all know, that anytime you put tools to a piece of wood on the lathe, it heats. When it heats, it tends to LOOSE moisture. As it looses moisture, there's movement and that may require additional flattening. So, use all the tricks.

If you try the double sticky tape, DO NOT use carpet tape. It isn't strong enough and you won't like sweeping up pieces of your ring. Get the good stuff. It's more expensive but it WORKS.

Good luck.
 
Joined
Nov 8, 2013
Messages
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Location
Sullivan, Maine
John,
I know you do a lot of teaching. Have you ever had someone ask a question so basic that you opened your mouth to answer and couldn't think of the answer? There are some things we do that are so automatic we don't remember why. So, I'll forgive you for forgetting the description of the double sticky tape. Sooner or later, I'll say something dumb that you'll have to forgive me for. But now that you've admitted your mistake, which is something you should NEVER do, be prepared to have it come back to haunt you. What are friends for, if not to keep you on your toes. Other than raising the urinals, there's no other way. Hehehe.
 

john lucas

AAW Forum Expert
Joined
Apr 26, 2004
Messages
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Location
Cookeville, TN
Hey at my age I can barely remember what I had for breakfast. Some techniques I haven't done in years simply because my turning moved in other directions. I built a flat wood project for Christmas (don't tell anyone). It was a jewelry cabinet for my wife. Man did I struggle. I made so many stupid mistakes. was able to correct or work around all of them but it makes you realize when you don't do something for a while there is a re learning curve.
 
Joined
Oct 26, 2017
Messages
9
Likes
1
Location
Council Bluffs, Iowa
When flattening rings for segmented bowls, I have been mounting the rings on the headstock of the lathe with a Cole Jaw, and then use sandpaper on flat disc to flatten the rings at low speed. The disc has a handle on the back which allows to me apply even pressure while the sanding. I usually scribble pencil marks across the surface of the ring and sand until they are gone. Although not the fastest method, it has worked really well for me.

The one place where I run into problems with this method is when I try to flatten thin rings, usually less than 1/2” high. The lugs on the Cole Jaw extend higher than the ring preventing me from applying the disc. I am looking for suggestions on how one might flatten thin rings.

could you shim between the face of the cole jaw and the ring to stand the ring off to clear the lugs? the shim should not be in contact with the lugs (slightly less diameter)
 
Joined
Feb 16, 2008
Messages
125
Likes
79
Location
Norristown, pa
When flattening rings for segmented bowls, I have been mounting the rings on the headstock of the lathe with a Cole Jaw, and then use sandpaper on flat disc to flatten the rings at low speed. The disc has a handle on the back which allows to me apply even pressure while the sanding. I usually scribble pencil marks across the surface of the ring and sand until they are gone. Although not the fastest method, it has worked really well for me.

The one place where I run into problems with this method is when I try to flatten thin rings, usually less than 1/2” high. The lugs on the Cole Jaw extend higher than the ring preventing me from applying the disc. I am looking for suggestions on how one might flatten thin rings.
You could also mount a disk with sandpaper on the head end and hold the rings to it. I have used mdf and plywood with a Fromica covering to hold sand paper. I use spray adhesive on the Formica and 4 to 6" strip sand paper at slow speed.
Cons: occasionally need band aids.
 
Joined
Jul 19, 2018
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Location
Ponsford, MN
I purchased a 16/32 SuperMax drum sander and I have been able to flatten rings down to 1/8". The most important thing is to glue the segments on a flat surface, tighten the band clamp, then quickly hammer the joints into alignment and finally wipe off the excess glue with a wet rag. The excess glue if not removed will gum up the sand paper on the drum. The sander came with 80 grit paper which worked fine but when that wore out I replaced it with 150 grit and that works and gives a better finish. The SuperMax I believe is the only drum sander with load control so if you try to take to much at once the feed belt slows down. This method for me gives accurately flat rings with no further sanding needed and the fit between rings gives joints almost invisible except for the difference in wood grain and color.
 
Joined
Feb 26, 2019
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Location
Lebanon, Missouri
When I was doing segmented stuff, I took the easy way out for thin rings - I laminated them to an adjacent thicker ring stock before cutting segments. Depends on who you are trying to impress - no one but a segmented turner will notice.
 
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