Best Finish to use

[Paul Grenier]

I just finished a vase shaped end grain hollow form out of Western Red Cedar approximately 9 1/2" tall by about 6" diameter and was wondering what finish is apt to look the best. The wood is a very even brown color but being an end grain hollow form, I'm concerned that my usual oil finish might make the top of the vase look way too dark compared to the rest of the piece. I've not had any experience with working Western Red Cedar so I'm looking for suggestions.

 

[Mark Wollschlager]

I did a piece like that in our local red cedar 15 years ago and finished it with a wipe on poly from Minwax.
The colors have remained good, some browning of the reds, and not too shiny.
Not sure if that formula is still available.

 

[Tim Connell]

If you can't find Minwax wipe on buy the regular and dilute it with up to 50% naptha or mineral spirits. That's all they do to get the wipe on formulation. Much cheaper to do it yourself.

 

[Gerald Lawrence]

I do not prefer to work with cedar but of the ones I have done see very little color change with shellac as a sealer. Lacquer as finish coat works well. I discovered that lacquer as primer on cedar may cause the finish to years later curdle and crack so now I use the shellac as sealer and no problem. Oh yes that is with the local red cedar.

 

[John Torchick]

I found Min-Wax WOP at Lowe's.

 

[Arkriver]

Is this a game of mixed up common names? You said Western Red Cedar but described it as brown not red. You may have true cedar and not juniper aka cedar. There are also junipers that are brown and not commonly called cedar. I think any of the finishes that have been mentioned will work regardless of the color. Allyn

 

[Paul Grenier]

Is this a game of mixed up common names? You said Western Red Cedar but described it as brown not red. You may have true cedar and not juniper aka cedar. There are also junipers that are brown and not commonly called cedar. I think any of the finishes that have been mentioned will work regardless of the color. Allyn

It has the smell of cedar when I was cutting it and when I googled Western Red Cedar, it had pictures of cedar that was brown. Too many tree's are called the same thing when they may not be at all, or are called by different names in different parts of the country.

 

[Dave Landers]

I've done a few small things from <some variety of> cedar. Smelled so good, I couldn't bring myself to put any finish on them at all.

 

[Tom Gall]

As far as I know, Western and Eastern Red Cedar are two different animals, Western is brown, light and fairly soft - like my cedar shingle siding (mfg. in British Columbia) and trim that I installed 35 years ago. I'm sure it would suck up an oil finish like a sponge. Probably a quick drying surface finish (shellac or lacquer) would be best. Eastern is heavier, tighter grained, and mostly red colored with white sapwood - most with an undulating (?) curvy circumference. I have 4-5 in my backyard.

 

[Rick Crawford]

It bleaches nicely, also takes Fiebings alcohol based black leather dye very well...burnish afterward for an interesting effect.

 

[John Tisdale]

I received some sage advice from a guy that does one-off executive furniture, conference room tables and reception areas - to my thinking he is best of the best.
He commented: "Dallas is full of seriously talented woodworkers - their problem is: their passion is woodworking - most hate finishing. They complete a piece and are anxious to get to the next. Finishing is an afterthought with materials readily available and easy to use (with little or no sanding)." He further stated, "I spend twice as much time finishing as I do making each piece - that's why all my customers come to me".
Advice you can take to the bank.

I love these kinda posts - lots of valuable advice that can go into any toolbox - tribal knowledge from different tribes - I feel privileged to have access to this forum - thanks guys.

 

[Paul Grenier]

I ended up using Steve Cook's Tung Oil and it turned a beautiful medium dark shade of brown except for the top of the hollow form which was all end grain. That portion is at least 1 full shade darker than the rest of the turning. I'll put Renaissance Wax on it and hand buff it when it's more or less cured. Thanks for all of the feedback.