Hey turners,I got a question.Are there any #4 or #5 jaws that would fit on a talon chuck?Getting pretty tired of spitting recesses and snapped tenonstryin to use #3 jaws on 14-15" green bowls.
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Larger jaws
- Thread starter Dale Lynch
- Start date
go bigger and get the Stronghold chuck, you are at the upper limit of the Talon
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2004
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- Lakeland, Florida
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- www.hockenberywoodturning.com
You might consider using a faceplate.
I turn lots of 14-16” NE bowls from green wood using a 2.5” tenon.
A larger tenon would be better for this size piece.
However there is never any danger of breaking the tenon with my turning technique.
If your are breaking tenons either you’re technique is too aggressive, your tenons are poorly made or your wood selection is not solid enough for a tenon.
most tenon failures are due either to a catch or a poorly made tenon.
Be sure there is a flat seated on the top of the jaws when the tenon is in the chuck. Be sure the tenon profile matches the jaw profile.
I turn lots of 14-16” NE bowls from green wood using a 2.5” tenon.
A larger tenon would be better for this size piece.
However there is never any danger of breaking the tenon with my turning technique.
If your are breaking tenons either you’re technique is too aggressive, your tenons are poorly made or your wood selection is not solid enough for a tenon.
most tenon failures are due either to a catch or a poorly made tenon.
Be sure there is a flat seated on the top of the jaws when the tenon is in the chuck. Be sure the tenon profile matches the jaw profile.
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Thanks for the replies fellas.
I suppose my technique my be the culprit,I like to take an inch or more at a time.That's why I think I need bigger jaws. to withstand the forces at play.
I suppose my technique my be the culprit,I like to take an inch or more at a time.That's why I think I need bigger jaws. to withstand the forces at play.
Do you mean that your shavings are one inch wide? I can snap off tenons if I get too aggressive on softer woods like Milo, I have to remind myself to take it easy and enjoy the process. My Stubby 1000 with a 3HP motor is super strong.
Sorry I was talking about the total amt.Shavings are 1/2 -5/8".Workin on my last big chunck now,I'll try and slow my feed rate down and enjoy the process like you suggest.Don't know what I'm workin with,It blew down in a storm last week or so.
Taking off the sharp edge of the tenon helps not to shear it off. I say it helps because if you are too aggressive you can snap it. Most lathes will bog down before letting you take such a big shaving, others like mine will flip the lathe rather than bog down., a 3hp is not for everyone. All woods are different, I have never snapped off a Koa tenon, or Lychee, but I have snapped several Milo tenons.
I did that this time after watching Stuarts video on tenons again.So far so good.My lathe only has a 1.5hp motor but on the 0-330 pulley its got plenty of grunt.Starts to bog down some on the 700 pulley if i really get after it.
Not being a bowl guy, the following is a question rather than a suggestion: Why not a big steady-rest?
There are chucks out there that have larger jaws.
But, simple answer may just be use a 6" faceplate.
Most likely the safest way to rough out bowls.
But, simple answer may just be use a 6" faceplate.
Most likely the safest way to rough out bowls.
Because I don't have one.It sounds like a good idea though.
I rough out the outside with a plate,Problems arise when I'm doing the inside.Like others have said it's probably more because of rushing than the tenon.I only get a hour here and there so I have to push it pretty hard to get anything done.