Preparing Logs

[AZSalsman]

This is a question particularly for anyone familiar with the dry, hot Arizona climate but anyone might have insight.

Was was recently given lots of freshly cut log sections (olivewood, and a couple others I have yet to identify). I have been busy puting on a coat of Anchor Seal (End Grain Seal) before they start checking.

I also don't have much room for storage except outside where it will all get plenty of sunshine.

Anyway, what I would like to know if I am going to run into difficulties keeping my log pile exposed to the harsh, dry kiln of a climate we have - especially when it reaches 110 degrees during the summer months - or should I seriously invest in some sort of tarp I can through over it to eep it out of direct sunlight?

I did notice that the sealer seemed to "melt" today when the day warmed up. Is this normal and is it something that I need to address?

I am still new at this aspect of the woodturning process and I don't want to loose these logs due to improper drying.

Thanks.

 

[Wipedout]

First - yes - you want to keep them out of direct sunlight. So a tarp will help.

Also normally you wouldnt want them directly on the ground either. Im not sure how much of an issue that will be in AZ but keeping them on the ground here sucks in moisture creating rot and draws in bugs.

In your climate anchor seal may be a little too weak - but im not sure - maybe another dry hot climate person can join in on that.

Anytime you dry logs you will always risk losing them to checking. So try and give yourself enough extra on each end to cut off and worse case if you loose some you can always cut it into smaller blanks - many of my bowl logs have turned into vase and bottle stopper blanks

Good luck

Robert

 

[robo hippy]

For me, if I was there instead of in the great Northwet, I would have a separate storage shed that was sealed and had high humidity. Since that isn't an option for you, the second would be to have a tarp on the ground, and one covering the wood. Throw a bunch of wet shavings on the pile, and even keep the pile of shavings wet. The higher the humidity, the better. I don't like to water store the logs because they loose a lot of color that way. Maybe store in the garage which isn't as hot, but still pretty dry. Do take the logs and at least split them down the pith of the logs as this will relieve some of the stress. Maybe even double coat the ends of the logs. Maybe store in plastic bagw with wet shavings, and cover with a white tarp on the north side of the house.
robo hippy

 

[Max Taylor]

drying logs

Ditto to what others have said. In addition, get a couple metal t posts used for fencing and stake at each end of the pile. Wire a 2x6 edgeways from one post and stretch the white tarp over it, making a tent . Dont lay the tarp on top of3 the wood, too hot. This gives ventilation at the ends. assuming you are putting a* white[?] tarp on the ground. I have been to Phoenix and I know how hot it gets.Best of luck. dustpan.

 

[Mike Vickery]

Ian
Some wood takes the AZ heat better then others, but all of them should be kept out of the sun.

You allready got some good advise on possible ways to store it outside. Your best bet thought is to store it as rough outs. Once summer comes along it is a killer trying to keep wood from cracking.

 

[waltben]

You might try some exterior latex paint for the ends - a reject bucket from HD or Lowe's is only $5 or so for a good brand. I completely covered my first pile of logs after putting them on 4x4's, on my asphalt driveway and it all spalted from one hot and wet summer. The tarp acted like a pressure cooker and kept all the moisture in. Where you are, this might not be a bad thing and could keep the wood from drying too quickly. It will still need the tent concept previously mentioned, but even leaving the ends open may be too much. Where I'm at, it'll get over 90, but also with a lot of humidity.

 

[KEW]

You've received lots of good information, but I think Mike Vickery gave you the best answer (although it really wasn't an answer to your question).
Take all of the mentioned strategies which you can and hope for the best. The best bet is to rough-turn as many blanks as quickly as possible, then anchor seal and double-bag them!
I was impressed with the dry air in Arizona. The wife and I pulled out a loaf of bread and laid out a few slices for sandwiches. It was maybe 5 minutes before we made the sandwiches and in that time, the bread had effectively become crunchy toast!

 

[Martin Braun]

I'm going to be a bit of a downer, so my apologies up front. I had mixed success with olive logs, and that was with anchor sealed ends on the floor of my garage, with little air flow. My garage is not air conditioned, but it's usually 15 deg or more below the outside ambient air temp in the summer thanks to the A/C heat exchanger residing in the garage.

As Mike mentioned, I would highly recommend roughing the blanks now and storing in the house or in the garage. Even some of the blanks that I hollowed green, and stored in plastic bags in the garage had a bit of checking. In retrospect, I should have put them in better plastic bags, or anchorsealed & bagged. Yes, roughed out blanks in plastic grocery bags do dry out here.

So storing olive outside in the shade is probably not going to work for you unless you are into spindle turning, and can split the wood along the checks/cracks with wedge & sledgehammer. The only wood out here that I have had success with drying outside in the shade is mesquite. For bigger logs, there will still be checking but it only extends a few inches in from the ends. I don't do it now, but for some limbs that I'm drying for a rustic furniture project.

Good luck!

 

[MichaelMouse]

Before Hoadley's Understanding Wood or the internet, where you can get the information free at http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr113/fplgtr113.htm I used an old transmitter box as my humidity closet. Imagine anything which would keep the air and the moisture it got from the logs from moving away rapidly would be a big help in trying to bring the RH down gently. It's not the heat, as they say, but the humidity that counts. One of those poly sheds or "instant garages" would serve, surely.

Bringing things indoors will still require protection unless you've got one of those old swamp coolers instead of air conditioning, so in your climate I would consider one of the wood waxes on the roughs I'd be turning as quickly as I could. Get a humidity gage and use it to help you know when you need to add a pan of water or open a vent a bit more.

 

[Gretch Flo]

tarp danger?

should I seriously invest in some sort of tarp I can through over it to eep it out of direct sunlight?


Thanks.

would rattle snakes be a problem Gretch

 

[Martin Braun]

Anything can hide out in wood piles, scorpions (most likely), black widows (pretty common), rattlesnakes (not so much in the 'burbs), tarantulas (pretty much harmless). Closer to Tuscon, Gilla monsters are more likely to be roaming around.

There's other kinds of 'fun' out here as well. Brown recluse spiders (rare at least where I am). In the four corners region, hantavirus spread by mice.

 

[Turnedoutright]

Utah drying

I live in Utah and have constant fun drying wood!
Here is what I have found.

• The challenge is not getting them to dry, its slowing the drying process.
• Every species of wood will act different.
• End sealing will not necessarily stop logs from cracking all the way through, especially large ones.
• I use cheap wax (from canning section of grocery store) to seal endgrain for pieces that I can get into the old frying pan I use to melt the wax. You can also brush on the hot wax for bigger peices
• Wrapping them in cellophane will slow down the process but cause mildew and spalting (sometimes its a good thing).
• Put them in a paper bag or box taped shut. The cardboard will slow the drying in a controlled way.
• My most consistent and painless approach: Build a kiln (of sorts) with shelfs and cover it completely with plastic, on all sides. It doesn't have to be airtight. Stack the wood inside with a hygrometer. The wet wood will create a moist environment (40%RH) and be self regulating. Check it and open it periodically if the wood isn't drying. Turn blanks as soon as possible and get them in the kiln.
• When you turn a piece check the moisture content. If it is above 15% keep it in a paper bag for a few months after turning.
• I keep my kiln in the garage, I recommend indoors but if you are outdoors it should be protected from sunlight.

In your case I would place the kiln outdoors and cover it with non-transparent plastic. I would watch it closely for condensation. Mine doesn't as it is indoors.

www.turnedoutright.com

 

[waltben]

Speaking of cracking - I've had good success keeping raw logs from cracking by chainsawing them in half lengthwise (making log halves, which you've got to do anyway to make bowl blanks) and then stacking them for drying. This relieves a lot of the internal stress. Maple, cherry, pecan and sycamore log halves up to 36" wide have dried very well for me this way. Only problem species has been oak, but it's a problem for everyone.