Cheap face plates
Over the past few years I have been successful in adapting multi-layered/reinforced ply to make faceplates that are as cheap as the cost of buying a steel nut. The kind of construction material that I am using forms the vertical/center of a new home roof peak. The material has about a dozen layers of thin wood glued together under pressure and has a red material face. These pieces are right at 2in thick. I purchase steel nuts that match my lathe (PM3520) from catalogue stores and mount the nut in the multi-ply. Simply cut a square of material, set the center point, place the nut and scribe a line. Once the line is scribed you simply drill a hole that leaves the points of the nut alone. Cut those with a good sharp (junky ) chisel and force the nut into the material -- only 3/4 of the way down. You want the flat face of the nut to protrude enough that you can get a wrench/pliers on the nut if needed. A good mix of epoxy sets the nut, and a rest overnight will allow you to trim off the corners and spin the new face plate on the lathe in the morning. True up the circle and make sure the face runs true as well. Then you have a nice clean surface to work with for CA glue or conventional wood glue. You can also make it large enough that you drill holes for mounting other capabilities, ie, cork facings for turning bottoms of bowls. A cheap solution to a multitude of challenges! Phil
Over the past few years I have been successful in adapting multi-layered/reinforced ply to make faceplates that are as cheap as the cost of buying a steel nut. The kind of construction material that I am using forms the vertical/center of a new home roof peak. The material has about a dozen layers of thin wood glued together under pressure and has a red material face. These pieces are right at 2in thick. I purchase steel nuts that match my lathe (PM3520) from catalogue stores and mount the nut in the multi-ply. Simply cut a square of material, set the center point, place the nut and scribe a line. Once the line is scribed you simply drill a hole that leaves the points of the nut alone. Cut those with a good sharp (junky ) chisel and force the nut into the material -- only 3/4 of the way down. You want the flat face of the nut to protrude enough that you can get a wrench/pliers on the nut if needed. A good mix of epoxy sets the nut, and a rest overnight will allow you to trim off the corners and spin the new face plate on the lathe in the morning. True up the circle and make sure the face runs true as well. Then you have a nice clean surface to work with for CA glue or conventional wood glue. You can also make it large enough that you drill holes for mounting other capabilities, ie, cork facings for turning bottoms of bowls. A cheap solution to a multitude of challenges! Phil
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