faceshields

[gran]

In this months FWW there were a couple of new style faceshields .

Jackson " The Shield"
http://www.discountsafetygear.com/jatshclvi.html

And
UVEX Bionic
http://www.jacquescoulombe.com/uvex_bionic_shield.htm

Does anyone have any experience with them?

 

[Brodie Brickey]

Face Shield Choices

I haven't used either of those masks. I originally bought a regular hard hat and attachable face shield for my wood turning. It won't handle a 50 lb big block of wood coming at me, but everything else will be fine. With a block that size, I should really know what I'm doing, have the tail stock up to support and all the other things. The shield will keep my face from being torn up, but it won't keep me from breaking bones.

I've recently purchased a chainsaw hat/shield/ear muff combination (Stihl $42.00) in my area. It handles the noise from the dust collector, the sander and those other noises. I would recommend going this route until you're ready to pony up the big bucks for a Trend airshield or something similar which will also filter out small dust particles. You can also use it with your chainsaw, or take the shield off and where it when you're operating your other machinery.

The only alternative option I've seen that might work better, is the hockey mask with a clear shield on it. They do sell them but you're talking about $85 or so by the time you count face shield and helmet. You also have the issue of fogging, but you have that with everything except a Trend or similar mask that pumps air onto your face.

Brodie

 

[dkulze]

I could not bring up a picture on either but can offer quick advice. What you want is a basic faceshield available at any decent hardware store that has a hard polycarbonate shield. The ones with thin, flexable sheilds won't work for woodturning. They protect fine for chips and dust but, when that chunk of wood cuts loose unexpectadly, you want solid plastic between you and it.

Example: Two weeks ago, while demonstrating at the local state fair, a nice piece of hard maple with a small bark inclusion came apart on me. Turns out the small bark inclusion expanded immediately below the surface and completely split the block of wood except for about 1/4 inch all around, so as to not be visible at any point but that one. I had only gotten as far as roughing it round when I cut away sufficient wood for it to come apart. I'm estimating that about 2lbs of wood came off at 800 rpm. Hit me square in the faceshield, deformed the headstrap until the edge of the shield hit my forehead leaving a shallow cut, and flinging it completely off my head. Rang my bell a bit and scared the crap out of me but didn't hurt me.

Soft faceshield would have likely ended with a broken nose and good possibility of broken orbital/cheek/skull, not to mention possibility of blinding myself or getting a concussion.

Doesn't take fancy or expensive to save you, just solid. You're better off with a $15 solid faceshield from Home Despot than a $400 filter/shield combination with a thin face.

Dietrich

 

[Steve Worcester]

None of them will save you from the 50lb block, but they might blur the line between life and death.

 

[TurningDog]

None of them will save you from the 50lb block, but they might blur the line between life and death.

here here on the difference between lifeand death. Use your tailstock and a near zero starting point when turning anything that big. And if you don't have a near zero starting point you have no business turning anything that big in the first place.

It is good to be back from post surgery vacation.

 

[gran]

I currently have a faceshield but it tends to distort things a bit. i was hoping that a different style would be better. I'm not trying to turn the 50 lbs chunks but still I would like to keep my nose pointing in the same direction it is now

 

[PapaDoc]

More and more experienced turners are urging, pleading with folks to use full face protection. Dave Lancaster, Al Stirt, Bill Grumbine....all light years in front of me in skill and all recommending....demanding use of full face shields in their classes.
I think I get it.

 

[TurningDog]

More and more experienced turners are urging, pleading with folks to use full face protection. Dave Lancaster, Al Stirt, Bill Grumbine....all light years in front of me in skill and all recommending....demanding use of full face shields in their classes.
I think I get it.

Full face protection isn't all that expensive either. a good OSHA aproved polycarbonate shield with replaceable shield can be had at HF for about $13 or 1/2 that on sale. This is the same one that sells at loews and Ace hardware for over $25

 

[gran]

I use them when I turn and a good bit at work but... All the ones I've used have a lot of distortion when I look through them. Is there a better one for that?

 

[TurningDog]

I use them when I turn and a good bit at work but... All the ones I've used have a lot of distortion when I look through them. Is there a better one for that?

are you wearing glasses underneath? I have prescription safety glasses I wear and don't have any perceptible distortion. Faceshield distortion is often a sign you need glasses or don't have the right script for them.

 

[Gil Jones]

My Trend seems to be rather free of distortion,
at least in the normal line of vision.

 

[Mark Mandell]

Let's remember that if that blank (5 or 50 lbs) is going to launch, centrifugal force will put its line of travel at about 90* to the axis of the lathe. Now why in the world a turner would be standing there is sort of beyond me. I work from the tailstock end or from the opposite direction. I never, NEVER, stand in that Launch Zone. Yes, I've had pieces dismount. Yes, I was wearing a shield. But the shield didn't help or hurt because the piece went past me rather than through me. Interestingly, I've never had a big "chunk" (50-150 lbs) let go, I'm sure because that tailstock is always engaged until the very last. My launches have been for vacuum failure and a fractured waste block that separated leaving a piece in the chuck and my piece in several pieces on the floor.

The flip-up lexan shield has been fine for me to keep chips and heavy shavings out of my eyes and nose. If you want to go the body armor route and pay the big bucks ($500-1,000) for ventilated hard hats to make yourself feel safer, that's probably fine as it will boost your self confidence. Just don't think they really protect you more than my $20 job if you insist on standing in the line of fire and don't use your tailstock.

mm

 

[gran]

I do wear glasses underneath as well. I'm still learning to deal with the curse of bifocals so that could be part of it. :cool2:

 

[Griesbach]

Ahh...the curse of bifocals, Gran. Are you also relearning how to go down stairs?

 

[Bill Grumbine]

Full face protection isn't all that expensive either. a good OSHA aproved polycarbonate shield with replaceable shield can be had at HF for about $13 or 1/2 that on sale. This is the same one that sells at loews and Ace hardware for over $25

I mentioned this when I was down in GA last week and where I got to meet PapaDoc (David) for the first time, although we have corresponded many times in the past. Cheap shields are fine for most things, and I like to compare the more expensive shields to insurance deductibles and the pain and suffering of reconstructive surgery, dentalwork, etc. I personally know several people who have gone through that process because they did not think it would happen to them.

A good face shield is imperative, because there is always that chance of something going wrong, no matter how well we prepare. It is cheap compared to the cost of having your face rebuilt, not to mention the huge embarrassment of advertising for all to see that you got smacked by a piece of wood. And of course, that still does not mention the pain and suffering involved, as well as having to eat your dinner through a straw for weeks on end.

I use an Airstream air helmet now made by 3M. It is old enough that mine was built by Racal. I paid something like $525 for it almost nine years ago. It is even more expensive now. But, that cost is amortized over those nine years, and even counting replacement parts, it is still very much worthwhile. It was not easy for me to afford then, and still not now, but I would not be without it. I don't think it is the only choice, but it is the nicest as far as I am concerned.

Students who come to me are required to use at least a shield available at the local woodworking or big box stores. I have even gotten thank you notes from a couple who wrote several weeks or months afterward to tell me that the shield had prevented injury for them.

I don't know anything about the ones mentioned in the OP, but some sort of shield is essential.

Bill

 

[Bill Grumbine]

The flip-up lexan shield has been fine for me to keep chips and heavy shavings out of my eyes and nose. If you want to go the body armor route and pay the big bucks ($500-1,000) for ventilated hard hats to make yourself feel safer, that's probably fine as it will boost your self confidence. Just don't think they really protect you more than my $20 job if you insist on standing in the line of fire and don't use your tailstock.

mm

Does that come with breathing protection too?

 

[Mark Mandell]

Does that come with breathing protection too?

Sort of. The breathing protection recommended by the ENT specialist I consulted for a sinus infection, namely a quantity of simple filter masks with the rubber band things, came in the same box. However, they were sold separately and batteries were not included.

 

[NBHowe]

I use the Aircap II from Woodcrafters, it has built in air filters and a face shield. Cost around $180. Used it for about 2years now, will not turn on my lathe without it. It gives me clean air a good amount of face protection.
Nigel

 

[Gil Jones]

Bifocals

Gran, I too wear bifocals, and I have found that all I need to do is tell my eye Doc (Denny Vision in Dothan) the distance that I want the near vision to focus at (in my case I ask for 19"), and I do not have to get so close to the spinning wood to see it clearly.

 

[gran]

Thanks Gil. They already have my info on file. Maybe they can make me some without another visit. I've been doing the bifocal thing for a while but some parts of it(walking etc) are still a challenge some days. :cool2:

 

[Bernie Weishapl]

Gran, I too wear bifocals, and I have found that all I need to do is tell my eye Doc (Denny Vision in Dothan) the distance that I want the near vision to focus at (in my case I ask for 19"), and I do not have to get so close to the spinning wood to see it clearly.

Gil and Gran wait till you get trifocals. Actually I got trifocals for working on a computer all the time (which is 19" to 24" away and progresive lens) and find that they work rather well for wood turning.

 

[bonsaipeter]

Face Shields

A sales rep. for safty equipment gave me a UVEX Bionic full face shield. I like it a lot and use it. It is light weight on the head and yet very sturdily made and should protect you well from most flying debris. Visibility is very good and it is comfortable. I would strongly recommend it.

Peter Toch

 

[pfduffy]

Face protection

The ultimate protector is a welders mask! You can see thu the little window quite well and be completely unafraid. Years ago, when I knew nothing of turning, I had the priveledge of using my welders mask and it saved me many an injury. Try it for fun and pleasure, and relaxation! Phil

 

[Joe Fisher]

Let's remember that if that blank (5 or 50 lbs) is going to launch, centrifugal force will put its line of travel at about 90* to the axis of the lathe. Now why in the world a turner would be standing there is sort of beyond me.

Further remember that when a piece launches, a tool is usually involved. It can lever the piece in almost any direction, especially a small to medium sized peice, like if you're parting into a piece between centers - you leave a small tenon and finish with a saw, right? Then you accidentally go a little deeper than you meant to, the piece binds on the parting tool and the two halves go off in different directions, one at your forehead.

Just saying that no matter where you stand, a faceshield is still a required piece of equipment I know you weren't implying otherwise in your post, I just want to make sure it doesn't get interpreted that way.

-Joe

 

[Frank Alvarez]

No one has mentioned the use of the metal cages that come with several of the lathes. I have a clear plastic enclosure under the cage( made from a big pretzel bottle, so I can see thru it) that is attached to my vacuum system so it collects the chips and dust as well as protects my fragile parts from flying chunks. I also wear goggles with this set up. It seems to work pretty well and seems safe. Comments?

 

[Bill Boehme]

The Jackson shield seems to have a major problem in that it does not cover the forehead. Also, in case of an impact there is no structural attachment to the head to absorb the energy -- only the elastic strap and the shield around the eyes.

Bill

 

[Mark Mandell]

Further remember that when a piece launches, a tool is usually involved. It can lever the piece in almost any direction, especially a small to medium sized peice, like if you're parting into a piece between centers - you leave a small tenon and finish with a saw, right? Then you accidentally go a little deeper than you meant to, the piece binds on the parting tool and the two halves go off in different directions, one at your forehead.

Just saying that no matter where you stand, a faceshield is still a required piece of equipment I know you weren't implying otherwise in your post, I just want to make sure it doesn't get interpreted that way.

-Joe

I wear a face shield whan anything is spinning on the lathe; even while sanding.

 

[dkulze]

Had that conversation with someone yesterday. When sanding, there's always the possibility that a catch, a slip, or simple persnickityness of the piece of wood will result in a blowup. Be smart. Keep the shield on till the lathe's stopped.

Dietrich

 

[Mark Wollschlager]

I use a face shield or my triton helmet most of the time.
Its a good thing.

I saw this maskhttp://www.garrettwade.com/jump.jsp?itemType=PRODUCT&itemID=107272
in the new Garrett wade catalog.
Don't know if it is a really good idea or a compromise of a good idea.
A face shield with a wire mesh body and a plastic insert at eye level.
It might help with the voice muffling mask syndrome during demos.

Mark.

 

[dkulze]

All I can picture is the lower edge of the eye shield cutting into my nose as it directs the chunk of wood downward to break my front teeth.

Dietrich

 

[bowlman]

Face Shields

I am gladdened by this thread in that I have advocated face protection ever since AAW was formed. I own and regularly use the Racal (now 3M) Airstream ... hardhat, hard face shield and clean air run by battery. The only time I don't use it is when I am turning dripping wet wood ... then I use a substantial face shield sine I don't have the dust to worry about.

I have also been heartened by hearing that many of the "big guns" have begun insisting that everyone wear face shields.

Besides, when I wear a face shield it serves 2 purposes ... it protects my face and protects anyone who is watching me by shielding their eyes from my ugly mug! :cool2:

 

[blackhorse]

How can I tell if the shield is polycarbonate? There is no wrting on my face shield.

Is the Trend shield polycarbonate?

BH

 

[underdog]

I gots a question about a Triton

I purchased a (slightly) used Triton from a buddy over on another site. It was in good condition except for a few marks I'll eventually buff out of the faceshield.

The ONLY thing I do not like about it is the fact that the air supply is anemic. If you compare specs with the Trend and other respirators, the airflow from the Triton comes out way on the bottom of the scale.

My question:

Is there a way to increase the airflow on the Triton?

I find myself fogging the shield much more often in this colder weather now. I have resorted to propping the shield fractionally open with some Romex wire just to keep the flow going. But that tends to let wood shavings and sawdust in....

 

[dkulze]

Blackhorse,

If the shield is preshaped and moderately thick, it is likely polycarbonite. Moderately thick means approx 1mm or more, though the 1mm ones are kinda flimsy.

Dietrich

 

[Mark Wollschlager]

The ONLY thing I do not like about it is the fact that the air supply is anemic. If you compare specs with the Trend and other respirators, the airflow from the Triton comes out way on the bottom of the scale.

My question:

Is there a way to increase the airflow on the Triton?

I find myself fogging the shield much more often in this colder weather now. I have resorted to propping the shield fractionally open with some Romex wire just to keep the flow going. But that tends to let wood shavings and sawdust in....

Did you get the airflow tester with it, a clear plastic tube with a white ball in it. If so, check the air flow. That checks the blower and filters.
It may be the filter cartridge needs replacement.
I have also read that where the hose joins the helmet in the back might be kinked, decreasing the airflow.

Mark.

 

[Jake Debski]

.

The ONLY thing I do not like about it is the fact that the air supply is anemic. If you compare specs with the Trend and other respirators, the airflow from the Triton comes out way on the bottom of the scale.

My question:

Is there a way to increase the airflow on the Triton?

....

If the filters are clean and the airflow tester shows airflow to be OK check the helmet. The exaust end, at the front of the helmet, may have gotten squeezed down somewhat. I've had that problem with mine and had to reopen the port. The newer Tritons have improved hoses from fan pack to helmet so if yours is older you should also check for a crushed or kinked hose.

 

[gran]

I decided to risk ordering on of Jacksons "the Shield"

It leaves a lot uncovered.