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Help a Newbie get set up with the right equipment!

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Greetings. I have been interested in woodturning for a few years and have grown tired of just watching videos about it on YouTube. I am ready to get started turning. I am looking for suggestions on equipment to get me started. I would like to start with some equipment that will take me through the beginner phase and still be useful as skill develops. I also would like to invest in equipment/tools that make me want to continue turning rather than cheap equipment that will be frustrating and be a turn-off to turning. I have a budget of about $2000 to get started. What do you recommend?
 
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That is a wide open question and has many parts.
1. what size lathe are you interested in
2. will need grinder and most will recommend a wolverine jig with it
3. Turning tools (wide open) will need bowl gouge, parting tool, spindle gouge and from there depends on what you turn
So you see the big question is which of these do we want to address? Maybe you could split your question into 2 to 4 parts.
 
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Gerald, thanks for the reply. As far as lathe size, I am most interested in a medium to full size lathe. I hope to do a mixture of things but would eventually like to turn bigger bowls. As far as tools, I would welcome any thoughts on a good way to get started (kit vs individual tools) especially if there are specific brands to avoid or really good ones. Essentially, if you had $2000 to get up and running with a medium/full size lathe, tools and any other necessary accessories how would you spend the money?
 

RichColvin

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Matthew,

Consider also used equipment. You might be able to get a solid lathe like a PowerMatic or a Nova that someone is looking to get rid of, but is in good shape. These things last a while, and it might help you get into a bigger machine easier.

I started on a Delta Midi Lathe, and only upgraded to a PowerMatic (new) much later. I can say that the bigger lathe makes it easier, but learning on a smaller one enabled me to get started.

Good luck,
Rich
 
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What hockenbery said. A chapter and an AAW membership are worth it! There were some lathes mentioned for sale at our meeting last night in Dalton, GA.
 
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Matthew,

As a relatively new guy (about 3+years) to woodturning, please let me share my experience. I am going to assume that you are like I was when I first started, not really sure what type of turning you are interested in, but want to try a little bit of everything (spindle, bowl, and hollow forms). So, based on that assumption, here are my recommendations.

Get a decent variable speed lathe. I started with a Delta 46-460, but would recommend the Jet VS 1224. This is a nice lathe and will handle projects up to 12” in diameter x 24” long. The cost should be around $850 or so.

Next you will next a scroll chuck. I have the Nova G3 and it is reasonably priced and accurate. The cost should be around $100 (on sale) to $130. You may want to purchase some different sized jaws, but that is not absolutely necessary when you first start off.

Now let’s talk about turning tools. I purchased Packard tools from Packard Woodworks because they were fairly priced and made out of M2 steel. I still use these tools today. A set of spindle tools (3/4” roughing gouge, 3/8”spindle gouge, 3/4’ skew, and a parting tool) will probably cost around $250. Adding a 1/2” bowl gouge, 1” square and a 1” round scraper will add about $200 more. This is a basic set to get you started on both spindle and bowl work. Talk with Allen at Packard and he will take time to help you pick the right tools.

You will have to sharpen your tools. I like the Rikon variable speed grinder with 8” wheels. You should be able to find it for about $150. You also should purchase the Wolverine varigrind system (they are a couple of others, but Wolverine seems to be the most popular). You should be able to find that system for around $200.

Get a good, comfortable face shield and and a OSHA approved dust mask/respirator. Wear these religiously when grinding your tools and turning. These should cost about $200.

If you add all this up, I should be close to your budget. These things would give you a good start on turning and many years of enjoyment. I just helped a new guy in our club get started. He purchased everything from Packard (Packard Woodworks is the store) and got a nice discount for a package deal. Craft Supplies is another very reputable store. You should call them and compare prices as well.

Many of the guys on this website have much more experience than me. Several have taught classes and given demos as well. Hopefully they will pitch in and cover anything I may have missed.

Last but not least, join a woodturning club in your area. That was the best thing I ever did. You will find that woodturners are some of the most helpful and friendly people you will ever meet. I learn something new at every meeting and several members have invited me over to their shops and taught me many things I would never have learned from YouTube.

Good luck. You find that woodturning is a wonderful hobby that will bring endless hours of enjoyment.
 
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Matthew, I echo what everyone else said about local clubs.

I think you can often times get a great deal on a used lathe, many will come with extras like chucks and turning tools. One lathe in particular comes to mind at or below your budget and that is the Jet 1642. If you have a little flexibility to your budget a pre-owned Powermatic 3520 would be a good option as well. I've turned on both and they are great lathes.
 
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I started by taking a class at woodcraft for $100. They taught me how to turn using carbide tools, they are open to teach with gouges.

With that, i started with Delta midi lathe and couple of carbide tools. I had a lot of fun starting out and turning small to medium bowls. This would keep you under $2k.

From there, i learned to use gouges and upgraded to large lathe, and grinder. This was probably around $6k investment.

I would start with midi lathe and see if you can take a class or meet with someone at your local club. If you can start with gouges, it would be best but you will need a grinder and sharpening sustem. Carbides are easy but limited and leave rough surface.

Turning in fun, you will find out quickly that your initial purchase is just a down payment.
 
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Keep your eyes open and look for an estate sale where you might be able to purchase a complete used package (lathe & accessories).
All of the accessories, lathe tools, chucks, face plates, steady rest, etc. can add up in cost. If you can negotiate a price on a complete package you can come out ahead by buying the complete package. If you join a club you might be able to find a lathe from one of the members, there are some clubs that own a number of "club" owned lathes and these can be rented for a reasonable cost until you find the lathe you really want. I would also look on Craigslist in your area for lathe listings each week you may see a posting in your area for a good quality lathe at a good price.
 
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Matthew, you've had really good responses above. I have 2 thoughts.

First, one rule of thumb for equipment is that the lathe accounts for about half the cost.

Second, I strongly encourage newbies to use the help of an experienced turner. With one on one help, you will make progress much, much faster than you can alone. Fortunately for you, the Savannah River turners is in your neighborhood. https://savannahriverwoodturners.org/ Somebody in the club is just waiting to hear from you! They can also give you some tips on where to find bargains on equipment.
 
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Again, the nearest club. Most clubs have a mentor list, and for people like me, I enjoy the teaching as much as I do the turning. Most clubs have work shops as well so you get more hands on instruction.

robo hippy
 
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A lot of good advice above. Buying a lathe is the beginning. There's chucks, tools, gizmos and chatchkes as well as wood and even sandpaper to buy.

When it comes to lathes I suggest you take a look at the Nova 1624. I am very happy with mine and have since added the DVR upgrade. The base 1624 is on sale at Woodcraft this month for $950. See how it compares to other models.

I am a big advocate of carbide tools. There is a great deal you can create with a smaller number of tools and the learning curve is much shorter. You can still use HSS tools, but climb that learning curve at your own pace.

You are going to find your own path on this journey so you should view all the advice you get as just that, advice or that is to say what other people would do with your money. :)
 
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Thanks for all the advice. I attended the local club a couple of months ago when I first moved to the area, but have been very busy with starting a new job and getting settled in to a new place. I will definitely be going back. When it comes to tools, are there some brands that are traditionally good quality and affordable. My own experience with other things has taught me that investing in good tools early usually saves a lot of headaches down the road. Alternatively, are there brands to definitely avoid? Thanks again for all the help!
 

hockenbery

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There are lots of quality tools out there most anything Packard, Craft supplies, Thompson, Bosch, jamieson sells is a good quality tool that will do the job it is meant to do.

There are two approaches people take
1. Decide what you want to make and what techniques your will use/learn then get the tools that support these goals. ( this is where a class or mentor can give guidance)

2. Get tools and then make what they allow you make and use/learn the techniques these tools require.

I much prefer to decide what I want to make and then get the tools to do it or make the ones I have work.

If you want to turn bowls with an Ellsworth grind my favorite tool is the Lyle Jamieson gouge made by Thompson.
An alternative to this tool is the Henry Taylor Artisan gouge craft supplies sells.
 

RichColvin

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Matthew,

This is my opinion, so please take it as that. I believe learning to use the tool is more important to a new person than the quality of the tool. In the beginning of learning, it’s the grind that makes more of an impact than the steel.

Steel does come into play with the length of time it stays sharp, but learning to sharpen is a skill you need to have also. Some say learning to turn with old carbon steel tools is best for that reason. They have to be sharpened more often.

Then learn to use that tool. I recommend you find used tools that have some sharpening life left in them. Tools you use will need to be replaced over time. When one wears out, replace it with a good quality steel if it gets used in the stuff you want to do.

Just one man’s opinion.

Kind regards,
Rich
 
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FWIW, I got a set of Harbor Freight tools when I first started. Didn't know better but they have served me well. There are a lot of quality steel tools and carbide tip tools. I'm of the old school and seem to stick with steel. Many good suggestions have been made for you to consider.
I did spring for a Rikon low speed grinder on sale at Woodcraft and later got the Wolverine sharpening jig and Vari Grind, I think it's called. Sharp tools are a necessity! I keep my grinder set up about two steps from my lathe.
BTW, again, welcome to the forum. I check this forum about twice a day to see what I can glean from the members.
 
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If you are going with the gouge route, you need to pay attention to the type of steel and flute shape.

10V, or M42 can hold an edge longer than M4 or M2. The higher grade steel, the longer you can go before sharpening again so it is a matter of preference and price.

Flute shape also plays into the mix depending on the grind. There what are referred to as bottom of bowl gouges, traditional grind type of shapes that benefit from U shaped gouge. Ellsworth, Irish grind, swept back grinds benefit from parabolic or superflute shaped gouges, stuart batty type of grind benfit from V shaped gouges.

Al referred me to Lyle Jaimeson’s gouge which is v10 thomspon gouge with parabolic shaped flute. It is excellent gouge. I also use Crown Pro-PM gouge with ellsworth grind.

Carbide wise, it depends but I would probably go with hunter tools if I were to go that route.

You will need a grinder if you are going with gouges. I purchased the Rikon 1hp grinder, there is also 1/2hp version. You will need the wolverine jig for it. The grinder goes on sale at woodcraft from time to time.

You will also need a 4 jaw chuck. I started with Nova G3, about $100 and it worked well, upgraded to vicmarc a year later.

For the lathe, the more horse power the better. You can get up to 1.5hp on 110v. If you can afford 1.5hp it would be great, try not to get less than 1hp. Jet is a good choice.
 
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If you are going with the gouge route, you need to pay attention to the type of steel and flute shape.

V10, or M42 can hold an edge longer than M4 or M2. The higher grade steel, the longer you can go before sharpening again so it is a matter of preference and price.

Flute shape also plays into the mix depending on the grind. There what are referred to as bottom of bowl gouges, traditional grind type of shapes that benefit from U shaped gouge. Ellsworth, Irish grind, swept back grinds benefit from parabolic or superflute shaped gouges, stuart batty type of grind benfit from V shaped gouges.

Al referred me to Lyle Jaimeson’s gouge which is v10 thomspon gouge with parabolic shaped flute. It is excellent gouge. I also use Crown Pro-PM gouge with ellsworth grind.

Carbide wise, it depends but I would probably go with hunter tools if I were to go that route.

You will need a grinder if you are going with gouges. I purchased the Rikon 1hp grinder, there is also 1/2hp version. You will need the wolverine jig for it. The grinder goes on sale at woodcraft from time to time.

You will also need a 4 jaw chuck. I started with Nova G3, about $100 and it worked well, upgraded to vicmarc a year later.

For the lathe, the more horse power the better. You can get up to 1.5hp on 110v. If you can afford 1.5hp it would be great, try not to get less than 1hp. Jet is a good choice.
Fadi,

How far you've come in a short time! It seems like only yesterday that you were the one asking these same questions and now you're providing sensible advice based on your hard earned experience. Thank you and keep on growin'.
 
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Ah these are the questions I had and learned from you guys. I know where Matthew is coming from because I had the same questions :)

I am still a newbie, I just hurt myself an hour ago applying Danish oil on a bowl off the lathe! Was rubbing the oil on the bowl, fumbled it and while trying to grab it, bounced it off the bridge of my nose :D I think I am the first woodturner ever to bleed at 0rpm.

B886CF2E-6350-4609-BA66-A638D39C77AF.jpeg
 

Bill Boehme

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.... I am still a newbie, I just hurt myself an hour ago applying Danish oil on a bowl off the lathe! Was rubbing the oil on the bowl, fumbled it and while trying to grab it, bounced it off the bridge of my nose :D I think I am the first woodturner ever to bleed at 0rpm.....

Fadi, you are still an amateur at self inflicted wounds. Shedding blood is just a part of the required ritual of whatever I happen to be doing whether woodturning, working on the car, or knitting. My blood sacrifice today was for some carpentry work in preparation for installing a new window airconditioner. Doesn't sound like a big deal, but nevertheless some blood must be shed to show that it was my handiwork.
 
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Pick a brand you're comfortable with, then chose what size you think is right. Then get the next size up so you don't grow out of it to quickly.
The most expensive tool you will ever buy is the one you have to replace too soon because it no longer suits your needs.
It is better to grow into a tool than out of it.
 
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Thanks again for all the advice and input. I finally bought myself an early Christmas present. JET 1221VS. Nova G3 chuck and some introductory tools both gouges and carbide. I still need a few things, but have been able to start experimenting. I am looking forward to the next local club meeting so I can start picking peoples brains. My next bit of learning needs to be how to find and process wood to get it ready for turning. I attached some pictures of my new rig and a couple of the things I have been doing on some scrap wood I have laying around.IMG_7129.jpg IMG_7130.jpg
 
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You've got all the spindle cuts on those pieces and they look well done. Coves are not easy. Good job! And you've got a well reasoned approach to getting started (especially making use of fellow club members)
 
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