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How to make sanding sealer?

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Hello guys, I live in Spain and I can not buy sanding sealer, somebody knows the components or how to make it home-made?. Thank you for listening, this would be very helpful.
 

hockenbery

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Hello guys, I live in Spain and I can not buy sanding sealer, somebody knows the components or how to make it home-made?. Thank you for listening, this would be very helpful.

A thin shellac works well
Use twice the alcohol when mixing.
This dries quickly. Shellac is compatible with most other finishes

A thin lacquer will also work if lacquer is you finish.
It may also work with some other finishes but I don't have experience with any other than lacquer.

Al
 

odie

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Your English is great, Antonio! :D

It actually crossed my mind that you might be an American living in Spain.....with the "hello guys" wording! :cool:

Welcome to these forums, and let us know how your home made sanding sealer is working for you.

ko
 

hockenbery

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So, sanding sealer is 1/3 shellac with 2/3 denatured alcohol. Thank you, I really appreciate your effort, my English is a little poor.

What I use is the " one pound cut".

Just to be sure we are in agreement.
I put flakes in a container to about 1/3 full then fill the container with alcohol.

mas o memos

If it seem too thick I add a bit more alcohol
If it seems too thin I add more flakes

Al
 

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so I was wondering about something. It might sound stupid to some of you but, I like using either tung oil, danish oil, or walnut oil on my bowls. walnut oil or tung oil on bowls that get used for food. I also like to wet sand because I hate dust so i've been using whatever oil I use on that particular piece for my sanding lubricant but this gets really expensive with the tung oil and walnut oil since it takes a good bit to wet sand properly. I don't want to use water for wet sanding but i'm wondering if I use anything besides the oil I plan on using on the piece it will mess with the finish. any thoughts on this?

Chris
 

Bill Boehme

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My opinion about lubricating sandpaper with oil when sanding wood is that it just masks sanding scratches and dulls the figure in the wood. The sludge of oil and wood dust and oil packs the pores and helps to mask fine scratches and seems like it also reduces the effectiveness of the sandpaper because of clogging.

It is good that you are concerned about breathing dust because it is a real health hazard. I think that there are a number of effective ways of dealing with wood dust. Wearing a dust mask or respirator is something that you ought to be doing anyway while turning. Using a dust collector or shop vac funnel near the work while sanding also help a lot in capturing dust. A fan at your back also helps. I sand outdoors so that I don't have to contend with a dusty environment in the shop.

Varnish over oil gives a nice finish, but I would allow sufficient time for the oil to cure. For walnut oil this means a month or two. Tung oil is also slow drying and might take several weeks. I would be hesitant to put lacquer over oil. Anyway, this is just my option on finishing and not the last word. Woodturners are forever experimenting with various ways to finish their work.
 
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My opinion about lubricating sandpaper with oil when sanding wood is that it just masks sanding scratches and dulls the figure in the wood. The sludge of oil and wood dust and oil packs the pores and helps to mask fine scratches and seems like it also reduces the effectiveness of the sandpaper because of clogging.

It is good that you are concerned about breathing dust because it is a real health hazard. I think that there are a number of effective ways of dealing with wood dust. Wearing a dust mask or respirator is something that you ought to be doing anyway while turning. Using a dust collector or shop vac funnel near the work while sanding also help a lot in capturing dust. A fan at your back also helps. I sand outdoors so that I don't have to contend with a dusty environment in the shop.

Varnish over oil gives a nice finish, but I would allow sufficient time for the oil to cure. For walnut oil this means a month or two. Tung oil is also slow drying and might take several weeks. I would be hesitant to put lacquer over oil. Anyway, this is just my option on finishing and not the last word. Woodturners are forever experimenting with various ways to finish their work.
Bill you are right . No lacquer over oil, but you can shellac over oil and then lacquer. Probably not the most long lived finish, but will stick. As to the original question of how to make sanding sealer, lets leave the sanding off as sealer is what you want and the sanding should be completed before finishing starts. Sealer can be either a 50/50 mix of thinner and the finish you will use or the universal sealer.......Shellac. Also with shellac by using different grades of Super Blonde, Blonde, Garnet you will get different shades. Garnet is very good to even out the color of cherry and gives a nice reddish tint to walnut.
 
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