Looking for a Chuck

[Al Chavez]

I'm looking at a Nova TK-23099 Direct Thread 1 1/4 Inch Supernova2 Chuck Bundle Gifting Set or something similar for a PM2014 I've just bought. The PowerMatic is reversible and I can't find any info about whether this chuck is reversible aside from one comment saying there is a set screw/grub screw on it. Nothing in the specs though. I am also unsure if these jaws are dovetailed jaws or if that is a standard for the Nova chucks. (Newbie here) Does anyone know those answers for this chuck?

I intend on doing bowls and hollow forms primarily. The PM has 1¼ x 8 TPI spindle threads so any alternative suggestions would need these features....

• 1¼ x 8 TPI
  
• dovetail jaws
• reverse capacity
• expandible system with more available components

This bundle seems to have a wide variety of jaws to start with so I'm looking for bundled sets for now.

The PM2014 won't ship until the end of April but I'd like to have some of the basic accessories available when it arrives.

I am upgrading from a Rikon 70/100 with a 1 x 8 TPI spindle so I've ordered an adaptor for my current chuck and faceplates but won't be able to reverse turn with them.
Here is a pic of the set I am considering.
Thanks!
Al in Texas

 

[Mark Jundanian]

You mentioned that the chuck has a set screw, so yes it can be run in reverse. The set screw is tightened on the spindle and will resist the tendency of the chuck to unscrew from the spindle when the lathe is running in reverse, but just understand there are limits (and these apply to all brands of chuck).

The two larger sets of jaws are, I believe, the 100 and 130 mm and these are dovetail on inside and outside of the jaws. The smaller set is probably the 50 mm. These are dovetail on the outside (expansion). On the inside the contour is hard to describe, I have heard it called a bird beak.

 

[Dean Center]

The Nova jaws are a standard dovetail on the outside for gripping in a recess. The inside of the jaws on the standard bowl jaws is described as a dovetail, but it's not quite. It's more of a minimal slant with a small rim on the inside of the jaw to aid gripping. There are a whole host of jaw sets and it seems to me that the powerjaws are a true dovetail on the inside, but I can't be sure without pulling one out. Others may be as well.

BTW, don't be shy about starting a new thread with your questions. When you attach to an old thread, there will be some people, maybe the ones with the best response, who aren't going to look at an old thread or bother reading to the end.

 

[Al Chavez]

Thank you both for your replies,
Dean, thanks for advice on the new threads.
I've been trying to use the search feature to find relevant info to my questions but I won't hesitate to start a new thread in the future.
Al

 

[Bill Boehme]

... BTW, don't be shy about starting a new thread with your questions. When you attach to an old thread, there will be some people, maybe the ones with the best response, who aren't going to look at an old thread or bother reading to the end.

What Dean said is exactly right and that is why I moved Al's post and the replies to him to a new thread. When you post in an existing thread, it should be in response to the original or one of the previous comments. Starting a new discussion in an existing thread might be a disservice to the thread starter if the thread is still active. If the thread has been dormant for a long time, like Dean said, people might not bother reading it.

 

[Dave Bunge]

I'm looking at a Nova TK-23099 Direct Thread 1 1/4 Inch Supernova2 Chuck Bundle Gifting Set or something similar for a PM2014 I've just bought. The PowerMatic is reversible and I can't find any info about whether this chuck is reversible aside from one comment saying there is a set screw/grub screw on it. Nothing in the specs though. I am also unsure if these jaws are dovetailed jaws or if that is a standard for the Nova chucks. (Newbie here) Does anyone know those answers for this chuck?

I bought that same bundle a couple of years ago; my Amazon purchase history says I paid $160, so the price has gone up, but it's still a fairly cheap vs buying the chuck and jaws separately.

Since it's direct threaded, there is no place to put a wrench to remove it from the lathe. You can use an oil filter strap, or put a board between the jaws, or get a spanner type tool to hook into the allen wrench slot you use for tightening the jaws.

I've found homedepot.com to have good prices on Nova jaws. You might look there if you want to add more jaws.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Yes, Tools Plus and for some reason Home Depot have been the two sources where I've consistently seen the best prices on Nova accessories. I like to use the HD if I can because I don't pay shipping and I can choose to pick it up from a store in a nearby burb with lower sales tax. And if you do in store pick up porch pirates are not an issue.

 

[Al Chavez]

Thanks for the feedback everyone.
I've used a small polyethylene washer that i made from a flexible cutting board to keep the chuck from getting too tight on my smaller set up. The washer is .75mm or .0325" thick and just sits between the chuck and the face of the spindle assembly. The polyethylene is slick enough to allow me to loosen the chuck by hand. Is this a bad habit that I should stop doing? The spanners by Teknatool have horrible reviews. The SN2 chuck I am considering should be a direct fit on the 1 1/4" spindle so I won't have to worry about spindle adapters. If I have to buy a spanner to loosen the chuck are there any recommendations other than the Teknatool/Nova spanner?
Thanks
The oil filter strap sounds like a good alternative.

 

[Dean Center]

A washer between the chuck and the shoulder face of the spindle can skew the chuck a little. Many people still use one and will tell you it doesn't affect them, but there's still a possibility.

As for removing the SN2 chuck, I would agree that the Nova spanner is less than satisfactory. I'm considering putting a wooden handle on it to see if that improves its usability. Someone was selling a similarly functioning spanner, but apparently has stopped. They are made for collet systems, but I haven't been able to find one the right size for the SN chuck. That would be an ideal solution.

Having the jaws open a little and putting a lever of some sort in them would be another option. I've used the knockout rod for this, but it requires opening the jaws pretty wide. I've used the hex wrench in the hex hole, and if you cut the ball end off, it works OK, but the hex hole is pot metal and definitely wearing from doing this. A strap wrench of some sort would probably be the best readily available option.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Since your chuck may not have flats for a wrench this may all be moot. But I'm not clear what there is to like or not to like about the Nova wrench. It's just a flat piece of stamped steel. It seems horribly expensive until you see the price of an adjustable wrench that size (which I had to buy for some other nut in my life).



And the Nova wrench is skinnier so it fits better. I've not had a problem exerting enough leverage, but the handle is short.

But one thing to consider is that sometimes you'll want to remove a chuck from the lathe, but not remove your work piece from the chuck. In that setting you can't put something in the jaws. You could use a strap wrench if the strap opens all the way so you can wrap around the chuck. If you have to slip the strap over the chuck that may be a problem.

By the way, I put a drop of oil on the spindle most times when I mount a chuck. I seem to remember that in the instructions (but even if not, I'm still doing it).

 

[Al Chavez]

Thanks Mark,
I had read that the curvature of the spanner wrench does not match the diameter of the chuck body on the SN2 and creates a pivot point that may cause excessive leverage and damage the allen wrench pinion. I usually read all the comments and reviews I can and pay attention to the good reviews and especially the bad. It's good to hear that the spanner has not been an issue for you. I may have to reconsider it.

I had thought about the need to keep the piece locked into the chuck also so thanks for relating that too. I will probably buy that bundled kit and go from there. Still researching it though.
Al in Texas

 

[Bill Boehme]

Is this a bad habit that I should stop doing?

Using a plastic washer means that the precision machined registration flat surfaces on the chuck and the spindle won't have the metal-to-metal contact needed for precision alignment of the chuck. Threads are only for fastening and can't provide precision alignment. Also, since the plastic is soft, it means there is some flexure in the connection between spindle and chuck. While the flexure isn't much it's still a potential contributor to vibration.

I don't see any need for a spanner or strap wrench. The chuck key should be sufficient for providing the leverage needed to remove the chuck. While some people suggest "seating" the chuck by slamming it into the stop, I believe that a gentle flick of the wrist provides sufficient seating of the chuck ... and don't oil the threads.

 

[Gary Beasley]

I found a 1 1/4” open end wrench at Home Depot, then took it to a sander and removed maybe 1/16” of material from each face so it would fit in the gap between the chuck and the headstock. All it takes with that is a little gentle pressure with the index locked to remove a tight chuck. No impacts needed.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

the curvature of the spanner wrench does not match the diameter of the chuck body on the SN2 and creates a pivot point that may cause excessive leverage and damage the allen wrench pinion.

It sounds like people are trying to use the wrench in this fashion:

I suppose that can sorta work, but the idea is to put the wrench on the flats of the insert, like a wrench on a nut:

But if you don't have an insert you may have no where to fit the wrench.

Rather than buy the Nova wrench at the get go see if you can find a strap wrench that opens like this one, it will have other uses. I'm sure I paid less the ten bucks for this.

I agree with Bill Boehme, I've never put a chuck on more than finger tight, but Bill the chuck key on a SN2 is a ball ended allen wrench. You could use a straight end allen, but as Dean mentioned it's hard on the socket.

 

[Ric Williams]

I got one of the Nova spanners for Christmas and the edges aren't nearly as clean as yours, so the pins of the spanners were all but useless. The handle was so uncomfortable that I cut off the small end, ground the sides to parallel and hammered a heated steel pipe onto it. It's much better that way, but doesn't work between the jaws now. I have a Titan III chuck that doesn't use an insert, so I have to use a strap wrench on that one. The strap wrench works fine though. I agree with Mark. Get a strap wrench first. It's a lot cheaper

 

[Al Chavez]

Thanks everyone.

 

[Bill Boehme]

I agree with Bill Boehme, I've never put a chuck on more than finger tight, but Bill the chuck key on a SN2 is a ball ended allen wrench. You could use a straight end allen, but as Dean mentioned it's hard on the socket.

That just goes to show how much I [don't] know about Nova chucks. I only have Oneway and Vicmarc chucks. While rummaging through my plumbing tools this afternoon I came across this handy little knuckle buster:



I got it at either Lowes or Home Depot and it didn't cost much. The open-end wrench fits three different sizes: 1¾", 1⅞", and 2". I enlarged the 2" opening to 2 ⅛" with a file, but it was slow going because the tool is hardened. I tried the spanner out on my chucks and it's a perfect fit for the Oneway Talon and the Vicmarc VM100 although I wouldn't use it on either of them. I use the chuck key on the Talon and on the VM100 a short rod is provided that fits a hole in the spindle thread insert. Any Vicmarc chuck that has a screw-on spindle insert shouldn't be removed by applying torque to the body. The spanner also worked well on my Oneway Stronghold chucks and my Vicmarc VM120 chucks. One of my Vicmarc VM120 chucks has direct 1¼ X 8 threads so it could be used with a spanner.

 

[Al Chavez]

Thanks for all the feedback everyone.
I am most likely going to purchase a Nova SuperNova2 Bundle set, but I'm now looking at the Nova 23108 Premier Pro-Tek Supernova 2 Chuck Bundle.
It seems there are a few improvements with the Pro-Tek series. The improved 2" jaw set being the most important to me.
The only drawback to me is that the Pro-Tek series requires an insert and I liked the idea of a direct thread chuck. I suppose the insert will only add a 1/4 inch to maybe 1/2 inch to the height of the chuck. The PM2014 is only 20 inches between centers though I did order the 13 inch bed extension.

Does anyone here have a comment or review of the Pro-Tek series?
Thanks

I thought maybe to buy the SN2 bundle in the original post and then just purchase a set of the new 2 inch jaws but I can not find them listed for sell separately anywhere online.
The NOVA JS50N 50mm Chuck Accessory Jaw set is the old set that comes standard with the chucks and does not have the dovetail profile on the internal part of the jaws.

 

[Dean Center]

Righty Tighty is a lot more natural this side of the Equator.

 

[Tom De Winter]

I have the new Pro-Tec model. Limited experience so far but looks like a quality chuck. Love the new jaw profile. And that it’s righty-tights.

I too wanted a direct mount. The insert does add 1/4” perhaps slightly more. The added length doesn’t bother me. The big plus is that with the insert I have a hex for using a wrench to remove.

 

[Al Chavez]

Thanks Tom.
Your reply definitely helps my decision.
I can live with the 1/4" that the insert adds. I suppose another bonus is I can get an extra insert so it fits both lathes.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

The supernova Chuck seems like a real nice Chuck. I just got mine today and was playing with it a little. I didn’t get to use it yet because the new lathe won’t be here until Monday. It seems to be a lot nicer than the G3 I have been using.

 

[Al Chavez]

Thanks Rusty.
I have a similar sized Penn State chuck that I will probably buy the 1 1/4" inch insert so that I have 2 chucks. You may be able to do that with the G3. I am starting to see the benefit of a dedicated jumbo jaw set for bowl rims or even just the versatility of having 2 chucks. Seems to be a thing and inserts are not too expensive.
Thanks for the feedback and congratulations on the new lathe!
Al

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

Thanks Rusty.
I have a similar sized Penn State chuck that I will probably buy the 1 1/4" inch insert so that I have 2 chucks. You may be able to do that with the G3. I am starting to see the benefit of a dedicated jumbo jaw set for bowl rims or even just the versatility of have 2 jaws. Seems to be a thing and inserts are not too expensive.
Thanks for the feedback and congratulations on the new lathe!
Al

My G3 is threaded for a 1” spindle there is no insert. I am going to buy an adapter and use it for smaller things.

 

[Peter D'Attomo]

Ok, im stoking up this thread again.
I have SN2 w/ 50mm jaws that Nova says thery're good for compression, but I dont see the dovetail as pronounced inside as outside.
Also, are Nova jaws compatible with ???
Thanks

 

[Doug Freeman]

The Nova 50mm std jaws are not dovetail on the ID for tenons. Nova uses what has commonly been referred to as a “bird beak” near the top of the jaws. The correct tenon shape is a straight wall. They reference a “square” tenon on p21 of their jaw manual https://www.teknatool.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Accessory-Jaw-Manual_June08.pdf

I have use them successfully on blanks larger than the Nova recommended 6” long x 4” dia, but the blanks were rounded and balanced fairly well between centers.

 

[Dean Center]

As noted recently, possibly in this thread, there appear to be 2 styles of jaws for the SN2. Some are the bird beak and some are true dovetails inside. The difference seems to be related to when Nova sold them.

 

[Al Chavez]

I believe you're right Dean.
Tom De Winter mentioned the new Pro-Tec model is the bundle with all the jaws that have the dovetail profile inside and out. I could not find them as a separate set but I am happy with the Nova 23108 Premier Pro-Tek Supernova 2 Chuck Bundle. The first bundle I was looking at had the bird beak jaws on the 50mm jaws so I went with the Pro-Tek bundle.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Peter, I have most of the Nova jaws. What Doug said about the original 50 mm is correct, and what Dean and Al have said are also correct. Some of the other sizes of jaws are dovetail in and out (e.g. 100 mm), and there is a new 50 mm model (Pro Tec) that is dovetail in and out.

The bird beak profile works just fine. The Nova jaws are fully interchangeable between the SN2 and G3. I think some can be used on the Titan, but not all.

 

[John Torchick]

A washer between the chuck and the shoulder face of the spindle can skew the chuck a little. Many people still use one and will tell you it doesn't affect them, but there's still a possibility.

My SN2 came with a very thin yellow Teflon washer. Left it off once. Once was enough. I lay the chuck on its back and put the washer in the jaws as a reminder.

 

[Peter D'Attomo]

Thank you all for your advice. I'm looking to add a 75mm jaw and maybe the Nova 23108 Premier Pro-Tek Supernova 2 Chuck Bundle..
Happy turning!

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Peter, I recommend the 70 mm jaws, but I don't recommend the 75 mm. The jaws of the 75 are very thick, such that the maximum tenon size is quite a bit smaller than you would expect for a 75 mm chuck.

The 70 mm have normal proportions and since the jaws have eight segments rather than four there are eight points of contact if you are not on a perfect circle.

However, if the 75 mm is just the thing for your turning, then I will happily sell you my set. Free shipping, 'cause you can drive over and get them. (Call me if you want it).

 

[R Henrickson]

Peter, I recommend the 70 mm jaws, but I don't recommend the 75 mm. The jaws of the 75 are very thick, such that the maximum tenon size is quite a bit smaller than you would expect for a 75 mm chuck.
The 70 mm have normal proportions and since the jaws have eight segments rather than four there are eight points of contact if you are not on a perfect circle.
However, if the 75 mm is just the thing for your turning, then I will happily sell you my set. Free shipping, 'cause you can drive over and get them. (Call me if you want it).

I would second this -- the 75 mm jaws are one of the more useless sets of Nova jaws I have. And if you look at the Nova description, I'm not sure what the basis for the 75 mm designation is. I use the 70 mm jaws frequently.

 

[Rusty Nesmith]

Being as I am starting to turn larger bowls I bought a set of 100 mm jaws.

 

[Peter D'Attomo]

Thank you all for your help. The 70mm sure looks like a winner.
BUT.. no word on Nova jaws compatible witn any other manufacturer?

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Never tried it, but I don't believe Nova jaws will fit non-Nova chucks.

 

[Russell Nugent]

Thank you all for your help. The 70mm sure looks like a winner.
BUT.. no word on Nova jaws compatible witn any other manufacturer?

Nova jaws will fit record sc3/sc4 and sorby patriot chucks. You have to swap the numbers around but I've currently got Nova jaws on my record sc3 so they do fit.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

I forgot about that. I was thinking of Vicmarc and Oneway, etc.

 

[Timothy Allen]

I happened to acquire what I now believe to be Nova jaws -- they did "fit" my Oneway Talon chuck, meaning the screw placement and the key on the bottom of the jaw that engages with the chuck's base jaw were all spaced and sized (about) the same, but the fit was not as secure as the regular jaws from Oneway so I wouldn't use them...