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Sharpening trent bosch cutters

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Has anyone tried to sharpen hollowing cutters on the Sorby proedge? I don't have a grinder and was wondering what has worked best for you? I have the Trent Bosch system with traditional cutters; he uses a grinder, but I don't have one and got rid of my tormek.
 
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Well, not sure what to tell you. I can't imagine how I would be able to do things without a grinder.... A coarse diamond hone or card will bring up a burr on the bevel side, but some times you just have to go back to the grinder. I do use a coarse card on my McNaughton coring blades, but still have to go back to the grinder with them once in a while...

robo hippy
 
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You can do most of the nose with the proedge. I think it was Trent, possibly someone else, that shows radiused grind wheel corners, and the tool tip is tilted/twisted and pushed along the radius to get the outside of the nose and some of the edge - thats how I do it. With that system the tip will have to be turned perpendicular to the belt to get the outside of the nose and some of the side. Pushing the tip, twisted and angled, past the belt edge might work.
 

Roger Wiegand

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You can go quite a while using a diamond card on the flat top of the cutter by hand. Might be time to head down to the Harbor Freight for a cheap grinder. Or, just mount a grinding wheel on your lathe and have at it.
 

john lucas

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Dont know what Trent Bosch hollowing tips look like but dont see why they cant be sharpened on a belt sander like the pro edge. If they happen to be Square shanked HSS cutters take a look at the jug John Jordan sells for sharpening g his cutters. It would work just as well on a belt as far as a grinder. Basically it's a small version of the Ellsworth Bowl gring jig.
 
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Dont know what Trent Bosch hollowing tips look like but dont see why they cant be sharpened on a belt sander like the pro edge. If they happen to be Square shanked HSS cutters take a look at the jug John Jordan sells for sharpening g his cutters. It would work just as well on a belt as far as a grinder. Basically it's a small version of the Ellsworth Bowl gring jig.

I have both Trent and John Jordan and John’s jig. Trent glues his in where John uses a set screw. I’m going to eventually put a set screw in my bars like John and use a set screw. I have been sharpening Trent’s while still glued in for now, but like the jig John has to sharpen.
 

hockenbery

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I learned to sharpen the tips from David Ellsworth. Trent sharpens the same way. The tip is touched on the wheel then pushed over the corner of the wheel to sharpen the edge.
The straight tool needs little sharpening on the edge. The hook tool the right edge is sharpened a 1/4” or so.
On face grain turnings this edge can remove a 1/4” shaving inside.

A radius edge CBN wheel is great for this using a platform for support
You may be able do this on the pulley end of your belt if it is not too awkward to confidently run the tool over this area - you need to have something to support you hand while easing the edge of the cutter over the roller.
 
Last edited:

Roger Wiegand

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I find a bit of heat to pop the bits out and a drop of CA to put them back in is faster than finding the right size Allen wrench. Perhaps that says too much about my shop. I keep several bits sharpened up so I don't have to interrupt a hollowing session.

Some kind of holder is very useful if you've got big fingers.
 
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I find a bit of heat to pop the bits out and a drop of CA to put them back in is faster than finding the right size Allen wrench. Perhaps that says too much about my shop. I keep several bits sharpened up so I don't have to interrupt a hollowing session.

Some kind of holder is very useful if you've got big fingers.

I guess we all have our preferences. Getting the torch or heat gun out, gluing the tip back in, is certainly more time consuming and complicated than finding the right Allen wrench for me.
 

john lucas

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I'm 50/50 on the allen wrench thing. The allen screw sticks out on my smaller bars and can hit the tool.rest if put on the bottom. Side. If you drill.it on the topside the Allen head fills with sawdust and you have to dig that out with an ice pick before using the Allen wrench. Often it's easier for me to remove the bar from my captured bar rig and grind d the tool.tip still.in the bar. A few I have used CA but since I dont have to remove them to sharpen that's not an issue.
 

John Jordan

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Grind a little flat on the bottom underneath the cutter of your Bosch tool. Buy a 10-32 tap and drill from the hardware store, center punch, drill then tap. Use a 10-32 x 3//16" setscrew which requires a 3/32" hex key. Probably can't find screws that short at the big box store. Buy a box and several keys. Throw them in the trash if they start to strip-key and screw. Put in one from your stash-life is good. LOL I can't imagine having to look for a hex key for a tool you use-it should be right there! If you pay the postage, I'll send you screws and a couple of keys to anyone that needs and can't find them-no charge. It makes it much easier in my opinion, and I've converted dozens of them for students.

John
 
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I keep an awl right by the lathe, and always have the compressed air blower right there when hollowing. Allen wrenches for chucks and hollowing tools are held in a shopmade magnetic tool holder to the headstock. Pretty simple to clean out the allen head as needed, when you “5S” your area and have the right tools in the right spot (too many years of process engineering).
 
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I have always had problems with the small allen screw heads getting stripped, and/or the allen wrench rounding over on the edges so they don't turn well...... That, and I probably have a couple of dozen of the same size allen wrenches for each tool....

robo hippy
 
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