• Beware of Counterfeit Woodturning Tools (click here for details)
  • Johnathan Silwones is starting a new AAW chapter, Southern Alleghenies Woodturners, in Johnstown, PA. (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Paul May for "Checkerboard (ver 3.0)" being selected as Turning of the Week for March 25, 2024 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Signing your work

odie

TOTW Team
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
7,079
Likes
9,488
Location
Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!
Odie

My ego is 1.5 inches... max, which includes signature and logo.

I am new to posting on these forums. Can you tell me how you get partial quotes, multiple quotes, and expandable quotes in your postings? I tried hitting reply but it quotes your complete posting and I would like to reply to a specific item.

This is one way to do it from Mark:
Highlight the portion of posting you would like to quote. A mini-box should pop up giving you the options to quote or reply. Click reply.

If there is another quote you would like to add to your posting this can be done at any point in your posting.


Another way to do it, is to hit the reply button, and delete what text in the quote you don't wish to address.

-----odie-----
 
Joined
Jan 3, 2012
Messages
423
Likes
357
Location
New City, NY
Returning to the original poster:
Use archival ink pen such as Figma MICRON and seal it with Grumbacher Final Fixative. Both available from your local art store. Finish goes over the fixative. Doesn’t bleed or fade. For a hobbyist or non production turner this makes perfect sense. I’ve been using this signature solution for years.

image.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 23, 2018
Messages
242
Likes
126
Location
Midland, TX
Bobby

The laser engraving looks great! I will check out some videos.

I do sandcarving (carving photos and text into granite with a sand blaster), but it can also be done with lasers (just not as deep) so I was looking into those styles but they are not cheap. The one you suggest might be great for embellishments on my wood bowls. I do most of my artwork in Adobe so it would be great if the laser software could import any of Adobe’s formats.

I love the knife. Did you make it? If so what types of steel did you use. I think Damascus steel is amazing. I was going to take a forging course this year but Covid got in the way. Hopefully I can take the course next year.
Hey Arthur, I don't make the blades. I order those from a guy on ebay. I do make the Tangs and handles and the sheaths for them.
 
Joined
Apr 19, 2018
Messages
84
Likes
88
Location
Chapel Hill, NC
Bobby if you raised the laser to 10 inches and burn on a 2 inch high bowl would this laser be able to burn from 8 inches away?
Yes - this works. I have a very similar laser engraver as Bobby, and have engraved the base of a few bowls now by raising the whole thing up by 3" - 4". It is surprisingly light, so doesn't take much to do it.

I have this one (20 watt version)
61VNq9IQ-FL._AC_SL1155_.jpg

I built an enclosure for it for vision protection and exhaust system.
 
Last edited:

Randy Anderson

Beta Tester
Beta Tester
Joined
May 25, 2019
Messages
834
Likes
1,228
Location
Eads, TN
Website
www.etsy.com
I just use my initials as my signature. I used fine point sharpies for a while but they would sometimes bleed and smudge even several days later. I made a small branding iron myself and paid more than I should have online for a small one. The branding irons were just to finicky for me and risky. One slip or there's a gap in the burn and it's next to impossible to fix. I'll use it on large flatwork or other wood projects sometimes but not on bowls. I've settled on archival ink pens and just my initials and year made. After reading here I may stop putting the year on them. I've had very good luck with Pigma Micron PN pens. There's just something personal about signing by hand that I like and if each signature is a little different so what, that's part of the uniqueness. Easy to get a pack of them on Amazon. I've only put the species on a few pieces where I don't think I'll be able to remember what it is - heavily spalted or just hard to distinguish after finished. People will ask what kind of wood it is and I hate saying I don't know.
 
Joined
Jan 8, 2020
Messages
189
Likes
52
Location
Bloomfield, New Jersey
I know a lot of people use branding irons to sign their work, and I'm not at that point yet where I feel signing my work is justified. But I do want to make a gift bowl, and was wondering... Once I shaped my piece, and sanded it, could I use a permanent black sharpie to sign & date it, then when I put my finish on, it'll seal it?

I'm using Sakura fine tips with Archival ink. A user here (whom my short memory has forgotten - sorry) provided the link: https://www.amazon.com/Sakura-Pigma-30062-Micron-Blister/dp/B0008G8G8Y
 

odie

TOTW Team
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
7,079
Likes
9,488
Location
Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!
There's just something personal about signing by hand that I like and if each signature is a little different so what, that's part of the uniqueness.

It's real.....there's that sense of "personal-ness" in signing by hand. It does influence some people. The laser engraved signatures do have that sense of professionalism.....but, also holds a certain feeling of "production" work. Each must make their own decisions as to what is best for their own works. There is no all-encompassing method of applying a signature, that best fits everyone......:D

-----odie-----
 
Joined
Mar 1, 2020
Messages
89
Likes
85
Location
Lebanon, TN
Yes - this works. I have a very similar laser engraver as Bobby, and have engraved the base of a few bowls now by raising the whole thing up by 3" - 4". It is surprisingly light, so doesn't take much to do it.

I have this one (20 watt version)
61VNq9IQ-FL._AC_SL1155_.jpg

I built an enclosure for it for vision protection and exhaust system.

Can you give us more detain on this please. Make, Model, where you bought it. Also interested in your safety enclosure.
 
Joined
Mar 19, 2016
Messages
1,174
Likes
1,268
Location
Haubstadt, Indiana
I have the Burnmaster and the Burnmaster pen for signing. It looked terrible. When I started doing basket weave and ordered some basket weave tips from PJL I also ordered a signing pen. It was a world of difference. My penmanship still suffers, but you can read it. This is opinion, but at first I just used initials until someone said if you are proud of your work you should sign your full name. No one will know by your initials in 6 months you made the piece. I have since signed my full name and I put the species. I don’t put the date, but like the Roman numerals idea. The idea of not personally signing doesn’t appeal to me for all the reasons Odie has expressed.

A400F321-751B-45D6-8269-25F9457BD9B7_1_201_a.jpeg
 

Tom Gall

TOTW Team
Joined
Feb 20, 2013
Messages
956
Likes
1,765
Location
Hillsborough, NJ
I use Sharpie Ultra Fine or Extra Fine pens and sometimes the Pigma Micron (archival) pens. Depending on the wood - sometimes I will seal with shellac or whatever finish I plan to use on the piece. Sign and let the ink dry and cover again with more finish. I have some pieces 15-20 years old with no fading as some have said. Maybe because the signature is on the bottom and not exposed to sunlight.

P1040813.jpg P1000831.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Oct 23, 2018
Messages
242
Likes
126
Location
Midland, TX
Bobby if you raised the laser to 10 inches and burn on a 2 inch high bowl would this laser be able to burn from 8 inches away?
No. The laser has to be focused to do the engraving. The further you are away, you will not be able to focus the laser. You want the laser no more than an inch away from what is being engraved. The laser is kind of like one of those spot flashlights. You turn it one way and it expands but turn it the other way and it pinpoints. The laser needs to have a pin point to do a detailed engraving.
 
Joined
Oct 23, 2018
Messages
242
Likes
126
Location
Midland, TX
Bobby you just gave me an idea. Make sets of one and two inch tall blocks and raise the laser on them to match the height of the bottom of the bowl and this would keep the laser1-2 inches above the bowl.
Yea or some sort of small crank leveling jack under each end. Then you can just raise and lower that.
 
Joined
Dec 28, 2019
Messages
448
Likes
467
Location
Tallahassee, FL
Just my opinion here: :D
View attachment 34718
What I've found works best for me, is this CSUSA "cub" wood burner. (They look a lot different now, but the internals haven't changed. This one is 30+ years old, and still works perfectly.) A logo is fine, and that's what I choose to use. Notice that my logo is designed with all straight lines.....That makes it very easy to get nice cleanly done results. Curved lines are difficult to burn cleanly. The real trick here, is to get the heat setting right, and go slow and deliberately. The heat setting will be hotter with more hard/dense woods, and less hot with softer woods.
View attachment 34716 View attachment 34717
-----odie-----

.
@odie, what did you wrap, or place around, your pyro pen, the one in the picture? I'm assuming it's to keep the heat down. I find my Sabre pen gets very hot and it's even warm through a glove.
 

odie

TOTW Team
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
7,079
Likes
9,488
Location
Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!
@odie, what did you wrap, or place around, your pyro pen, the one in the picture? I'm assuming it's to keep the heat down. I find my Sabre pen gets very hot and it's even warm through a glove.

Howdy Charles.......

The one on the left is pvc pipe with holes drilled. The one on the right has pipe insulation, and then wrapped with cloth hockey tape. They both reduce the heat quite a bit, but the pvc pipe seems to do a little better job of making the sabre more user friendly.

-----odie-----
index.php
 
Joined
Dec 2, 2011
Messages
66
Likes
9
Location
San Leandro, CA
Rich

I can create everything from a glass like finish to an extremely matte finish using epoxy resin.

Applying the resin leaves me with a finish that is brighter and smoother than anything I can do with abrasives because it goes on as a liquid and self levels. Even after polishing a stone at 50000 grit I can still see micro scratches with a high powered jewellers loop. The stone shines but it is not as smooth as a liquid.

For my resin covered turnings I apply scratches to create a matte or semigloss finish by using abrasives in reverse order to get the type of finish I want. I may want a finish using an abrasive closer to the low end of the polish stages or I may go for a heavy matte finish in the 220 to 400 grit range. I have also used different grades of steel wool and scotch bright pads (going from memory I believe red pads are in the range of 300 sandpaper, green are around 600, and white are approximately 1200)The only drawback to my method is I have to manually use the abrasive so it takes a bit of time. I cannot use power tools because the scratches have to be random, and power tools create consistent lines. You also have to be careful not to sand through the resin. Doing it by hand reduces that risk. When I apply resin I apply at least three coats. Especially when doing a live edge bowl. The phloem and punky wood tends to soak up resin like a sponge. The advantage to that is it adds a lot of strength.

Hello Arthur,
My limited familiarity with epoxy is that it is resin and hardener that are typically combined. Ergo my confusion about epoxy resin.
Are you discussing epoxy resin with or without hardener that you apply to your woodturnings?
Will you kindly advise a recommended brand.
Thank you and regards,
Doug Olsen
 

Tom Gall

TOTW Team
Joined
Feb 20, 2013
Messages
956
Likes
1,765
Location
Hillsborough, NJ
Howdy Charles.......

The one on the left is pvc pipe with holes drilled. The one on the right has pipe insulation, and then wrapped with cloth hockey tape. They both reduce the heat quite a bit, but the pvc pipe seems to do a little better job of making the sabre more user friendly.

-----odie-----
index.php
Probably because the holes in the PVC allow more heat to escape. Does it feel too big in your hand for detailed work? I use the woodturner a lot for texturing for long periods and even though I have some foam covers and even silicone(?) fingertip covers it gets too hot. I have to put it down to cool and switch pens if I have them. I have the Detail Master (dual - Excalibre ?) burner .... I like your handle - I might have to steal that idea! :D
 

odie

TOTW Team
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
7,079
Likes
9,488
Location
Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!
Probably because the holes in the PVC allow more heat to escape. Does it feel too big in your hand for detailed work? I use the woodturner a lot for texturing for long periods and even though I have some foam covers and even silicone(?) fingertip covers it gets too hot. I have to put it down to cool and switch pens if I have them. I have the Detail Master (dual - Excalibre ?) burner .... I like your handle - I might have to steal that idea! :D


Yes, it does feel bulky to use, but adaptable to a user's style pretty easily. I guess it would depend on any individual's evaluation of how well they can adapt to it.

Also, the pvc pipe allows for a more solid feel that I like better. The pipe insulation isn't as good because of the "squishy" feel to it......this also may be subject to an individual's evaluation.

I don't use the woodburner as much as others do, but if it were really important to me, I did have an idea that a smaller diameter water cooled sleeve could be made that would keep it nice and cool for as long as you wanted. This could be done using a separate pump and reservoir connected with small inlet and outlet tubes to the sleeve. ;)

-----odie-----
 
Last edited:
Joined
Mar 1, 2020
Messages
89
Likes
85
Location
Lebanon, TN
Yes - this works. I have a very similar laser engraver as Bobby, and have engraved the base of a few bowls now by raising the whole thing up by 3" - 4". It is surprisingly light, so doesn't take much to do it.

I have this one (20 watt version)
61VNq9IQ-FL._AC_SL1155_.jpg

I built an enclosure for it for vision protection and exhaust system.

Well you motivated be into it. Got it setup yesterday, now I've got to figure out how to use it.
 
Joined
Jun 6, 2018
Messages
1,948
Likes
996
Location
La Grange, IL
Very necessary. Not only do you not want to look directly at the laser light you do not want to look at the scattered laser light, which is quite bright. With the light intensities we're talking about wood reflects a surprising amount of light. Dust on the lenses, etc. accumulating during down times is also an issue.
 
Joined
Mar 1, 2020
Messages
89
Likes
85
Location
Lebanon, TN
To Mark's point, the wave length of the reflected laser light can damage your eyes very quickly.

The orange acrylic cover is actually a protective layer that filters the harmful light wave length.

But I still also wear a pair of laser safety glasses when it is running.

Also, for longer runs, being as the laser is burning the material it creates a lot of fine smoke, so that gets contained in the cabinet and exhausted straight outside.
 

odie

TOTW Team
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
7,079
Likes
9,488
Location
Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!
I know you probably have it all programmed in already, but in the year 2050 no one will know who CE is. :)

Maybe the average person won't know who CE is........but, the important people will! :D

From my own perspective, though......the laser loses that personal human connection. It becomes more "commercial".....and, this may, or may not be a good or bad thing. I feel it would be a negative influence for what I am trying to do with my own turnings.

-----odie-----
 
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
2,960
Likes
1,907
Location
Brandon, MS
Maybe the average person won't know who CE is........but, the important people will! :D

From my own perspective, though......the laser loses that personal human connection. It becomes more "commercial".....and, this may, or may not be a good or bad thing. I feel it would be a negative influence for what I am trying to do with my own turnings.

-----odie-----
Just my take branding irons and lasers add a crisp professional look. But what is or is not professional other than ethics is in the eye and opinion of the beholder.
 
Joined
Mar 1, 2020
Messages
89
Likes
85
Location
Lebanon, TN
I have three custom made branding irons that I have never got a good brand from, especially when you brand across different woods or the surface is not extremely flat, that's why, when I saw Matthew's post, earlier in this thread, I thought I'd give the laser a try. I think I've spent more on these branding irons than what this laser cost ($300) and I probably cold have spent about $100 less and still got the same results.

I haven't used a pyro pen, but my hand writing sucks, so I've kind of avoided going down that path.
 

Tom Gall

TOTW Team
Joined
Feb 20, 2013
Messages
956
Likes
1,765
Location
Hillsborough, NJ
Maybe the average person won't know who CE is........but, the important people will! :D
-----odie-----
If you are referring to family members that may be true ..... MAYBE! :rolleyes: If you sell your work, as you do, or just give it away as many others do (CE?), and 20-30 years from now your 'masterpiece' ends up in an estate sale/auction or someone inherits your piece - they might have an interest in knowing who made it ..... maybe! Their chances are slim if they just Google "CE". ;)
 

odie

TOTW Team
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
7,079
Likes
9,488
Location
Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule!
If you are referring to family members that may be true ..... MAYBE! :rolleyes:

Actually.....no......I was referring to notable art collectors and connoisseurs, but family members certainly are included. :D

But what is or is not professional other than ethics is in the eye and opinion of the beholder.

Gerald has hit on the "universal truth" here......Please don't pay any attention to, or credit what I think, if what I believe is not inline with yours, or anyone else's beliefs. As Gerald notes, "other than ethics", our differences are what make for individuality, and create human interest. If we all believed the same things, we would be automatons! :eek:

-----odie-----
 
Joined
Mar 1, 2020
Messages
89
Likes
85
Location
Lebanon, TN
For Chits and Giggles, I Googled 'Chris Edwards', got 132 Million hits, 'CE' returns 4.7 Billion.

There's a good possibility that a couple of those are wood turners, some who might actually make stuff good enough to sell.

Now with that said, the laser will cut(burn) very fine, so actually doing a poem, note or saying, in a smallish space, would be easy to accomplish.
 
Joined
Jul 26, 2015
Messages
328
Likes
429
Location
Hot Springs, AR
Just got a Laserpecker LP1 laser engraver. focus point is 8" from the device. I have burned in my signature with my terrible handwriting for years, but this device works great. I've only had it a couple of days and have already engraved my name on bowl bottoms, pens. Experimentation will continue for a while, but I'm like a kid with a new toy!
 
Joined
Jan 18, 2020
Messages
124
Likes
103
Location
Bath, Maine
Just got a Laserpecker LP1 laser engraver. focus point is 8" from the device. I have burned in my signature with my terrible handwriting for years, but this device works great. I've only had it a couple of days and have already engraved my name on bowl bottoms, pens. Experimentation will continue for a while, but I'm like a kid with a new toy!
Not sure how'd you mount that above a large bowl. That platform looks good for only about 6-8" diameter.
 
Joined
Jul 20, 2008
Messages
51
Likes
596
Location
Bremerton WA
I use either an archival pen describe as above or a Dremel engraver. I also took a broken 1/8 drill bit shank, sharpened it to a fine point with a drill at the grinder, and use it in place of the standard carbide point if I need a finer signature.
 
Back
Top