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VicMarc 100

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Bob,

Most chucks that style you can apply a rubber band around the outer edges of the jaw and rotate
the adjusting screw to loosen the jaws then reverse the direction of the adjustment screw to
tighten the jaws. This usually aligns the jaws so they retract into the chuck in the correct order.
You have to make sure you have the correct jaw in each slot or they won't line up when the chuck
is tightened all of the way down. Most jaw sets are marked with individual numbers which go into
a specific slot on the jaw. Some chucks do not identify the proper slots but they always go in order
1,2,3,4. If your chuck does not have identifying marks for the jaws it is worth your time to mark the
chuck in some manner to avoid the problem later on.
 
Joined
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Bob,

Most chucks that style you can apply a rubber band around the outer edges of the jaw and rotate
the adjusting screw to loosen the jaws then reverse the direction of the adjustment screw to
tighten the jaws. This usually aligns the jaws so they retract into the chuck in the correct order.
You have to make sure you have the correct jaw in each slot or they won't line up when the chuck
is tightened all of the way down. Most jaw sets are marked with individual numbers which go into
a specific slot on the jaw. Some chucks do not identify the proper slots but they always go in order
1,2,3,4. If your chuck does not have identifying marks for the jaws it is worth your time to mark the
chuck in some manner to avoid the problem later on.

Awesome! I worked. The body of the chuck doesn't have indications of which jaw goes where but some trial and error and the rubber band got it back to true. Thanks so much Mike.
 
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Bill Boehme

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If you go to their website you can find the instructions for assembling and disassembling the chucks. If my memory is correct, they also have a video or two.

There is a stop pin that must have been removed either accidentally or on purpose. Otherwise, the jaws can't be removed. You have to match the correct jaws with the right slot and then get them inserted in the correct sequence. I think that the clockwise sequence is 4 - 3 - 2 - 1, but it could be the other direction. Don't try to simultaneously start all of the base jaws or else everything will be out of whack.

You don't want things be out of whack, but at the same time I don't know if being "in whack" is any better. :D
 

Bill Boehme

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I was going to add more information, but the video in Reed's post covered everything. I might add a bit of translation from Oz English to US English:
  • Circlip = snap ring
  • Stop pin = roll pin
  • Crown wheel = ring gear
  • Jar = jaw. :D :D :D
  • Slod = slide. :D :D :D
I do like his clever tip about removing the #4 jaw base by "slodding" it across and removing it on the #2 side so that the roll pin doesn't need to be removed. He didn't mention lubrication, but I think that a light coating of a synthetic grease like Mobile Polyrex EM on the ring and pinion gears would be a good idea. It's actually a lubricant for electric motor bearings, but seems to be well suited for this as well. Some people don't lubricate the chuck because of the possibility of being contaminated with wood dust. Don't forget to also lube the pinion shafts and the hub of the ring gear. Also, when installing the snap ring, the sharp edge should be facing out so that it won't rub against the ring gear. On my open Oneway chucks I use a dry lubricant.

Here are a couple orientation marks in addition to the roll pin in the #4 slot. The word "AUSTRALIA" is between the #1 and #2 slots. The word "VICMARC" is between the #3 and #4 slots.
 
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Thanks for all the info. That video was great. On the video he mentioned a "stop pin" and somehow that has broken or come out, whatever, at any rate the jaws will screw out if extended to far. I'll contact VM and fins out what I can do. Really appreciate the info from all of you.
 

Bill Boehme

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Thanks for all the info. That video was great. On the video he mentioned a "stop pin" and somehow that has broken or come out, whatever, at any rate the jaws will screw out if extended to far. I'll contact VM and fins out what I can do. Really appreciate the info from all of you.


It's just a simple metric size roll pin. You can find them at most hardware stores. To remove the broken piece in the hole just use a pin punch from the back side to drive it out. To install the new one , tap it in with a small hammer and use the slot in the base jaw as a guide to determine how much to leave protruding.
 
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