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Waterproofing the inside of a turned vase?

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Evening everyone!

While looking at some vase forms with my wife I was struck by a question she asked about them. Why are they all so pretty yet not functional? In this case she was thinking "here is a pretty vase that would look lovely with a bouquet in it, yet it is purely an "art object" and can't hold water.

So my question is, has anyone played with ways of waterproofing the inside of a turned vase so it can hold water and support a bouquet in addition to being lovely to look at by itself?

Some of the epoxies used in various environments like marine use seem like they might work, but I have never seen it done on bowls. I have had some exposure to a wood treatment/clear coat called POR 15. I believe Glacier National Park tested it on wooden signs that are out in the elements and it has weathered year round exposure in a high altitude alpine environment now for a number of years with no visible degradation.

Any thoughts or experiences with this idea?

Thanks everyone!

Dave
 
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Epoxy works

I've used epoxy - both the good boat building type and the 30-minute stuff from the hardware store / home center. (5-minute epoxy isn't waterproof! :( ) I put on three thick coats, letting it set-up for a day between coats. Right now I'm using System-3 epoxy which will bond to itself if recoated within a couple of days.

The acid test: One year I gave one to our secretary. She had water in it continously for 5 months with no adverse effects. :D :D
 
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If I may....a couple of possibles here. I design my vases to hold a glass (test-tube) loose-fitting insert. I have gone as big as 3 1/2" dia. x 9" tall on the liner, just remember to maintain a loose fit for the glass liner to allow for wood movement. Smaller sizes are at Craft Supplies, and larger ones at Oddities. I have also tried the epoxy "bar-top" stuff....but prefer the glass, so I can slip them out and run them thru dishwasher. I just design the wood to hide the liner. Works for me.
Mr. Don
 
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Funny you mention POR-15

My family owns an auto parts store. POR-15 was originally designed as a rust preventative, and marketed for restoring old cars. It was originally offered only in gloss black. Let me tell you something: this stuff is amazing.

It's rock hard, yet amazingly flexible. My dad painted the inside of a paper bag with it, let it dry, then filled the bag with water. The bag sat on our counter for weeks without a drip. We also had a couple of steel items he dipped in POR-15. We used to put them on the counter and beat them with a hammer to show customers that it wouldn't chip. At the same time, we showed them a ribbon that was dipped in the stuff. You could tie it in a knot without the paint flaking off. Amazing stuff.

This flexibility is what made me think of it for sealing turned objects. They now make a couple of clear products that should work for us. I contacted the company, and they agreed that it would be suitable for the task.

POR-15 rep said:
Por15 is great on wood just clean it with our Marine Clean 10 parts warm water 1 part Marine Clean. When completely dry you would apply two thin coats of Por15. Por15 is UV sensitive so if in direct sunlight you would need to apply a topcoat. If these pieces are going to be exposed to UV rays then I suggest that you use our Glisten PC clear coat. It works great on wood too.

I haven't tried it yet, but I work a few miles from their HQ, so I'll definately get out there soon.

Oh, and don't get it on your hands :) It doesn't come off. Dad got some on his forehead and had to shave it off with a razor. We tried laquer thinner, brake cleaner, carb cleaner, you name it.

-Joe
 
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David,

I have turned several vases and as you're wife stated, they were beautiful but non-functional. I tried several different sealers and have settled on epoxy inside and polyurethane outside with excellent results. I buy it at wal-mart, the two-ton stuff, as you will want to use something that has a long set-up time for application.

Applicatio: I use a small foam brush and attack any small cracks, knots or imperfections inside the vase first then start at the bottom and make my way to the top. It is liquid and will settle towards the bottom so keep that in mind. I will also carry the epoxy just up and over the rim for a little added protection. When it has dried inspect it for any spots that may need to be tuched up. It can be sanded, turned or left as is, usually I will leave mine just as they dry up, sometimes a little rough but the high gloss is pretty cool.

We have a couple of vases that my wife has been testing for about a year now and there have been no indication of any water absorbtion. (and she tends to leave the flowers in a little too long, if you know what I mean!)

Frank D.
 
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john lucas

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You might try a trick I learned form a metal spinner who made Aladin Kerosene lamps. He put the epoxy inside and then spun the metal. The centrifugal force would spin the epoxy toward the seam in the middle and seal it. I would think you could spin the wood slowly and the epoxy would not run.
I visited Ed Lewis's shop in chattanooga. he uses an epoxy finish on his bowls. He has a series of spindles mounted to a variable speed machine that spins these spindles at 1 to 6 rpm. He puts the bowls on this and lets them spin overnight.
 
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I've been wanting to give Aluthane a try. Sounds better than Epoxy for keeping out water. Whopping $85/gal($30/quart) though is kinda steep.
 
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I've used both the test-tube (works for bud-vases) and Enviro-Tex. Which is a clear food-grade two part coating.

Some friends was a black two part coating, that I am not recalling right now
 
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Good Morning everyone!

Thanks for all the additional Great Ideas! After the first round of thoughts I contacted West Systems and they recommended their clear coat product for this. I picked some up but have not been home to turn a vase for a while so a test will have to wait.

One of you mentioned having the lathe spin slowly to keep the epoxy from flowing to the bottom. I will give that a try but have a feeling the end result will be that the epoxy will flow to whatever the outer most point on the spinning bowl is. That may be less noticeable then having it all pool on the bottom of the vessel though.

Another person mentioned Par14? I am trying that now on some woodwork on our old boat. So far it has lasted 2 full seasons out in the weather in coastal Washington. And I believe that a number of signs and carvings at Glacier National Park have had it on them for around 5 years now and still look great. It does seem like great stuff. Will see if I can get it shipped out here and play with that as well.

Thanks again everyone!!!

Dave
 
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Hey something I've actually done!!!

Only I used a product from Loctite called color guard

Pour it in roll it around turn it upside down and let the excess run out.

Loctite

Lowes sells it in small cans
 
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I realize this is a very old thread but maybe this will help someone else who comes across it during a search:

I bought a can of clear Flex-Seal waterproofer and coated the inside of a couple of vases. Works great! It's pretty expensive and you have to apply it with a brush but it doesn't drip off or move after it's brushed it place. If the advertising is to be believed, it will flex as the wood moves. It hasn't been long enough that I can be sure but...
 

Bill Boehme

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I believe this could be a Guinness record for the oldest infomercial ever exhumed. And, if you call in the next fifteen minutes . . . . . . .

While looking at some vase forms with my wife I was struck by a question she asked about them. Why are they all so pretty yet not functional? In this case she was thinking "here is a pretty vase that would look lovely with a bouquet in it, yet it is purely an "art object" and can't hold water.

To address the important question brought up by @David Somers my opinion is that a flower arrangement would look nice even if it were placed in a Mason jar. The viewer's eye would be drawn to the flower arrangement and the container would hardly be noticed. It's OK to turn a vase or jar to hold flowers with the understanding that the flowers will steal the show. If I turn a vase or jar that I want people to notice then I wouldn't want distractions competing for the viewers attention.
 
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Funny you mention POR-15
It's rock hard, yet amazingly flexible. My dad painted the inside of a paper bag with it, let it dry, then filled the bag with water. The bag sat on our counter for weeks without a drip. We also had a couple of steel items he dipped in POR-15. We used to put them on the counter and beat them with a hammer to show customers that it wouldn't chip. At the same time, we showed them a ribbon that was dipped in the stuff. You could tie it in a knot without the paint flaking off. Amazing stuff.

This flexibility is what made me think of it for sealing turned objects. They now make a couple of clear products that should work for us. I contacted the company, and they agreed that it would be suitable for the task.

-Joe

Talk about sealing - POR-15 will apparently even seal it's own can. Permanently. (POR-15 site) Tip: Place plastic wrap between the lid and the can lip to prevent POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating from permanently sealing the can shut.
 
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