14" or 17" Bandsaw?

[Bobby Smith]

So I have a 20 yr old 10" bench top bandsaw. The motors finally getting weak, I just replaced the capacitor a while back and the 1/3hp motor just doesn't seem strong enough to cut some bone. It actually slowed my blade down enough that it broke my blade. So I'm thinking it's time to upgrade. As the 10" only has about a 4" height cut, I was looking at a 14" bandsaw. Looking at the Grizzly's btw. The Jets are a little too high for me. Now the grizzly has a 14" extreme that has a 1 1/2hp motor. Of course the cutting height is still only a little above 6". I can buy an extension kit to take it to a 12" and that kit costs about $100. I can get a grizzly 17", which has the 12" cutting hieght for $70 more which is cheaper than the extension kit. But I'm wondering if the 17" is just overkill. I do like the idea of a 12" cut on the 17" saw as wanting to get more into turning larger bowls one day, it will cut bigger logs. But I'm not at that point right now. So I come to the minds of the professionals here for your opinions. Would you get one that will take care of my future needs now, or just wait to see if I progress and get the smaller one and just upgrade later?
Just food for thought, I looked at a couple reviews for the harbor freight and northern bandsaws and the reviews are not the best. So I've decided to just spend a little more to get better quality. Looking forward to your opinions.
I was looking at 2 Grizzly's. They have the G0555X which is 14" and a 1 1/2hp motor, Table is 20 1/2" x 14". It's $855. But the 17" has a 2hp motor for $70 more. The table is 17" x 17". Its the G0513anv.
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-14-Extreme-Series-Bandsaw/G0555X
https://www.grizzly.com/products/Grizzly-17-2-HP-Bandsaw-Anniversary-Edition/G0513ANV

 

[Dan Hall]

I don't know how much a grizzly cost but I do know that older Powermatic stuff doesn't wear out other than bearings. I saw a Pea Green (McMinnville) 17" PM bandsaw for $900 on Craigslist the other day. That's one heck of a saw and it would likely last you the rest of your life and into your kids's. New bearings for the wheels and motor would cost about $20. Just remember: If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

 

[Bobby Smith]

I don't know how much a grizzly cost but I do know that older Powermatic stuff doesn't wear out other than bearings. I saw a Pea Green (McMinnville) 17" PM bandsaw for $900 on Craigslist the other day. That's one heck of a saw and it would likely last you the rest of your life and into your kids's. New bearings for the wheels and motor would cost about $20. Just remember: If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

Thanks Dan, there aren't any on craigslist around here. Plus I don't think I want to go used. Unless someone is upgrading or moving, there reasons for selling that I may not find until I've gotten it home. Lol The only comparable Powermatic that I see to the Grizzly 17" is about $3000 and it's only 220v. I didn't mention that I have to stay with 110/120v here. The Grizzly is actually interchangeable from it's prewired 220v down to 110v. I know it will lose a little power going down in voltage but with 2hp , it shouldn't be too bad.

 

[Gary Beasley]

If its a choice between a 14” with a riser or a 17” the 17” wins hands down. Its going to have a beefier frame, wider radius is going to make the blades last longer and you should be able to use the wider blades for resaw.

 

[Bobby Smith]

Yea Gary, it does have the optional resaw extension for the fence.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Of the two options you are looking at I would go for the 17".

 

[Damon McLaughlin]

Bobby,

I don't have a Grizzly but I'm exceptionally with my Rikon 10-326. It comes wired for 110v and has the option to be re-wired to 220v. I've maxed out the 13" cutting height several times and haven't had any issues. The fence is very nice and easy to adjust. I broke the handle to the fence when I dropped it yet Rikon still covered it under its five year warranty. I wouldn't hesitate to buy it again, it does everything I need. The price is very comparable as it can usually be found with free shipping, and Rikon usually has them at 10% off a few times a year. The 10-325 also has a tall resaw capacity.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Thanks Dan, there aren't any on craigslist around here. Plus I don't think I want to go used. Unless someone is upgrading or moving, there reasons for selling that I may not find until I've gotten it home. Lol The only comparable Powermatic that I see to the Grizzly 17" is about $3000 and it's only 220v. I didn't mention that I have to stay with 110/120v here. The Grizzly is actually interchangeable from it's prewired 220v down to 110v. I know it will lose a little power going down in voltage but with 2hp , it shouldn't be too bad.

The 14" with the riser kit suffers somewhat from frame flexing which would be a concern for resawing veneer, but might not be an issue if you only want it to cut turning blanks. I don't know anything about the 17" Grizzly, but I would give it serious consideration if it fits your budget. Regarding the difference between wiring the motor for 120 volts versus 240 volts, it is a widely held misconception that wiring it for 240 volts enables greater power output . That is totally false. There is not one iota of difference in the mechanical output power. So, if you are limited to 120 volts, you should be good to go if you have a dedicated 20 Amp branch circuit.

 

[Jon Minerich]

Bobby,
I have a 17” Grizzly and use it regularly. It is a great bandsaw. I upgraded from a 14” Delta and there is no comparison. Buy the 17” and you will never regret it.
Jon

 

[Karl Loeblein]

I have a 17" Jet bandsaw, but someday I hope to find a decently priced 20" at an estate sale or auction. I agree with the others about buying the 17".

-Karl

PS. If you go through a lot of blades then learn how to braze (aka silver solder) bands from bulk blade reels you can find on eBay. It's cut my blade cost to less than half.

 

[robo hippy]

You won't need the bigger saw height until you buy the shorter saw.... I haven't used one of the riser kits, but wouldn't get one, just not strong enough for one that is built to go that high in the first place. Not sure about Bill's comment about 'no power difference between 120 and 220', but when I was reading about every thing for woodshops, several books said that any motor 1 hp and up ran better/more efficiently on 220 current. It might be worth looking into getting a 220 circuit in the shop, especially if you ever get a bigger lathe...

robo hippy

 

[Bobby Smith]

The problem is when they built this shop, before I bought the house, the whole shop is run on a 60amp breaker from house. I put a 220v for my rv but dont really run that. So I have to be careful about how many tools I would be running at the same time. This would be my reasoning for rewiring it down to 110v. I have 30amp plugins, so I at least have those to use. I know 220v would run on lower amperage but then its an insulated shop and I would have to tear out a good section of wall to run the 220 outlet and make it look good. I will more than likely just keep it at 110.

 

[Gary Beasley]

If you have acces to the overhead it may be better to run the 220 overhead and do a drop down plug or simply put the outlet in the ceiling if its easy to reach. Thats how I have my 220 for my lathe.

 

[William Rogers]

Bobby, go with the 17". I have a 14" jet I have had for ++years and added the riser 5-6 years ago. Some speculate the riser is not that good, but I haven't had any problems. However if buying new I would buy 17' or larger as 14" doesn't have enough cutting height.

 

[Bobby Smith]

Thats an idea Gary. I don't know, I may contemplate that. The only issue I would have is making sure it would be a permanent spot for the saw. I have a tendency to move things around as I get other tools.

 

[Gary Beasley]

Thats an idea Gary. I don't know, I may contemplate that. The only issue I would have is making sure it would be a permanent spot for the saw. I have a tendency to move things around as I get other tools.

Then nice thing it you should be able to move the plug if you need to. Just leave some slack in the wiring upstairs so you can pick your place.

 

[Bobby Smith]

Then nice thing it you should be able to move the plug if you need to. Just leave some slack in the wiring upstairs so you can pick your place.

No upstairs on this shop Gary! Lol This is a steel building with beams protruding. In order for me to run overhead, I will have to screw into the beams in order to secure the wire running across the ceiling. It is about a 40' foot run and then down to where I would have to put the outlet. I was looking in my shop a bit ago and I just think it's going to be too much of a hassle to run it and make it look good. I don't want to drill holes in the beams which would help hide the wire to a certain extent. I think I'm just gonna re-wire the saw to 110v. I have 30amp plugins so I don't really have to do anything else. I appreciate your input though! I wish they would have done a 220 setup originally but the house was built in the 80's and the main house box looks like it was only setup for a 140 amps anyway.

 

[Dan Hall]

Have you considered taking half and hour to 45 minutes to learn how to use an EMT (electrical metallic conduit) bender? Surface mounted outlets along walls can be spaced at intervals to accommodate any sort of equipment reorganization or spring cleaning that can be imagined. Believe me, as a long time electric shop teacher it's much easier than turning bowls, using a skew, or hollowing a vessel.

 

[Mike Johnson]

The 17" option is the way to go if you are spending good money on a new machine, 120V or 220V should not be a concern, you can only operate one machine at a time while in your shop, so the service capacity really does not matter when considering typical wood working equipment for a home use shop. If you had other loads running at the same time that pulled higher amperage it might be a concern, throw an amprobe clamp meter on the service entrance while you have a typical load on your equipment and check to see how much current you are pulling in your shop.

 

[Bobby Smith]

Ok, so I just pulled the trigger on this beauty!

 

[Dave DeJong]

I like it! I'm looking at getting a Grizzly saw sometime down the line. They seem to get good reviews at least the one I'm looking at. Got it set up yet?

 

[Bobby Smith]

I like it! I'm looking at getting a Grizzly saw sometime down the line. They seem to get good reviews at least the one I'm looking at. Got it set up yet?

I just ordered it this evening. Hopefully will get it by next wknd.

 

[Robert Satterfield]

I have three 220 circuits in my garage...one dedicated to a heater and two on Kellet Grips. The grips allow me to adjust the height above the floor and the extra cable allows me to move machine and their electron feed where I need it...I've never had two 220V machines operating simultaneously so the second drop could be considered a luxury...but very nice to have! My understanding is that a 110 motor rewired to 220 will run cooler...others know better than I!

 

[Bobby Smith]

From what I understand, and I'm not an electrician, the only difference between 120 and 220 is amperage. This particular saw will draw 20amps at 120v and draw 10 amps at 220v. 220v is basically just splitting the lines to run 10amps on one and 10amps on the other. I guess this would be why some say it runs smoother. I think it basically just makes the wiring run cooler so there isn't an overload on the wiring or breaker. I have a dedicated 30amp breaker and I only have my 3hp tablesaw on it. I plan to put the bandsaw on that circuit as I won't ever be using both saws at one time. As it may help the motor to run a little better, I'm not a wood worker that uses my saws daily. Just a hobbyist that piddles on the wknds. Plus, when we are finally able to move from the oilfield and go back to East Texas, I will have a shop that will have 220v. Lol

 

[Bill Boehme]

.... My understanding is that a 110 motor rewired to 220 will run cooler...others know better than I!

That's the folklore that I mentioned earlier. The only good reason for wiring the motor for 240 volts would be to save a few dollars in the cost of the wire since 10 gauge wire costs a bit more than 12 gauge wire.

From what I understand, and I'm not an electrician, the only difference between 120 and 220 is amperage. This particular saw will draw 20amps at 120v and draw 10 amps at 220v. 220v is basically just splitting the lines to run 10amps on one and 10amps on the other. I guess this would be why some say it runs smoother. I think it basically just makes the wiring run cooler so there isn't an overload on the wiring or breaker. I have a dedicated 30amp breaker and I only have my 3hp tablesaw on it. I plan to put the bandsaw on that circuit as I won't ever be using both saws at one time. As it may help the motor to run a little better, I'm not a wood worker that uses my saws daily. Just a hobbyist that piddles on the wknds. Plus, when we are finally able to move from the oilfield and go back to East Texas, I will have a shop that will have 220v. Lol

Internally, the motor doesn't know the difference. There is no difference in temperature or smoothness, but if it gives you a warm fuzzy to go with 240 volts then that is all that matters.

You're supposed to have a separate branch circuit for each machine, but if you have just one outlet so that only one tool can be plugged in at a time then that would be satisfactory.

 

[robo hippy]

You may be able to replace your 60 amp breaker with a 100 amp one. They could pull wire through the existing conduit if it is there, when they pull the old wire out. I have had that done before...

robo hippy

 

[Bobby Smith]

You may be able to replace your 60 amp breaker with a 100 amp one. They could pull wire through the existing conduit if it is there, when they pull the old wire out. I have had that done before...

robo hippy

Yea I,m not even sure the route of the conduit. My shop is about 100' from the house. There are no layouts of electrical or plumbing for the shop, so I don't really know where any of that is. I'm more of a diy guy anyway and would do it my self if possible. In this area, they would charge me an arm and a leg to re-run my electrical. And I need both of those to run my lathe. Lol

 

[Tom Gall]

For what it's worth.....I only have one 240 volt circuit in my basement shop (60' long). When I bought my dust collector (2 hp) in 1986 I had to do some re-wiring. I have six 240v machines. So I installed five 240v outlets, and four (3-pole & 4-pole?) on/off switches which are conveniently located next to or near the machines. These four switches control the dust collector (always plugged in). All the machines are plugged into an outlet and controlled by their own on/off switch. This has worked well for over thirty years. I rarely have more than one machine + dust collector on at the same time, otherwise I would probably blow the circuit. Not being an electrician I don't know if I would remember how to wire all this up today!

 

[Bobby Smith]

I've done wiring before. I rebuilt my garage in an older house years ago and put in all the electric. I don't mind running a circuit but the way this present shop was wired, I'd have to tear out a wall to find out where the electric comes in. It's not metered so it runs about 100' to my house. Between the house and shop is an easement right of way that the neighbor has used for years to store his racing car trailers. Pretty packed down there. The conduit comes up at the corner of the house and looks like it's only about 1". I would bet would be almost impossible to pull another line thru or even use existing to re-pull. I have the 60amp breaker in the shop and I'd rather not raise that with the whole house being on a 140amp breaker. I would rather trip the shop breaker if something shorted out than trip the main house breaker. At least tripping at the shop would help prevent burning up the wires in the conduit from shop to house.

 

[Tom Gall]

I've done wiring before. I rebuilt my garage in an older house years ago and put in all the electric. I don't mind running a circuit but the way this present shop was wired, I'd have to tear out a wall to find out where the electric comes in. It's not metered so it runs about 100' to my house. Between the house and shop is an easement right of way that the neighbor has used for years to store his racing car trailers. Pretty packed down there. The conduit comes up at the corner of the house and looks like it's only about 1". I would bet would be almost impossible to pull another line thru or even use existing to re-pull. I have the 60amp breaker in the shop and I'd rather not raise that with the whole house being on a 140amp breaker. I would rather trip the shop breaker if something shorted out than trip the main house breaker. At least tripping at the shop would help prevent burning up the wires in the conduit from shop to house.

Bobby... I assume you mean a 60 amp panel box and not a 60 amp circuit breaker. That would make it even easier to add a new 30 amp 240v circuit breaker to run a new line. My 50+ year old house only has a 100 amp service panel which is in the garage. It is more than totally full! I've always wanted to add a 60 amp panel in my basement but never got around to it.

 

[Bobby Smith]

The main house panel has a 140amp main breaker. There is a 60amp breaker in that panel box that goes to my shop. Not sure the size of wire going to the shop. The shop panel box has 220 going to it but it was only setup with 110 breakers for lights and outlets. I put a 220 circuit in it for our RV parked by the shop, which we don't use right now, just for lights in the thing. So all my outlets and lights are running from the 60amp breaker from the main house. I could put another 220 breaker in the shop panel box but then I'm not sure how much the breaker at the house would handle if I'm using a 220 saw and lights, refrigerator, tv. etc... Lol

 

[Bobby Smith]

Well, out with the old and in with the new. Took a couple hours to get it setup. Not a whole lot of assembly but doing adjustments and all, it went very well. Next thing is to build a sled for it.

 

[Bill Boehme]

Well, out with the old and in with the new. Took a couple hours to get it setup. Not a whole lot of assembly but doing adjustments and all, it went very well. Next thing is to build a sled for it.

View attachment 28249

That's a very nice looking bandsaw.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Congratulations on the new "baby".

 

[John Rander]

That's a great looking bandsaw (a little envious here ). Have fun with it!

 

[Gary Beasley]

Sweet! You did yourself a good one!

 

[Bobby Smith]

Yea, my 20 yr old 10" just wasn't cutting it anymore.

 

[Don Wattenhofer]

The 14" with the riser kit suffers somewhat from frame flexing which would be a concern for resawing veneer, but might not be an issue if you only want it to cut turning blanks. I don't know anything about the 17" Grizzly, but I would give it serious consideration if it fits your budget. Regarding the difference between wiring the motor for 120 volts versus 240 volts, it is a widely held misconception that wiring it for 240 volts enables greater power output . That is totally false. There is not one iota of difference in the mechanical output power. So, if you are limited to 120 volts, you should be good to go if you have a dedicated 20 Amp branch circuit.

There is a possible problem with starting a motor on 120 volt circuits in that the run current is double that of the 240 volt circuit which means that the starting current will also be double. If the motor is connected to a 15 amp 120 volt lighting circuit with 14 ga. wire there could be excessive volt drop on start up that may prevent the motor getting up to speed.

 

[John Spitters]

My shop is fed from a 60 amp breaker in my house panel, my main house panel is only 125 amps,from it there is a 100 breaker that goes to a separate 100 amp sub that supplies all power requirements for a fully contained suite in our home. There is an addition 40 amp sub in my 3 car garage that also feeds off of the main panel and then there is the 60 amp feed that goes to another sub panel in my shop.the 60 amp sub in the shop is actually a 24 space 100amp panel box with a 60 amp main breaker in place of the 100 amp.
I have dedicated lines to all my larger machines, a 30 amp 220v for my Laguna 16HD bandsaw, a 20 amp 220v for my 3hp cabinet saw, a 30amp 220v for my 3hp cyclone DC, a 30amp 220v to my 3hp planer and a 20amp 220 to my VL300 lathe. In addition to all of these I have perhaps 20 or more 20amp 110v wall plugs split over 3 breakers and a dozen or more 20 amp 220v wall 0lugs split between two breakers, plus a spare 30amp 220v plug for a future welder. And 3 separate breakers for all of the shop lighting.
All of this is on a 60 amp feed, done to code by a licensed electrician, inspected and passed by the electrical authority.

 

[Bobby Smith]

My shop is fed from a 60 amp breaker in my house panel, my main house panel is only 125 amps,from it there is a 100 breaker that goes to a separate 100 amp sub that supplies all power requirements for a fully contained suite in our home. There is an addition 40 amp sub in my 3 car garage that also feeds off of the main panel and then there is the 60 amp feed that goes to another sub panel in my shop.the 60 amp sub in the shop is actually a 24 space 100amp panel box with a 60 amp main breaker in place of the 100 amp.
I have dedicated lines to all my larger machines, a 30 amp 220v for my Laguna 16HD bandsaw, a 20 amp 220v for my 3hp cabinet saw, a 30amp 220v for my 3hp cyclone DC, a 30amp 220v to my 3hp planer and a 20amp 220 to my VL300 lathe. In addition to all of these I have perhaps 20 or more 20amp 110v wall plugs split over 3 breakers and a dozen or more 20 amp 220v wall 0lugs split between two breakers, plus a spare 30amp 220v plug for a future welder. And 3 separate breakers for all of the shop lighting.
All of this is on a 60 amp feed, done to code by a licensed electrician, inspected and passed by the electrical authority.

That's a lot of worthy outlets. If you are the only person that works with the machinery then I see no problems. But 60 amps is still the breaking point no matter how many outlets you have. Not that I couldn't run a 220v outlet, but I really don't see the need to. This machine is designed to run off either. I plugged this into my 30amp 110/120v outlet and it kicks off just fine. I just cut me a piece of bone on it this evening and no drag or anything. I think it'll be just fine. If I was going to live the rest of my life in this house, I would probably have the wiring upgraded. For now I'll just use what is available.