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4 legged stools

I like your reach for 4 legged stool.....most are machine factory made.....3 legged stools are what you find directions for because easier to get level.....go for it
 
I built a couple of 4 legged shop stools a long time ago using an article in fine woodworking as a guide.

Three legged stools always have all three feet on the floor.
I think 4 legged stools are a bit sturdier to sit on and the angles for the legs and stretchers are easier to get my head around.

In the article the guy glued it all up then sawed off the end of the long leg.
I figured if that were me with my sawyer skills I would always have a long leg and end up with a foot stool.
When I was ready to glue up I glued(titebond) and fit it all together used 4 web clamps 2 across each pair of stretchers to keep the legs together put the stool on a level surface ang put a bag of concrete on the stool with a protective cover underneath it. Let the glue set overnight. The joints level under the weight.
My leg end are just rounded over against the tail center. They are shop stools.

I can take a photo and measure angles.
You can look up the seat heights for table, bar, counter.
 
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Thanks Al and everyone. Looking forward to this. I'll check for the Fine Woodworking article.

Here's a lousy picture of the seat for one of the foot stools. It's a pine burl that dried for 15 years. My customer wants it epoxied, so no oil on here yet. Should really pop.
 

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I've made a bunch of 3 legged Windsor style stools and 2 4 legged. the 4 legged are more stable and don't tip as easily, however your floor better be flat. Tall 3 legged stool tip really easily unless they have a wide base and fairly heavy. I have a 3 legged one I use in the shop and it's made from Yellow Poplar. It's so light it tips really easily. It's really easy to find photos of 4 legged stools but I don't know where an article is. I found this one really quickly. did a search for plans for 4 legged stool. there were others.
http://www.nickcookwoodturner.com/articles-stools.pdf
 
Using a chunk of endgrain will add to the difficulty. I typically used wedges to lock in the leg and if you do that the endgrain will probably split. You will be forced to drill the hole and then cut a tenon that barely goes in the hole. Too tight and it will split. Titebond glue should hold the leg firmly. Hope no one accidently kicks a leg. Allyn
 
Arkriver said:
Using a chunk of endgrain will add to the difficulty. I typically used wedges to lock in the leg and if you do that the endgrain will probably split. You will be forced to drill the hole and then cut a tenon that barely goes in the hole. Too tight and it will split. Titebond glue should hold the leg firmly. Hope no one accidently kicks a leg. Allyn
Click to expand...

I hear you on the endgrain. Thankfully it is knotty as all heck. No free unsupported legs...this might be a bear, but I'm willing to give it a go.

And Bill...at least I'm fairly sure at least three legs will touch the floor at a time. :)
 
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