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A List and Review of the new PowerMatic 3520b lathe features

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The new PM3520b lathe was unveiled at the AAW symposium in Kansas City last week by WMH Tools, the parent company of the PM brand. I spent quite a bit of time in the booth looking the lathe over and discussing the features with the product director. Please note that I am not affiliated with the company in any way. From my observations, here is a list of the new or modified features below. There are 6 total pictures....one is attached in the next posting.

New or modified features:
  • RPM: a new RPM display readout on the headstock facing the turner
  • Headstock: top of the flat headstock now has a slight recess across the entire top, which holds a rubber corrugated mat so you can put stuff up there (nice idea)
  • Controller: a different controller on the back, not substantially different from the old one
  • Indexer: built-in indexer on the inboard side of the spindle on the headstock
  • Tailstock: crank was chromed and slightly redesigned
  • Legs: supporting legs have an additional set of brackets providing the ability to more easily build a shelf underneath the bed
  • Legs: threaded holes on the outside areas of both sets of legs
  • Legs: threaded holes on inboard side allow for 18" bed extension to be mounted low so that large bowls can be turned
  • Legs: threaded holes on outboard side of headstock had an optional toolshelf mounted on those legs
  • Banjo: has lateral slots running across the whole banjo on both sides
  • Banjo: those slots provide a mounting point for an optional sliding dusthood for use during sanding (kinda neat)
  • Brackets: the tailstock and headstock have mounting brackets which extend away from the turner, where they allow a spindle to be mounted for reference during reproduction spindle work
  • Locks: redesigned "locks" at end of each bed to prevent headstock and tailstock from sliding out (can be retrofitted on current model)
  • Banjo: was keyed/slotted in the toolpost holder - so that a keyed toolpost could be inserted, thus locking the toolpost so there is absolutely zero rotational slippage
  • Headstock: has been chamfered in one area - the entire edge right near the spindle...allowing for easier access to the turning very close to the spindle
  • Headstock: the belt/sheave door is now spring loaded instead of being held by a threaded knob
  • Quill: on the tailstock is laser etched allowing for an easier visual gauge of how far the ram is being moved
  • Tailstock: now has a storage door in the existing big cavity facing the turner
  • Stock toolrest: has a steeper bevel along the top of the toolrest, allowing for the turner to drop their toolhandle lower and still have contact with the top of the toolrest
  • Slide Hammer: chrome knockout slide-hammer provided for knocking out a drive center

Features which were unchanged:
- spindle lock is the same
- 2HP motor is the same
- knobs and levers all exactly the same
- same colors, and the rest of the lathe was the same

Comments about the features:
I think most of these are good innovations. The biggest obvious change is the RPM readout. Good for beginners...but once you have 200 hours of turning experience it is kinda useless.

The 2HP motor is decent. Amongst the suggestions I made was that they have an option for a 3HP motor (accompanied by a proper controller to handle the increased load).

As Mike Schwing has noted on another forum...they didn't change the spindle lock!! It is still spring loaded and can't be locked. The product director indicated that WMH tools kept that design so that a turner would not accidently turn on the lathe while the spindle lock was engaged. We spent a lot of time discussing that one item. I agree with Mike that this is a major misdesigned feature on the 3520 product line. To be clear - a person should be able to engage and lock the spindle lock without manually holding the button in.

The headstock lock, tailstock lock, and banjo locks are unchanged. We discussed that too. I am an agressive turner and I frequently have to crank down to ensure those locks hold the components locked to the lathe. The product director indicated that most people do not have those problems. I counter argued that most people probably don't turn 100+ pounds on a regular basis.

They passed out a few DVDs on the 3520b, and I obtained one. One of the procedures they show on the DVD is how to adjust the retaining nut on bearings in the headstock. After your lathe gets 1,000 hours of usage you may want to check and potentially adjust yours. I have already done this procedure about 6 months ago.

The potentiometer on the headstock - which is used to change the lathe speed (i.e. 0-1200 RPMs) will fail at some point. The product director was impressed that mine lasted this long (2,200 hours -2,600 hours usage). He indicated that accumulated dust usually causes them to fail at some point.

In summary, the symposium is a great place to get exposure to vendors. The WMH tools folks were very courteous and knowledgeable about their product. It was fun talking directly to the folks who are representing their product. There were other new/modified products at the symposium. But I wanted to focus this thread on the 3520b features. If you have any questions I'll try to answer them.

After typing all this I realize that I am now officially a turning geek. The words "quill" and "sheave" are now just part of my vocabulary and it is doubtful that I can ever escape the woodturning vortex at this point. :cool2:
 

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Hi Jeff,

Great post and great pictures. As a PM3520a owner (for about 2 months) I am a little disappointed because I contacted WMH group (which happen to be 30 minutes down the road from me) to inquire about the "b" model and was given some corporate hogwash about it being in the distant future. On the other hand, I bought my "a" model from Joe Osolnik and got a superb deal and every accessory in the known universe and came very close to beating the street price done in such impressive graphics on the model in your pictures. Seeing what the updates are to the "b" also takes away some of the sting. I use the flat naked top of mine for a magnetic light that is perfect for my needs and the remainder of the changes are either addressed by my accessories or, so trivial that they are unimportant.

Thanks Again!

Chris
 
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Ron Sardo

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Thanks Jeff

Is this a prototype, if not, did they say when it will be ready for market?
 
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Chris - I somewhat agree. But I've been in the marketing world, and it's best to promise something will come later then deliver it sooner.....than it is to promise it will come soon and be late in the delivery.

Ron - they said it's pretty much ready for the market. They will sell of existing stock and then start selling the 3520b. We really didn't have a lot of discussion about how they would move the product. The unit on the showroom was ready for prime time and not jury rigged. It's not clear they have the factory setup for all the changes. Maybe it would be good to poll WMH directly.
 
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thanks for the review

Jeff,

Am I wrong, it looks as though they offset the tool post on the banjo? We'll have to wait to see if that becomes a plus or minus. Also by moving the spindle lock more to to the rear of the head stock it seems to add to problem of manually holding the spindle locking button. I was sure that would have been one of the design changes. All in all the other changes will probably be welcomed by future buyers.
 
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Jake - holy smokes, I hadn't even realized they offset the toolpost. You're right, it is offset. That might be useful in some situations.

I don't think any experienced turner will be happy with the spindle lock situation until they engineer it to allow for a no-hands locked position.

Item M:
Another item I should have discussed in the review was the reason for the redesigned locks in item #M. Those locks allow both the headstock and tailstock to slide partially off the bed before the "lock" engages with the bottom locking block on the bottom of the headstock or tailstock. As a result this can potentially increase the useful length of the lathe.

This was demonstrated on the floor model. We slid the tailstock partly off the lathe and it was stopped by the redesigned lock-pin thingy. That would be most useful for spindle turners. Also useful for folks roughing the outside of a very large vase from a log - which I have done. Sometimes a few extra inches helps. The new design can easily be replicated on existing 3520a lathes. However, I would be careful while drilling since you can only drill the hole once.
 
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Is the PM 3520B worth another $450+

Jeff, thanks for taking the time to check out the 3520B, and writing up this well done report (and pictures too!). I have been putting off upgrading to a bigger lathe until I could compare the 3520 A & B. I too received a "story" from WMH about a 2006 target date for the 3520B.
Anyway, I do like the RPM indicator, though not $450 worth.
I tend to agree with your assessment of the spring loaded spindle-lock button. Though from the look of the winged guard protecting it, all I would do is drill a hole through both wings at a level that a #10 bolt could just be passed over the depressed spindle-lock button, holding it in the engaged position. I figure that if someone starts the lathe with the spindle locked, they will notice it is not turning soon enough. :) The remainder of the modifications are not worth the extra money (to me). So my dilemma remains, a choice between the PM 3520A, or the PM 4224.
 
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Though I know there's no connection :p , it has to be a bit grating to have your supplier use a Delta controller on your demo lathe. You'd think they'd have found an alternative.
 
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GBJ said:
I tend to agree with your assessment of the spring loaded spindle-lock button. Though from the look of the winged guard protecting it, all I would do is drill a hole through both wings at a level that a #10 bolt could just be passed over the depressed spindle-lock button, holding it in the engaged position. I figure that if someone starts the lathe with the spindle locked, they will notice it is not turning soon enough. :)

GBJ,

I did what you suggested on my "A" model last year. I included one additonal feature. Instead of a bolt, a 3/16" piece of aluminum rod was used and bent in such a configuration that it covers the on/off switch when the spindle is locked. Thus reminding the operator to remove the lock before turning on the machine. :D
 
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The 3520b is still a pretty good lathe from a price/feature standpoint. WMH Tools is being a bit conservative with their expansion of the lathe product line however.

As an example, there are no addons (or lathes) which would allow one to turn a 30" platter/bowl. We have discussed this item in the forum before. The new 3520b is partways there since they have now put a set of mounting holes lower on the legs. But it lacks purchasable risers for the tailstock and banjo. If WMH manufactured those, then people might be more inclined to buy the options.
 
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Thanks Jeff!

Jeff,

Thanks for all of the photos.

Looks like the motor shaft is longer since they moved the belts to the other end of the headstock. Wonder if the built in indexer uses holes in the belt pulley now? The only thing I would use the Tach for is to remind me to unplug the lathe at the end of the day since I’m usually down on the other end when turning. I think if I was on the fence about buying the 3520a or waiting for the “b†I’d look for a deal on the “a†model and buy $300 worth of tools or burls.

Gerry
 
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Adding my thanks Jeff

An excellent review and photos. I received my 'Model A' in late June 2005. The tail stock quill was laser etched in inches - praise the designers - I thought they were all that way. Appears some of the new stuff is creeping into the current supply line.

Was there any discussion or mention of the add-ons being available in the future? In particular that tail stock spindle holding bracket dodad? Looked like the spindle holding dodad incorporated a couple of friction fit? hold in points. Reason I am so curious is I have 45 - 30" porch spindles to turn.

Thanks again
 
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Thanks for the review Jeff,

A couple more questions.

1. Is the spindle holding attachement removable from the tailstock? The tailstock is already pretty heavy and if it is part of the cast it seems like it would make it pretty uncomfortable to take it off and on. I see the bolts, but it almost looks like there is a painted seam there.

2. Were any modifications made for a vacuum chuck? I thought that I had read that they were going to add some type of vacuum chuck adapter.

Thanks,

Doug
 
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Thanks for the kudos on the review folks, I'm glad it is helpful.

Gerry - I think the indexer is not a full feature indexer. Unfortunately I did not ask detailed questions about that feature. There are several holes in the protrusion which sticks out on the spindle side. I believe the indexed holes are directly in the spindle or some lock collar around the shaft in that area.

Mort - I wasn't sure how useful the laser etched lines on the quill would be. For some folks it might be a real nice feature. About the add-ons : I think everything attached to the lathe is part of the whole package with 2 exceptions. The dust hood was stated as optional. And second - the toolholder on the outboard side is possible an option.

The 2 brackets hanging on the headstock and tailstock to mount spindles - those are part of the base 3520b package. At least that's what I recall from the discussion. They were specifically designed for spindles as you mentioned. We didn't discuss the brackets much because I almost never turn spindles - so that feature didn't apply to me personally. If I did turn spindles, I think that feature would be very handy to have.
 
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Spindle Lock Mod

Good safety idea, Jake. Am I close to correct in thinking that most folks intentionally leave just enough slack in the drive belt tension to avoid damage if the machine were started with a locked spindle or a serious catch does not lift you off the floor? My lathe is only a 10", and I leave a bit slack in the belt.
 
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Nice job on the review, Jeff.

With a bit of drilling and tapping, a good number of those features can be added to the 3520a. But all in all, I'm not going to put my 3520a on Ebay and rush down to Redmond Machinery to get on the waiting list for a 3520b ;) .
 
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Can't speak for anyone else but.....

GBJ said:
Am I close to correct in thinking that most folks intentionally leave just enough slack in the drive belt tension to avoid damage if the machine were started with a locked spindle or a serious catch does not lift you off the floor? My lathe is only a 10", and I leave a bit slack in the belt.

....I let the loosened motor settle, then put slight down pressure on the lift lever with my hand. This seems to give the belt enough grip for the turning I do, but it will slip if the operator, me, :D does something dumb. Judging from reading past posts someone like Jeff would need more tension because of the size pieces he usually does. I guess what I'm saying is you have to fit things to your particular needs.
 
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For belt tension - Jake is correct. Since I turn a lot of large pieces the belt tension is probably tighter than a lathe used by a spindle turner. The tension is loose enough to freewheel slightly if a catch occurs. When a catch occurs it is very evident to the lathe because it squeals loudly.
 

Bill Boehme

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MichaelMouse,

Though I know there's no connection :p , it has to be a bit grating to have your supplier use a Delta controller on your demo lathe. You'd think they'd have found an alternative. As you said, there is no connection between B&D/Delta and the controller maker Delta (there must be a hundred companies named Delta) and I am sure that Delta (the woodworking tool maker) would not run into any similar "problem" using a controller with a Powermatic brand on it. There are probably a couple dozen companies making motor controllers and Delta is well known and makes fairly decent V/F controllers at a very attractive price -- attractive enough to ignore the Delta name, apparently.

By the way, I was looking at one of the original Powermatic 3520 lathes (before rev. A) and saw that they used Baldor controllers and Baldor motors.

Concerning the spindle lock issue, I have started my Delta lathe with the spindle lock engaged (ruined the pulley). I have been rebuilding my lathe to improve some of their design problems in the Reeves drive (not related to the spindle locking incident) and while I am at it, I plan to install a microswitch on the spindle lock as a power lockout device. The microswitch will actuate a power relay in series with the power switch. There is no reason that Powermatic couldn't do something similar. I have considered removing the spindle lock mechanism altogether since I have not used it so far, but maybe I will one of these days.

Bill
 
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Risers for low-mounted extension?

Jeff Jilg said:
As an example, there are no addons (or lathes) which would allow one to turn a 30" platter/bowl. We have discussed this item in the forum before. The new 3520b is partways there since they have now put a set of mounting holes lower on the legs. But it lacks purchasable risers for the tailstock and banjo. If WMH manufactured those, then people might be more inclined to buy the options.

Jeff, thanks for the pics and write up. I have some questions about using the bed extension inboard and using the new lower mounting holes for increased capacity. Do you know what the capacity would be? Based on your familiarity with your own 3520A, would it be practical to fabricate risers for the tailstock and banjo, perhaps out of stacked and glued MDF? Or would it be better to just plan on purchasing a tall banjo from Oneway Non-Oneway Banjos? Then you'd just have to fab a tailstock riser (well, only if you felt you needed the tailstock), would that be more reasonable? I'm not too close to being in the market to upgrade yet, (uh, I think, but ya never know), and the greater capacity isn't crucial to me, but I'm trying to think long term. Thanks again!
Stuart
 
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Hi Stuart,

You are thinking along the same lines which a few of us on this forum have thought about before. I do think you have good ideas. Also I think the new mounting holes on inboard and outboard legs allow for options you have suggested. I'm glad that PowerMatic has implemented the new holes in the legs so they will be a good option for future buyers.

A tall banjo from Oneway or another manufacturer would be good. I didn't measure the new throw which would occur if one mounted the extension into the new holes. But it should allow for at least a 30" piece to be created...and that is BIG!

For a tailstock riser, maybe it would be possible to use one from another manufacturer. The new WoodTek #1 lathe featured by Woodworker Supply has options for both a riser and a tall banjo. There are some features I don't like about the WoodTek, but that is off topic in this thread. The tall banjo and the tailstock riser are in the left side of the attached photo. Unfortunately the tailstock is partially obscured by the facemask.

I have just tried to read the PowerMatic DVD which they gave me at the tradeshow booth. I'm going to have to borrow a newer PC here to read it.

woodtek #1 lathe.jpg
 
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Jeff, thanks for your hard work on this. I just returned from vacation so am just now reading the post. I too carefully looked at the B while in KC as my friend Nick Cook was demonstrating on it. I was impressed with the lathe, with similar disappointments in some simple omissions such as the lock. As the owner of the 00003 original 3520, any of these innovations seems great, especially a through hole in the tailstock.
You did fail to mention the martini compartment in the tailstock which will keep the shavings out of glass. Nice.
Thanks again for your thoroughness and the inclusion of pictures.
David Galloway
 
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3520b Operations Manual PDF on WMH Tool

Powermatic/WMH has the 3320b on their website, including a downloadable PDF manual. One item of interest I saw relevant to earlier posts on this thread was that they include as standard a tool rest extension post, to be used when the bed extension is mounted inboard in order to increase swing. Didn't see anything for a tailstock riser.

3520b at WMH Tool website

Stuart
 
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I may have neglected to note the redesigned banjo in my review. If you look at the picture on WMH's site you may notice that the toolrest is slightly offset to the inboard side of the banjo. In the old model, the toolrest was directly in-line with and on top of the banjo. I think this is a small but good design feature on their part.
 

Andy Hoyt

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Jeff, great job, Thanks.

I've read the pdf'd manual from the PM website and was amazed that I could not find the answer to this question.

What is the diameter of the tool rest post?

I ask because I'm about to buy a new machine and already have many custom made tool rests and am wondering if I'd have to remake them to accomodate a different diameter hole in the offset banjo.
 
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The toolrest post is 1.0" in diameter. I have made custom toolrests using stock 1.0" bar stock for the vertical post. It required very minor filing to remove out-of-round portions but otherwise it fit into the PM banjo just fine.

If you're going to buy a new PM you might consider the 3520b over the 3520a. The improvements are not amazing but they made a bunch of them and they provide some good value-add.
 

Andy Hoyt

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One inch! Perfect! One less thing to do.

Just sold my OW 1018, so I'm kind spoiled by the quality. Got it narrowed to the PM 3520 (A or B) or the OW 1640. Big price delta I know, but shop limitations drive this from an outboard accessibility perspective. Gonna go kick some tires soon.
 
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Belated

Many thanks for the informative post, Jeff.

Has anyone actually ordered (or even own) one of these yet? I am very close to pulling the trigger on either the A or B- and for what I've seen the A's going for, the extra money for the new features seem worth it, to me.

I am surprised we aren't seeing more price cuts on the A, however- the lowest price I have found is $2300; not exactly what I would call close-out pricing.

JB
 
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Which powermatic

Jeff, you did a very nice job of reviewing the 3520b lathe. My decision is this. I can buy a new 3520a for $2000 or a new 3520b for $2700. Is the 3520b worth the extra money.
Thank

Joe
 

wab

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Finger on the trigger the aim is off

I'm just like Joe, I was all set to pull the trigger on the 3520A and now your wonderful review with great photo's. I spoke with the dealer and the prices are the same as Joe indicated if do a little rounding. And they indicated that they had both in the warehouse ready to go, but that they where discounting the A modle down to 2100.00. They felt that the difference didn't realy warrent buying the B model for the 600 dollar differnce. I wonder if that was just a way to clear the back supply. I guess the reason that I'm so torn is that everyone seems to love their A models. I'm moving up from a Delta Midi so you can imagine what a change I'm in for, going form pens and tea cups to realy big things.

Thanks for the wonderful review even if it has caused my maalox consumption to double.

WAB
 
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(Below it a reply to an email Bill sent me- lest I be taken for an expert, I thought I'd throw it up here, as well, for others to debate some of my points and expose me for the fraud I am ;) )

Consensus is hard to find when talking about lathes, but two truisms seem to abound on this and other boards. First, is that the Powermatic is the best bang for the buck under $3000, and second is that the Jet mini-lathe is a solid machine and probably hands-down the best midi on the market.

With regards to the Jet, Rockler has a nice sale going on (I believe there is a $25 rmail-in rebate from Jet, and a $25 gift card from Rockler at time of purchase)- which you might be able to get online if you don't have one of their retail outlets nearby. This is the non-VS model, but as you are going to have EVS on the PM (assuming you break down and buy it), I don't know if it's really necessary. Most people who use minis don't change the speed all that much, anyway. Which brings me to a second point- do you need the second lathe? Everything you can do on a mini you can do on a full size lathe- with less vibration, hardier tool rest, etc. While the Jet mini is a nice machine, it's no powermatic.

In my mind, the only reason to have a mini (if you can afford the money and room a full-size lathe requires) is if you have another family member who wants to turn small projects (allowing you to both work at the same time), or if you want the smaller lathe for traveling to demos, clubs, etc. Having said this, I'm thinking about jumping on the Rockler deal for the Jet mini myself, mainly for my wife and son who are both interested in turning, but would be a little initimidated by the mustard monster, and- besides- if I have some free time in the shop, I don't want to have to wait in line if you know what I mean.

Back to the first question- is the B worth an extra $600? Well, I would think that depends on you. This is how I went about it. First, look at the extra features (the main ones, anyway).

1. RPM readout on front. Cool, but not really necessary. You can tell when something is spinning too fast, you don't need some LED to tell you that.
2. Indexing- I like this, and feel it is a needed feature. However, if/when you decide you need it, you can always add the indexing kit to upgrade the "A" for about $150-$200. So, at best, this drops the difference in price a bit.
3. Chamfered corner of headstock- will actually make some things a bit easier, but people have been turning beautiful stuff on the ""A" models for years, so again, not a deal maker.
4. Little door thingie on tailstock- Again, cute but you could do this yourself, and besides, who expects their "frequently used turning accessories" to stay free of sawdust? :rolleyes:
5. Spindle duplicator brackets- Very cool, I actually like this design a lot- but then, I'll probably turn duplicate spindles once or twice over the next few years...
6. Head/Tailstock locking mechanism (for lack of a better term)- this new design will be able to eke out a bit more usable spindle capacity, which could come in handy. According to Jeff Jilg's review of the "B" from the symposium, however, this is also easily retrofitted to the old unit.
7. Tool/accessory holder- nice, but I've found other places to put these things in the past. This design is better, no doubt, but again, not necessary.
8. Ability to mount bed extension outboard (and low) for outboard (and larger) bowl work. Very nice, but if you are so inclined, you could always tap these hole locations into the "a" model (not something I would be likely to do myself, but that's just me).
9. New tool rest design- the offset post is great, will make a big difference on those occasions where the banjo gets in the way of the work. I particularly like the T-slot in the banjo to attach accessories. The new
bevel on the tool rest will be an improvement, perhaps- but I'll probably end up replacing the thing with an aftermarket option anyway. This one is a winner in my book, but the new banjo will likely be available soon enough for the existing "a" model holders to upgrade.

I probably missed a few, but I think you can get the point. None of these upgrades are earth-shattering, "I can't live without it" kind of features. What you need to ask yourself is three questions. First, how many of these options would I upgrade myself- and how would that affect the cost differential? Second, do the conglomeration of these minor upgrades make that difference in cost worthwhile? And finally, and most importantly, will I be kicking myself later for not getting the shiniest, newest, "upgraded" lathe? For me, that last one was the kicker. The difference between $2300 (what the "a's" were going for when I ordered my new one) and $2700- was enough to make the added features (and the fact that I might be sulking later when I was missing one of those features) worth the added expense. Another $400 when spending well over $2K just didn't seem worth arguing about. So I went for the "new hotness," so to speak. Speaks to my shallow, materialistic nature, I suppose. :p

For you, another $200 and a more practical outlook might push you the other way. I'll say this: for me, it was the B, but if I could have found an A for less than $2K, I would have jumped on it. I didn't, and have no regrets. Whichever way you go, try to make sure you don't have any, either. It's too much money to spend on a hobby (at least it is for me) to have any second thoughts.

Hope this helps!

Jeff
 
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40" Swing when using 18" extension on 3520B

I just learned from Joe Osolnik that when the (optional) 18" bed extension is mounted inboard, below the existing ways, using the factory tapped holes on the 3520B, and the headstock is moved all the way down, the total swing over the extension's ways is 40".

:eek:

:cool2:

I hadn't been able to find this anywhere, including the PDF manual from WMH (thanks Joe!).

There are two ways to buy the 18" extension, bare, or with a tool rest extension/riser, that allows the stock tool rest base to be used on the extension and accomodate the 40" swing.

And fwiw, Osolnik Machinery's website says the 3520A version is now sold out, and replaced by the 3520B.

Stuart
(Keeping his finger away from the trigger. So far...)
 
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That is true. Sorry it wasn't obvious in my initial review.

The only drawback with the configuration is it lacks tailstock support. For doing large unbalanced roughouts, they need to be fastened very securely to a faceplate. For blanks which are balanced relatively well, there is less danger. In either case a faceplate with screws should be used.

While at the 2005 symposium, the PM product mgr told me that it would be possible to drill holes on the 3520a and use the extension mounted lower. Some metalwork is needed. The whole configuration is much easier on the 3520b.
 
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Clinch pin for spindle lock

Jake Debski said:
GBJ said:
I tend to agree with your assessment of the spring loaded spindle-lock button. Though from the look of the winged guard protecting it, all I would do is drill a hole through both wings at a level that a #10 bolt could just be passed over the depressed spindle-lock button, holding it in the engaged position. I figure that if someone starts the lathe with the spindle locked, they will notice it is not turning soon enough. :)

GBJ,

I did what you suggested on my "A" model last year. I included one additonal feature. Instead of a bolt, a 3/16" piece of aluminum rod was used and bent in such a configuration that it covers the on/off switch when the spindle is locked. Thus reminding the operator to remove the lock before turning on the machine. :D

I drilled the holes in the wings and used a 3/16" clinch pin with spring-loaded ball. I also put a rare earth magnet on front of headstock and the pin is stored there.
Dr. Mike Perpall
 
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Cinch pin in spindle lock

I also drilled the holes in the spindle lock wings and slid a cinch pin with ball lock in the hole. A rare-earth magnet on the front of the headstock stores the pin.
Dr. Mike Perpall
 
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