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Any suggestions for a final finish?

Norm Marentette

Norm Marentette

Joined
Jun 2, 2021
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Location
Kingsville, ON
I am new to turning ( 1 year) a just finished hollowing out this urn which is roughly 9 x 9.5". The wood is Spalted Hackberry from a tree in my neighbourhood that was cut down for a residential development. I any not sure what finish to apply. I currently have it in a paper bag hoping it will dry slowly and not crack. I would like to try bleaching it and am looking for a white type of satin finish of some description. After having researched the bleaching process, I am not sure if it is worth the safety hazards invoIved. In the past I have used Danish Oil on some projects and wipe on poly (satin finish) for others. I would appreciate any suggestions for a finish for this particular project. Thanks.
 

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It all depends on the look you want. A good friend used to put wipe on poly on almost all his pieces, and when he turned something green, he would apply it right away to help slow the drying in our very arid climate. Myself, I tend to use oil if it's going to be useful and handled, and wipe on poly if it's going to be decorative and not handled much, or if I want a shiny finish for some reason.

You have some striking color contrasts on this piece. Are you sure you want to bleach them out?
 
Not sure about the bleaching, just afraid it will turn yellowish on the lighter part of the project if I use oil or poly. I also like the oil finish for most of my project, everyone thinks It looks richer in color and more natural. Thanks for the advice Dean.
 
Norm Marentette said:
After having researched the bleaching process, I am not sure if it is worth the safety hazards invoIve
Click to expand...
I use the 2 part wood bleach. I mix it in a large large shot glass with 4 Oz marked off and more volume at the top.
I put in 2 ox of each and paint on from the glass with a 1” foam brush.
I wear nitrile gloves and splash protection goggles. I Work outside with a small fan to blow any fumes away
I’ve never thought of it as more hazardous or risky than working with epoxy or lacquer.


Norm Marentette said:
just afraid it will turn yellowish on the lighter part of the project if I use oil or poly. I also like the oil finish for most of my project,
Click to expand...
.

When I bleach I avoid the finishes that turn whitish wood amber or yellowish whether it is bleached or not.

Lacquer or most Water based finishes keep the white nicely.
 
Theres too much color in that piece to bleach. I dont find the diy 2 part bleach any more hazardous than solvent based lacquer.

NC lacquer will yellow with time. Sherwin Williams CAB acrylic (solvent) is water clear and stays that way. But….be aware that wetting the wood will enhance the yellow of the wood - wet it down with ms or other solvent and thats pretty much what lacquer will look like.
 
For decorative objects it's really hard to beat shellac as a finish. Coats dry in 10-15 minutes, sands well, it can build quickly, it's easy to add color should you desire, it pops the grain, and is non-toxic and easy to repair. Best of all it's quite easy to buff to pretty much any desired sheen, from flat matte to high gloss without waiting for weeks for it to harden. It will add an amber tone, though the super blonde or platinum grades add minimal yellow.

I'm quite liking Target Coatings EM-6000 acrylic lacquer for a water base clear finish. You can add crosslinker to make it as tough as needed, it minimally alters the color of the wood, and can be rubbed out after a week or so. Though usually applied by spraying a good brush will work fine for small objects. It's the first water-based finish I've really been happy with the looks of.

For salad bowls intended to be used I use Mahoney's walnut oil.
 
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