• It's time to cast your vote in the April 2025 Turning Challenge. (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Steve Bonny for "A Book Holds What Time Lets Go" being selected as Turning of the Week for 28 April, 2025 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Art Resin

Does anyone use this as a finish on turned wood? Any other two part epoxy you use? West System 105 and 205?

https://www.artresin.com/

I would use the 207 hardener if you need a clear finish. The 205 hardener you mentioned is for fast curing and it has a slightly yellowish color. Another reason to not use 205 is that its fast cure time doesn't allow sufficient time for bubbles to escape.

If you want a crystal clear and hard finish, I would recommend clear InLace resin (it actually is the same product as Reichhold Polylite 32153-00 orthophthalic casting resin). It's main use is for making onyx and granite castings such as countertops. I have used InLace on numerous turnings for many years with great success. It isn't designed to be a finish, but I suppose that it would work for that if the wood is dry and stable.
 
Interesting, but........

View: https://youtu.be/tz5yTgW8gpk?list=PL56BR0x4HHEFdpw55j8JqNKWH4o9qe17l


......it looks like it wouldn't work very well with turnings, specifically because it appears like it needs to be cured on a flat surface facing up.

I'm having a difficult time focusing my memory this morning, but is it Moulthrup who used a slow spin on curing a finish on bowls.....? That may be the only way to make something like the "Art Resin" work.

-----odie-----
 
odie, thanks for the video. I would like to have seen how he mounts the turnings to the slow motor for curing the epoxy. Anything on the forum about this?
 
One of my colleagues uses System Three epoxy to finish the insides of his goblets & mugs; I believe he uses the silvertip and the clear coat versions (a couple of hours to tack-free; 24-72 hours to full cure).

After hand application, he puts it on a spare lathe at slow speed and walks away.

Generally, the foot is still on the goblet, not completely parted off (he has extra chucks).

He's been very happy with the System Three stuff, and has used adult beverages (small batch bourbons) with no strange aftertastes or visible deterioration of the finish.
 
The finish is failing on some Moulthrop pieces but it's not the epoxies fault. It's the wood preservative they use to stabilize the green wood. Boat builders use West System epoxy. My friend Ed Lewis in Chattanooga is an expert at using this on bowls. He uses a 10 rpm motor t spin the pieces while they are drying. I find other finishes easier to apply and I don't usually need totally waterproof. Right now I'm using mostly Miniwax Wipe on poly followed by the Beale buffing system. however I'm not looking for that super gloss finish and definitely don't want the paint on clear plastic looking kind of finish.
 
Does anyone use this as a finish on turned wood? Any other two part epoxy you use? West System 105 and 205?

https://www.artresin.com/
I'm almost out of my 5 minutes epoxy that I use for small bowl repairs. They are now carrying art resin at our local Fiberglass Hawaii store. Just saw a YouTube video of a turner turning a bowl made of cut up small branches, placed in a mold and then poured art resin. Looks like he was getting shavings... You can't get shavings with all resins... I will try this art resin... They also sell system three there. Never used it, so I don't know which one would be good for bowl repairs, like filling a bark intrusion etc. Has anybody used any of these 2 products? Thanks in advance for your help. Aloha
 
Interesting, but........

View: https://youtu.be/tz5yTgW8gpk?list=PL56BR0x4HHEFdpw55j8JqNKWH4o9qe17l


......it looks like it wouldn't work very well with turnings, specifically because it appears like it needs to be cured on a flat surface facing up.

I'm having a difficult time focusing my memory this morning, but is it Moulthrup who used a slow spin on curing a finish on bowls.....? That may be the only way to make something like the "Art Resin" work.

-----odie-----
Odie, I wonder what was on this video...
 
I have used System 3 Mirror coat for turnings. It's hard to control because it becomes extremely thin as it heats up to cure. That's good and bad. It's good because it penetrates really deep into cracks. Bad because it runs everywhere unless you use a good enough dam. I have used several of the casting resins sold at Hobby Lobby and they work well.
 
I have used System 3 Mirror coat for turnings. It's hard to control because it becomes extremely thin as it heats up to cure. That's good and bad. It's good because it penetrates really deep into cracks. Bad because it runs everywhere unless you use a good enough dam. I have used several of the casting resins sold at Hobby Lobby and they work well.
I usually use Marine resin. I believe it's a polyester resin. Problem is, really hard and brittle. I get best results with a NRS. It's like cutting ivory. They have several system 3, I will have to check them out, and I will try art resin. I will report later.
 
Back
Top