Has anyone built their own backrest? I'm pretty good with metalworking (built my steady rest) and would like to avoid the $500 buying one. What I need are the dimensions of the various parts.
-
We just finished moving the forums to a new hosting server. It looks like everything is functioning correctly but if you find a problem please report it in the Forum Technical Support Forum (click here) or email us at forum_moderator AT aawforum.org. Thanks! -
Beware of Counterfeit Woodturning Tools (click here for details) -
Johnathan Silwones is starting a new AAW chapter, Southern Alleghenies Woodturners, in Johnstown, PA. (click here for details) -
Congratulations to Dave Roberts for "2 Hats" being selected as Turning of the Week for April 22, 2024 (click here for details) -
Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.
Backrest
- Thread starter Donn Fishburn
- Start date
I've never heard any lathe parts called a backrest.
odie
TOTW Team
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2006
- Messages
- 7,117
- Likes
- 9,857
Maybe I'm just an idiot.....but, what on earth are you talking about?
I've never heard of a backrest for a lathe......or, maybe you're needing a backrest for your tractor seat?????
I've never heard of a backrest for a lathe......or, maybe you're needing a backrest for your tractor seat?????
Backrest.
I did a quick Google search and found 1 reference on vintage machinery for a back rest. Looks like some sort of spindle steady.
odie
TOTW Team
- Joined
- Dec 22, 2006
- Messages
- 7,117
- Likes
- 9,857
Ok....something for your hollow form turning apparatus......this is the place for answers......but not my expertise.
Ah, so a captured hollowing system. Some I think call it a Jamieson hollowing system.
That pic is the Jamieson one. They start at $500.
His backrest is $120, not $500. If you built your own, you could separate the bars that do the capturing with threaded rods and nuts to make the gap adjustable.
For the first hollowing system I had, I welded up the D handle and made the backrest from a bracket I got from harbor freight. I bought one of those outfeed stands that you put behind your planer so the wood rolls on it. I made a top frame to capture the D handle. It's basically identical to the Jamison style system. They work really well. I bought the Jumbo version made by Brian McEnvoy years ago. Found it cheap from a turner who was selling his stuff. The backrest is free standing on the floor with adjustable height and the roller is probably 32" wide. The D bar is six foot long and probably weighs 50lbs. I just hollowed something on the weekend that was 18" deep.
Those capture systems work really well.
If you are not handy at welding etc take a closer work at the Jamison systems. He makes some great products.
Those capture systems work really well.
If you are not handy at welding etc take a closer work at the Jamison systems. He makes some great products.
Thanks. I'm probably better at welding than at turning.
Attachments
I'd love to see a photo of your system.
Hi Don,
That is not a back rest, that is the entire system. The back rest just holds up and positions the handle in place so you can hollow easier and safer. The back rest does not cost $500.00. The back rest is lathe specific so needs to be constructed correctly to make your system work correctly and safely. I suggest you see the installation instructions for my system on my web site and use that information to make your own. Call if you need help.
I built one from wood many years ago for my Jamieson bar. 3/4" oak boards, or baltic birch plywood, for the support/capture section would work great, I don't think the D-handle area is under great stress. I built it for my former 24" Vicmarc (I used plywood due to the height). I'd offer a pic, but I really never did much hollowing (sorry, Lyle) so I decommisioned it a few years ago. Here is a quick drawing showing something similar to what I built. You'll get the idea. (What?! I ain't no draftman!)
Edit- the base board that sits on the lathe bed, i'd go thick on that, not a 3/4" board. I'd go at least 6/4 or 8/4 thuckness to provide beam strength as it overhangs the lathe bed. Then I'd give it a good dado, maybe 3/4" deep, then glue and screw the upright support board into it.
Edit- the base board that sits on the lathe bed, i'd go thick on that, not a 3/4" board. I'd go at least 6/4 or 8/4 thuckness to provide beam strength as it overhangs the lathe bed. Then I'd give it a good dado, maybe 3/4" deep, then glue and screw the upright support board into it.
Last edited:
I built one several years ago to the info that Lyle has on his website (he referenced it above). Works great and is a pretty simple build if you’ve got some welding skills. I hadn’t welded in over 40 years when I made mine - borrowed a mig welder, taught myself to use it well enough to make some secure - but really ugly - welds. I built the whole system to Lyle’s specs and added a steady rest before giving the welding rig back to my friend. Still using it all about 10 years later…
I dont have a welder or skill to use it, so I bought Lyle’s system. For the backrest, instead of welding the top/bottom d-bar supports, use nuts, bolts, washers, and a spring over the threads in between the support members. You can then adjust the gap vs trying to get it perfect by jigging it up to weld - for production welding is better, but not for a one off piece.