bandaid for burls

[Kevin Jenness]

This leaky vessel was stabilized during hollowing by attaching a wooden bridge across one of the voids with hot melt glue. The bridge was cut on the bandsaw and scribed closer (not very) with a spindle sander. Removed after sanding with help from a heat gun. I learned this trick from Tom Dunne of Middlebury, VT.

 

[hockenbery]

Nice method!
i‘ve used tape with stiff wire to keep the tape on the outside.
also used bandsaw rings taped to the form.

thanks For the photos.

 

[Kevin Jenness]

I will try your bandsaw ring method another time. Thanks for the suggestion. It might help with overall rigidity- a voidoid piece like this tends to vibrate a lot. I have used this bridging technique a couple of times when a loose section started flapping.

 

[Ricc Havens]

Very Cool!!

 

[Jim Reynolds]

A very clever technique, now to try and remember it if a similar problem presents itself.

Would you mind explaining your hollowing technique? It looks like there is I steel rod/tube were I would I would insert the hollowing tools.

 

[Mark Jundanian]

Kevin, I hate to admit this, but I am not following. I see how the bridge is stabilizing the walls, but I don't see how you are then turning the outside or the inside surfaces as mounted?

 

[Kevin Jenness]

The photo was taken after the hollowing process while mounted on a Kelton mandrel for removing the tenon. I turned the outside between centers using an Elio drive center and the inside using a Talon chuck, Clark hollowing bar and several different cutters. The piece is about 6.5" high, 11" diameter and averages 1/8" thick, with a 1 1/4" center hole. I meant to turn it thicker, but the chatter overcame my intent. I cease to be amazed how little substance can remain in shapes like this and still hold together. I don't usually name pieces, but this one might be called "fear of flying" or maybe "rm w/vu".