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Basket Weave adding Color

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Mar 19, 2016
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I have only done two basket weave illusion pieces and working on my third. I didn’t add any color to the first one and left it natural. The second I did add some black using the Pitt pens. I have all 4 nibs. What my question would it be practical to use a small pointed artist brush using India ink instead of the Pitt pens. I remember even with the smallest nib it was difficult to fully color the bead and was thinking I could do better with a brush. What is your opinion? What about dye instead of India ink?
 
That would be determined by your physical dexterity and finesse in controlling the brush. You might need to trim the hairs on the brush you use and experiment with the liquid you use for pigmenting the beads. Takes a steady hand and total mental focus discipline to do this type of detail work without messing it up. Very few people have those skill sets.

Maybe a felt tip pen hooked up to an IV drip bottle to provide a constant flow of pigment to the felt tip when it is applied to the wood beads.
 
The usual answer on will it work, is to try it on a sample piece. Lay out the beads and lines on something and try. I think a brush would have a tendency to cause runs if you are not careful. I also think you will need to fine nib of a Pitt to get into the corners and tight spots. A lot will also depend on your pattern. If the pattern has fairly large areas of the same color, it may work but I would not try it when you have individual areas to color. I have done about 10 illusions so far and still learning. Allyn
 
William, I wish Harvey Meyer frequented this forum, he could give you the ultimate answer. But I'll give you my 2 cents from my own experience. I've tried exactly what you're asking about and yes it works, sort of. You need a small brush that has a similar shape to the brush nib tip on the Faber Castelle PITT markers. And it needs to be somewhat short and stiff bristled. Otherwise it will bend and be hard to control. But it still requires a very steady hand and I think it is more time consuming than the markers. You'll be constantly dipping. A little too much ink and it will either drip on something you don't want dripped on or it will run into a part of the wood that you don't want colored. In my opinion, the FC pens with a sharp point on the nib are better. The other 3 nibs are kind of useless on the baskets. I don't know if you're aware, but you can trim the brush nib with some fine scissors to sharpen it. And you can pull the nib out of the pen and reverse it, there's a sharp tip on the other end. In all of this, I'm referring to the Faber Castelle Pitt pens. They are india ink, most of the other varieties are alcohol based inks. The alcohol based inks and dyes bleed very easily and are difficult to control.
Also, if you burn the groove between the beads it creates a sort of shadow line between the beads. Not as distinct as a wire burns a line but more like shading it. That makes it less necessary to get the ink into the bottom of the groove (which usually results it getting ink on the adjacent bead). I burn the groove with a small piece of formica (free samples from lowes or home depot). Sand off the top layer of the formica on a belt sander leaving just the thin resinous backing, hold that in the groove with the lathe running. It doesn't take much to burn but it does seem to help with the coloring, at least for me.
Also, I only burn the outline of the areas to be colored first. Then I color those areas and burn the rest of the lines after they're colored. The burn lines tend to wear at the tip of the markers making it hard to keep them sharp so coloring first and then burning makes the marker tip last longer. Hope all that makes sense and helps.
 
Thanks for the input. It seems best if I stay with the FC Pitt markers. I do have the piece beaded, but still working on other aspects. Not exactly what I envisioned for the piece, but at least practice so I will finish it. I’ll see how it ends up.

Curtis, I had been debating on burning the beads with formica. I did burn the first two pieces I did using wire (0.018”) and formica, but there are those who don’t burn them. However I was just sanding a point on the formica, not sanding the formica side only. Thanks for that info. I’m going to put some beads on a practice piece to see how that works. I should have done some practice beading first as there are a few I would like to have back.
 
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sounds like u need to combine burning &
calligraphy pens....Zig has assorted colors but need to stay with dominant colors imo
 
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