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bit of dilima

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bit of dilima

turned some green maple yesterday :eek:

it went though some distortions yesterday afternoon and last night(wish i took pictures), it seems to have stablized this morning, but i probably will not work on it til monday

what to do???

v cuts??
deer hide collar???
rawhide lacing??
i have some liquid frisket i could use around crackes to do something?

other, your suggestion, thank in advance :D
 

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bit of dilima

turned some green maple yesterday :eek:

it went though some distortions yesterday afternoon and last night(wish i took pictures), it seems to have stablized this morning, but i probably will not work on it til monday

what to do???

v cuts??
deer hide collar???
rawhide lacing??
i have some liquid frisket i could use around crackes to do something?

other, your suggestion, thank in advance :D

I hate to say it but if those are cracks on the top - it's firewood :(
 
This soon after turning, the wood is still not dry, or finished moving. You should try to minimize the cracking that is occuring near the opening. At this point, I would place the piece in a paper bag for a couple of weeks. This will allow a more uniform drying to occur and help minimize the cracking.

Do not put glue in the crack at this time. When the wood is fully dry, the crack will in all likelyhood close to a very small line, and glueing while open will prevent the closing from occurring. Once dry, options on treating the design opportunity will be available.

In general, a controlled drying is needed for any green wood object that is more that 1/4" to 3/8" thick. There are many methods for controlling the drying process, but the paper bag method works well for me.



Later,
Dale M
 
Wrap it tightly round and round with a tourniquet or a strap clamp and it might cure in a semi-closed configuration. If it's small enough, go with some plastic wrap as a rust barrier and a big hose clamp. Wood should still be plastic enough to take some stress.

Looks like s check you didn't notice from hollowing or sanding heat that opened up.
 
Drill a hole at the end of the check. The hole should be on the order of 1/2".

Put a grommet in the hole. Staple over the crack with big coper staples spaced about 1/2' apart.

Put a bradded lather rope in the grommets.
 
This soon after turning, the wood is still not dry, or finished moving. You should try to minimize the cracking that is occuring near the opening. At this point, I would place the piece in a paper bag for a couple of weeks. This will allow a more uniform drying to occur and help minimize the cracking.

Do not put glue in the crack at this time. When the wood is fully dry, the crack will in all likelyhood close to a very small line, and glueing while open will prevent the closing from occurring. Once dry, options on treating the design opportunity will be available.

In general, a controlled drying is needed for any green wood object that is more that 1/4" to 3/8" thick. There are many methods for controlling the drying process, but the paper bag method works well for me.



Later,
Dale M

I'm with Dale here with one change. I use newspaper. Usually two full sheets taped closed.
I'm looking for an old upright freezer box to make a kiln. A few fellow club member have done this and it works GREAT.
Cut a hole in the bottom of the door and another in the top, make covers for said holes, install 60-75 watt light bulb(real not curly) and you have a cheap kiln.:cool2:
 
i have an old frezzer but its a bit of a trip, you can also use dishwasher
 
Let it dry in the paper bag. The carve several vine shapes out of contrasting wood. These will come out of the inside of the vessel and hang over the lip running down the vessel. 2 of them will just happen to cover the cracks. The other 2 can run however you want.
 
amazing

Dale you are completely correct, it is amazing that after putting the turning in a paper bag a couple days the two cracks closed up, i can still see a faint line which finish will probably highlight

still have not deceided how to highlight or hide line
 

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