Bottle Stoppers

[Jerry Bridges]

I am new to turning bottle stoppers. My question is, what species of wood is best at holding threads?

 

[hockenbery]

A little glue and threads will hold in any but the softest woods.

Threads hold better in face grain this they do in endgrain.

If the wood dents easily with a blunt flat bladed screwdriver it isn’t suitable.

A drop of tight bond will keep the hold near to permanent regardless of grain direction or species.

If using a threaded mandrel for turning you can use the tailstock until the very last
This will let you hold any wood that doesn’t dent.

 

[Forrest Forschmiedt]

Simple answer: The harder, the better.

As long as it holds up on the mandrel for turning, you're good. A bit of epoxy, wood glue or CA glue takes care of final assembly.
Some of the more open grain woods like oak can be finicky. They are good if you're careful not to over-tighten but the coarse grain makes fine cuts fragile.

I made a pile of stoppers for this holiday season. Woods I used and had no problems with: Cherry, Mahogany, Hickory, Walnut.
I tried to drill and tap threads in some poplar for a handle but it was too soft. That's ok as it's not that pretty anyway.
Darker woods and/or colorful grain sold. Shiny sold. Unless it had good streaks of color/spalting/ambrosia, maple didn't sell. Matte finish didn't sell.

I had some spalted maple that was too soft for threads to hold but other pieces in the same batch were fine.

Note that a proper tap will work better than trying to cut the threads onto the mandrel. The mandrel I have is supposed to be able to cut threads as it has a slot cut into the end of it. Reality for me was it just tore up the hole in pieces I tried.

 

[Jerry Bridges]

A little glue and threads will hold in any but the softest woods.
Threads hold better in face grain this the do in endgrain.

A drop of tight bond will keep the hold near to permanent.

If the wood dents easily with a blunt flat bladed screwdriver it isn’t suitable.

Thanks for the information. I am using maple, so I will use your suggestion and add the glue.

 

[Jerry Bridges]

Simple answer: The harder, the better.

As long as it holds up on the mandrel for turning, you're good. A bit of epoxy, wood glue or CA glue takes care of final assembly.
Some of the more open grain woods like oak can be finicky. They are good if you're careful not to over-tighten but the coarse grain makes fine cuts fragile.

I made a pile of stoppers for this holiday season. Woods I used and had no problems with: Cherry, Mahogany, Hickory, Walnut.
I tried to drill and tap threads in some poplar for a handle but it was too soft. That's ok as it's not that pretty anyway.
Darker woods and/or colorful grain sold. Shiny sold. Unless it had good streaks of color/spalting/ambrosia, maple didn't sell. Matte finish didn't sell.

I had some spalted maple that was too soft for threads to hold but other pieces in the same batch were fine.

Note that a proper tap will work better than trying to cut the threads onto the mandrel. The mandrel I have is supposed to be able to cut threads as it has a slot cut into the end of it. Reality for me was it just tore up the hole in pieces I tried.

Thanks, I am using Ruth Nile's spindle mounted mandrel and her drill and tap.

 

[hockenbery]

Using the tailstock until the very end will hold any wood that slips on the threaded mandrel.

 

[Jerry Bridges]

I use the tailstock to the very last cut. I understand this will support the threads on the mandrel. Wow, what great information from all of you who answered my question.

Using the tailstock until the very end will hold any wood that slips on the threaded mandrelI

 

[Ed Davidson]

A little glue and threads will hold in any but the softest woods.

Not a lot, but some wine drinkers will want to un-screw the wood part and put the metal stopper part in the dishwasher for cleaning...so bonding the two pieces together might hurt sales.

 

[Jerry Bridges]

Actually, I am working on a ring pull can opener for my daughter who has RA. I intend for the opener to be permanent, so glue is a good option.

 

[Roger Chandler]

What size drill bit comes with the Ruth Niles mandrel kit?

 

[Jerry Bridges]

Two came with the kit. 5/16 for wood and 11/32 for acrylic. They are stub bits to reduce chatter.

 

[Dean Center]

Just about any implement can be made easier to use with a bigger diameter handle. Your ability to turn such handles can do a lot to help you daughter. Good luck to you both.

 

[William J Smith]

Jerry:
I've made bottle stoppers for about 10 years. Here are some lessons I've learned.
1. Full-size stoppers sell better than the short and skinny ones.
2. Use stainless steel stoppers. The chrome plated ones will eventually pit if left in a wine bottle too long.
3. Woods I avoid: evergreen, palm, and punky wood. Most tight grained woods work well -- the same woods I use for threaded boxes.
4. I've turned some maple burl for stoppers but had to be very careful. CA glue after drilling the hole and CA glue on the threads after tapping.
Experience has shown it's best to be sure the glue is dry before trying to tap the blank and again before putting it on the mandrel!!!
5. I use 2" x 2" x 2" blanks. I can hold them in my 4-jaw chuck to start with.
6. I drill the hole in the blank at least 1/4" deeper than the length of the stopper screw. Since most taps are tapered, the deeper hole allows me
to tap deep enough to make sure the mandrel and the stopper can be screwed all the way in before meeting the end of the threads.
7. When you tap the hole, do not bottom out the tap. That's an easy way to tear out the threads.
8. I drill and tap my blanks in three steps with the blank held in a 4-jaw chuck:
a. True the end of the blank and create a slight concave surface so, in the end, the turned piece will fit flush against the stopper.
b. Use a drill chuck held in the tail stock to drill the hole in the blank (about 500 RPM).
c. Replace the drill bit with the tap, and tap the hole by rotating the blank by hand (still in the 4-jaw chuck) while firmly pushing the tailstock, drill
chuck, and tap forward. This will ensure that the tap stays lined up and parallel with the drilled hole in the blank.

 

[Bill Blasic]

I use Ruth Niles equipment and never glue the wood to the stopper. I use the drill she sells and the mandrel cuts the threads and they always screw on very tight.

 

[Jerry Bridges]

TKhanks for all the advice. This process is totally new to me. I am practicing on some cutoffs before attempting a complete turned handle. I bottomed the tap on the first try, and you are right. The threads were gone. Using the chuck for the tap is a great idea.

Jerry:
I've made bottle stoppers for about 10 years. Here are some lessons I've learned.
1. Full-size stoppers sell better than the short and skinny ones.
2. Use stainless steel stoppers. The chrome plated ones will eventually pit if left in a wine bottle too long.
3. Woods I avoid: evergreen, palm, and punky wood. Most tight grained woods work well -- the same woods I use for threaded boxes.
4. I've turned some maple burl for stoppers but had to be very careful. CA glue after drilling the hole and CA glue on the threads after tapping.
Experience has shown it's best to be sure the glue is dry before trying to tap the blank and again before putting it on the mandrel!!!
5. I use 2" x 2" x 2" blanks. I can hold them in my 4-jaw chuck to start with.
6. I drill the hole in the blank at least 1/4" deeper than the length of the stopper screw. Since most taps are tapered, the deeper hole allows me
to tap deep enough to make sure the mandrel and the stopper can be screwed all the way in before meeting the end of the threads.
7. When you tap the hole, do not bottom out the tap. That's an easy way to tear out the threads.
8. I drill and tap my blanks in three steps with the blank held in a 4-jaw chuck:
a. True the end of the blank and create a slight concave surface so, in the end, the turned piece will fit flush against the stopper.
b. Use a drill chuck held in the tail stock to drill the hole in the blank (about 500 RPM).
c. Replace the drill bit with the tap, and tap the hole by rotating the blank by hand (still in the 4-jaw chuck) while firmly pushing the tailstock, drill
chuck, and tap forward. This will ensure that the tap stays lined up and parallel with the drilled hole in the blank.

 

[Dave Hulett]

Jerry, I gave up on cutting threads into the wood as too few woods work.. just read any forum about thread chasing and they'll name a handfull that are good, the majority don't. I After cutting threads on about 100 stoppers over a couple of years I finally broke down and ordered threaded inserts from Ruth Niles. They work great and on ANY kind of wood.

 

[Jerry Bridges]

Thanks, I am glad the inserts are available. I like that I can broaden my wood selection for the stoppers.

 

[Bill Blasic]

I should have stated that any wood I've used works fine be it American hardwoods or exotics. They all screw on very tightly and sometimes I have to wrap the SS stopper with rubber then grab it with a set of pliers to tighten all the way. Although I've never had a problem with one this way I can always take it off for repair or replacement.

 

[Jerry Bridges]

Thanks for your suggestion and ideasl. I have ordered some inserts from Ruth, and will use them as soon as I get them.