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Bowl Gouge Handles
- Thread starter Tom D
- Start date
Once I turn the handle and drill a correct size hole on drill press, I put the handle in a vise (wooden jaws) and "tap" the tool in with a wooden mallet. Once you have it started an inch or so, you can hold a block of wood on the tool and strike that until it seats. Also, once the tool is started, you can take it out of the vise, invert it, hold it firmly by the handle, and strike downwards on a piece of wood or bench. A little soap on the shank will help it slid in more easily. Not too scientific, but I've done several this way with no problem. Just don't strike the handle end - it might split.
Tom,
I turn my handles, then hold the handle verticle under my drill press with clamps and drill the appropriate size hole for the gouge. It is important that this hole runs straight into the handle. I would drill these on the lathe if I had a steady rest - must build one! I then place some sort of metal banding, either the brass rings you can buy or I have found some conduit connector nuts that work great and are available locally cheap! Then you gently drive the gouge into the handle.
I normally bed my gouges into epoxy glue as I find it overcomes my hurried construction and gives me a tight fit for less vibration. It also keeps the metal ring in place if I was a little off on the lip area for it! This is not necessary if hole is drilled right but I prefer it.
Wilford
I turn my handles, then hold the handle verticle under my drill press with clamps and drill the appropriate size hole for the gouge. It is important that this hole runs straight into the handle. I would drill these on the lathe if I had a steady rest - must build one! I then place some sort of metal banding, either the brass rings you can buy or I have found some conduit connector nuts that work great and are available locally cheap! Then you gently drive the gouge into the handle.
I normally bed my gouges into epoxy glue as I find it overcomes my hurried construction and gives me a tight fit for less vibration. It also keeps the metal ring in place if I was a little off on the lip area for it! This is not necessary if hole is drilled right but I prefer it.
Wilford
Tool handles
Hi Tom
I use epoxy. The stuff that comes in two tubes or two bottles. You mix it up pour into hole in handle. If the steel is real smoth then ruff it with file or grinder.Push it in to hole. hole should be about 1/64" over sized this will allow epoxy to squeeze out all around tool steel and make firm hold.
Good luck
Duane
Hi Tom
I use epoxy. The stuff that comes in two tubes or two bottles. You mix it up pour into hole in handle. If the steel is real smoth then ruff it with file or grinder.Push it in to hole. hole should be about 1/64" over sized this will allow epoxy to squeeze out all around tool steel and make firm hold.
Good luck
Duane
Tom,
Just in case you were not aware of it, you should orient the grain of your handle so that it “runs vertical†in relation to your gouge’s flute. For an example, take a look at any turning tool you have; the handles’ oval grain patterns are on the handles “sides.†Looking at your tool from the “top†(flute facing up), your handle’s grain will be straight, parallel lines.
By orienting your handle’s grain in this manner, it can better withstand the tension-compression forces it encounters when in use. This principle applies to other wood-handled tools like hammers and garden tools (pick, shovel, and hoe).
Allan.
Just in case you were not aware of it, you should orient the grain of your handle so that it “runs vertical†in relation to your gouge’s flute. For an example, take a look at any turning tool you have; the handles’ oval grain patterns are on the handles “sides.†Looking at your tool from the “top†(flute facing up), your handle’s grain will be straight, parallel lines.
By orienting your handle’s grain in this manner, it can better withstand the tension-compression forces it encounters when in use. This principle applies to other wood-handled tools like hammers and garden tools (pick, shovel, and hoe).
Allan.
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2004
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- Leopold Victoria Australia
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When making your handle you have your ferrule and you make it fit on one end . You want a neat fit over the end of the handle.even to the point of it being a tap fit on. You then shape it to what is comfortable in your hand size. Have a good look at the handles you have and pick out the ones you prefer and size your new handle accordingly. Depending on the tools you have bought most gouges have round tangs and your skew , scrapers parting tools and roughing gouges have square tangs. The round ones are easy to fit as you drill the appropriate size hole and the tools with the square tangs require you to drill a series of stepped holes as they are generally tapered. This is where I differ slightly from other suggestions a I place the round or square tang into the drilled hole and I hold the handle and hit the end of the handle. This in turn swadges the tang into the handle and gets a better grip. If you hit the blade into the handle it puts more force on the timber and can split the handle. Make sure you have your ferrule in place before you put the tang into the timber. By hitting the end of the handle it creates it own wedge and gives you a better fit and you do not require any fillers or glues to hold them in place. 
I do mine just like Jim C described above. However, I drill my hole on the lathe.
I put the correct size bit in a drill chuck in the headstock and take out the live center so all I have is the bare tailstock. I advance the tailstock so that the point of the drill bit is on center where I want the hole drilled, turn on the lathe and advance the tailstock ram. I have found this method to be very effective and accurate. Just hold onto the tool handle so it doesn't spin--otherwise it might mar the end of the handle.
Joe
I put the correct size bit in a drill chuck in the headstock and take out the live center so all I have is the bare tailstock. I advance the tailstock so that the point of the drill bit is on center where I want the hole drilled, turn on the lathe and advance the tailstock ram. I have found this method to be very effective and accurate. Just hold onto the tool handle so it doesn't spin--otherwise it might mar the end of the handle.
Joe