Burl Finishing Question

[Dan Mosley]

I recently bought some turning blanks of Buckeye burl and decided to pick up a couple of Large slabs of wood (Buckeye and Redwood) and a couple bases to make a couple tables out of. I have them sitting to the side until i can see if anyone locally has a drum sander big enough to run them thru for me. My question is on the finishing of them (I figure the finish of them is probably very similar to how you would do turnings) because i am not a fan of the liquid pour on resin type finishes. I was thinking of something like a laquer build up but wanted to discuss it here to see how others would or are finishing their turnings to see what my other options are.
---- One wood worker suggested the following as some tips on finishing them:

1- Do not to use oil (BLO,Danish etc) because they would darken it to much.

2- The bases and the edges of the slabs can be burned with a torch and then sandblasted to to clean up and make a really nice natural edge and effect on the wood. Then you can hand sand down the top and you shouldnt have to go past 220 because of the film finish you are going to apply. The finish suggested was to sand to 220, put sanding sealer on x 2 sanding with 320 wet/dry between each coat, then put on 3 coats of laquer and use 320 between coats, 4th and final coat of laquer and use 0000 steel wool lightly, then polish and your done.
Polish with what and how ?

Besides the above question - Anybody have a finishing idea they could suggest or post ?

 

[Steve Worcester]

Both of those are amongst the softest of burls, so they will soak up alot of whatever you put on it. If you want a more durable finish, I would suggest several coats of 50/50 lacquer to thinner and then multiple coats of lacquer and maybe even a more durable table top finish on top of that. You will know that it is saturated with finish when you get a more even sheen across the top, no more shiny and dull spots. Then a few more coats to allow for sanding and buff through. Assuming a glossy finish I would actually wet sand with about 600-800P and then up to over 1500p, then use liquid buffing compounds as they will be easier to manage on a large piece.

 

[Richard Baker]

Ditto what Steve said, with some additions. Do not wet sand until you have built a completely sealed finish with several coats of lacquer. And little if any need to sand between lacquer coats, as successive lacquer coats dissolve into the material already present, unlike the various varnishes which usually form distinct layers. I usually sand very lightly with 400 or 600 before the last one or two spray coats, or as Steve said build your full lacquer finish and then follow his wet sand and buff procedure.

 

[Dan Mosley]

What kind of liquid wax do you use ? and how are you buffing a pc that big ? ..............Thanks for the information

 

[Steve Worcester]

I use 3M Perfect-It polishes. They are the same as used for the auto body industry.
There are three compounds, a rubbing, a medium and a finish.

You may want to see if there is someone in your club who uses something similar so you can "borrow" some from them instead of having to spend the money on quarts of each.

Actually bigger pieces are easier, but you would use a drill with a 3" velcro polishing pad.