Can I glue three 2x4 together and use on my lathe?
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Can I glue three 2x 4 together and use them on my lathe?
- Thread starter Roger Clark
- Start date
As long as you do a proper job gluing up the pieces its no different from any other laminated or segmented piece. What are you planning to make?
Any particular type of wood glue? Also thank you Gary for the information.
I would use Titebond or similar wood glue. Stay away from CA in this case, its brittle and not good for this application. Epoxies would be fine too.
Wood glue works.
I use Elmers wood glue.
EDIT: Funny that I can't reply to a reply and see the reply in-line.
EDIT: Funny that I can't reply to a reply and see the reply in-line.
Great . Thanks!
If you cut them into a 1000 pieces and glue them together you will have an artistic piece worthy of hanging on the wall. 
You usually want to hit the mating surfaces with some coarse sand paper prior to gluing to create a good bond. Regular pine
can have warpage to the boards you usually want them flat, sanded and clamp the pieces for several hours to get a good bond.
You usually want to hit the mating surfaces with some coarse sand paper prior to gluing to create a good bond. Regular pine
can have warpage to the boards you usually want them flat, sanded and clamp the pieces for several hours to get a good bond.
Also be sure to wipe off any excess glue. Clamp your boards tight for a few seconds and then loosen them half a turn or so. While they're really tight wipe the extra glue off.
Protect your wood from the clamps with something like a rubber tip, piece of cloth or a piece of scrap wood.
I used to slice one 2x4 in half (the 1 1/2 " side and get two 3/4" Pieces). The I'd glue up 2 pieces and the half piece to make a 4x4. Only did it for craft type projects that were getting painted.
Well, maybe. I would run them through a planer or drum sander, which is slower. You want the gluing surfaces to match really tightly so the glue bonds really well. If you have 2 of them that are cupped, and put the cupped surfaces towards each other, you will have a gap in the middle that you probably won't be able to close up with clamps, and that will leave a weak spot. If the boards are cupped and you place the concave surface against the convex surface, then you might get away with it.
What do you want to turn? A piece of 4 by 4 might be less work/hastle...
robo hippy
What do you want to turn? A piece of 4 by 4 might be less work/hastle...
robo hippy
This is something I've been doing for a long time now. My theory on this, is the initial extra pressure will drive the glue into the interiors of the wood surfaces. This might be good for this purpose, but it's too much pressure for the bond between the two surfaces, and might force too much of the glue to exit out the sides of the bond.
Is there agreement with this theory of mine......or am I just full of it?
-----odie-----
I've read that excess clamping pressure will starve the joint of glue.This is something I've been doing for a long time now. My theory on this, is the initial extra pressure will drive the glue into the interiors of the wood surfaces. This might be good for this purpose, but it's too much pressure for the bond between the two surfaces, and might force too much of the glue to exit out the sides of the bond.
Is there agreement with this theory of mine......or am I just full of it?
-----odie-----
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A starved glue joint is normally one that doesn’t have any squeeze out. But, a joint with no squeeze out doesn’t necessarily mean that it is a starved glue joint. It just means that there is uncertainty about the integrity of the glue joint. Having squeeze out removes that uncertainty.
Franklin, maker of Titebond glues, says to use firm pressure for at least 30 minutes. The glue joint requires solid wood to wood contact to have a strong joint. While epoxy glue can be used as a gap filler for a strong joint, wood glue is not a gap filling glue. The strongest joint is when wood glue penetrates into both pieces of wood and there is NOT a glue boundary layer separating the two pieces. I think it’s important to mention that using very high clamping pressure is not a substitute for making certain that both boards are making solid contact over the enti glue joint.
Franklin, maker of Titebond glues, says to use firm pressure for at least 30 minutes. The glue joint requires solid wood to wood contact to have a strong joint. While epoxy glue can be used as a gap filler for a strong joint, wood glue is not a gap filling glue. The strongest joint is when wood glue penetrates into both pieces of wood and there is NOT a glue boundary layer separating the two pieces. I think it’s important to mention that using very high clamping pressure is not a substitute for making certain that both boards are making solid contact over the enti glue joint.
My opinion is (no testing to back it up) the glue gets into the fibers through absorption in cell walls and capillary action (especially end grain). Allowing a few minutes for the glue to wet fibers, adding more if needed, accomplishes more than excess pressure. Get wood to wood as Franklin states, and no more pressure is needed.This is something I've been doing for a long time now. My theory on this, is the initial extra pressure will drive the glue into the interiors of the wood surfaces. This might be good for this purpose, but it's too much pressure for the bond between the two surfaces, and might force too much of the glue to exit out the sides of the bond.
Is there agreement with this theory of mine......or am I just full of it?
-----odie-----
When i did segmenting, I found starved joints - the capillary action would such it right up. My solution was to make 2 “glue spreading” rounds with the segments, which gave time for the glue to absorb, add another coat, then fit together - might not be the best solution but no more failures from glue starvation.
I have never seen any study, or "official" explanation of this......you could be right. Of course, my opinion is just that.....an opinion!
This thinking started with @Charles Cadenhead's statement about giving an initial squeeze, and then letting off the clamp pressure. Is there any explanation for doing this, other than for the reasons I opined? This is exactly what I've been doing for many years, and I can't recall ever having a failed glue joint...
I don't have an answer to this question.....only my opinion.
-----odie-----
I hope the OP wasn't asking about glueing them end to end. 
As to glue joints of face grain with both surfaces flat and true moderate pressure with just a bead of squeeze out is preferred. Also I have seen several reports that say glue starvation does not exist in this type joint. So if you get squeeze out it should not result in a failed joint.
End grain is different and all bets are off. As Doug said apply glue to both surfaces allow a bit of time and apply again, but that is an area I stay out of.
End grain is different and all bets are off. As Doug said apply glue to both surfaces allow a bit of time and apply again, but that is an area I stay out of.
Why can't we have both?Is there agreement with this theory of mine......or am I just full of it?
-----odie-----
I have glued hundreds of joints ( face grain to face grain) and clamped as tight as I could with sufficient squeeze out cleaned up with a damp cloth, then let them sit overnight and never have I loosened a clamp until I removed it the next day.
I have never ever had a joint fail.
My .02 worth of experience.
I am with Greg on this. Most of the glue ups I did were panels for flat work. Norm on New Yankee Workshop would take the clamps off after about 30 minutes to an hour. I tried that once, and the joint failed. When clamping, I do get it tight, but not as tight as I possibly can. Mostly because I am on the Brute Squad...... In theory, you should be able to use maximum pressure for glue ups, but should not be able to squeeze all of the glue out for a glue starved joint. The joints need to be dead flat and straight. The 'gaps' can be hugely responsible for failure.
One thing that has always puzzled me is that when gluing up stock like for table legs, or in this case 2 by 4s, the theory is that you want the growth rings to oppose each other rather than match each other. So, outside curve growth rings would be facing each other rather than both going in the same direction. The idea is that when wood movement happens, the gap that should form would be on the inside and not show. My thinking is that if the curved rings are facing in the same direction, then both pieces will move in the same direction and there will be no gap forming on the inside. At least, that is how I understood it.
robo hippy
One thing that has always puzzled me is that when gluing up stock like for table legs, or in this case 2 by 4s, the theory is that you want the growth rings to oppose each other rather than match each other. So, outside curve growth rings would be facing each other rather than both going in the same direction. The idea is that when wood movement happens, the gap that should form would be on the inside and not show. My thinking is that if the curved rings are facing in the same direction, then both pieces will move in the same direction and there will be no gap forming on the inside. At least, that is how I understood it.
robo hippy
Dave Landers
Beta Tester
I thought it was so the two pieces would work against each other to resist movement and keep the whole thing flat.
The cabinet/ millwork shop I formerly worked in, and still hang out in, we never loosened clamps while gluing. I never heard of that idea.
Skokie Mill
I'd like to know what Roger is planning to make with three glued 2X4's. Stacked up, it'll be 3.5" X 4.5"?
I don't know who taught me that, maybe an old shop teacher or my dad? It seems like I've always done that. I THINK it's to "smash" the glue across the surface of the item (though I do evenly spread the glue), it gives you a chance to wipe off the extra glue, and then it allows the surface tension to keep the glue spread out without adding extra stress to the wood. But I could be wrong.