• It's time to cast your vote in the May 2025 Turning Challenge. (click here for details)
  • Congratulations to Maggie Shapiro for "My 2nd Basket Illusion" being selected as Turning of the Week for 26 May, 2025 (click here for details)
  • Welcome new registering member. Your username must be your real First and Last name (for example: John Doe). "Screen names" and "handles" are not allowed and your registration will be deleted if you don't use your real name. Also, do not use all caps nor all lower case.

Carter Products Strongbore Modular Boring System opinions?

Joined
Jun 27, 2022
Messages
32
Likes
20
Location
Cottonwood, CA
Looking for a simple, minimalist way to attach a forstner bit to M2 tail stock. I have a M2 chuck but it is long and has a much larger diameter than tailstock quill. Opinions and options are welcome. The product is $53.

52602686269_cfab78bbd3_o.jpg

 
I just use a drill chuck with an m2 arbor. All types/sizes available. I have a 6” extension to go deeper with a forstner bit, its about 3/8” dia, flares at the end with a hole/socket in the flared end to hold the bit shaft and 2 set screws.

The system you reference would be good for boring deep holes over ~8” (depth I can reach) with the large shaft dia. I use ship auger bits for deep holes, held by a drill chuck mounted in the TS.

I only use deep drilling when making a deep hollow form/vase. The size of the opening desired is determined by the bar size I will use for my hollowing system.

Perhaps a description of what you expect to use this boring bar for would help with more options.
 
For shallow holes, or ones where the bit is not as big as the chuck, most will use a jacobs chuck, which comes on a #2 morris taper. Not sure if the chucks on our drill presses are the same taper or not. There are a lot of them out there. Some have keys, some are keyless. Not too experienced with the keyless variations. Any turning supply place will have them.

robo hippy
 
I use the Strongbore system, especially if I'm drilling smaller than my M2 Jacobs and/or deeper than the length of the Forstner bit. I'm happy with it and think it's worth the price.
 
Good idea.
I tried the product when it was first available. The 2MT appeared to be machined on a lathe and not ground. With just 1 section added, I could forcibly insert it in the MT, a couple of wiggles and it I could pull it back out of the tailstock or headstock taper by hand. CS worked with me and sent another unit that they tried it in all 7 of their lathes. It exhibited the same characteristics. No, it is not a problem with my 3 lathes headstock and tailstock tapers.
Do all of your Forstner Bits have the same size shank? if not, that is something to consider.
 
Last edited:
The strongbore looks like it would produce more accurately straight deep bores compared to a forstner mounted in a drill bit extension. Useful for salt/peppermills maybe and other turnings that require big deep accurately centered holes. However, for simple boring of hollow forms and bowls, the bit extension is plenty adequate. I've used the bit extension to make peppermills. It works just fine as long as you go slowly with a sharp forstner. I'd only buy it if I were making a lot of peppermills.
 
A Jacobs chuck mounted in the tailstock will work for most applications. There are plenty of Morse Taper options out there in the machining world.
 
I have purchased, but have yet to try, a set of 2MT Tapered Collets. Saw it on a video and wanted them for the same need to bore deeper using just the tail stock without the added diameter of a Jacobs chuck.

Link to 7 Pc Set
1672718418751.jpeg
The set for the link, above, is pricier than I paid but my old link to set on Amazon no longer works. I paid about $40.
 
I have purchased, but have yet to try, a set of 2MT Tapered Collets. Saw it on a video and wanted them for the same need to bore deeper using just the tail stock without the added diameter of a Jacobs chuck.

Link to 7 Pc Set
View attachment 49102
The set for the link, above, is pricier than I paid but my old link to set on Amazon no longer works. I paid about $40.
To effectively use MT 2 collets you must use a draw bar which is easily made from 3/8-16 threaded rod. The collets work well on the headstock but not on the tailstock due to the fact that there is no way to use the draw bar independent of the tailstock feed.
 
To effectively use MT 2 collets you must use a draw bar which is easily made from 3/8-16 threaded rod. The collets work well on the headstock but not on the tailstock due to the fact that there is no way to use the draw bar independent of the tailstock feed.
Depends on the lathe. Some lathes have a tailstock that you can use a drawbar on (knockout hole) , and some lathes , 3/8-16 would be WAY too big (and some MT2 devices also - I have a off-center jig that the MT2 taper takes 1/4-20 threads..and my HF lathe only has about 8mm of knockout hole space, so 5/16-18 thread would be cutting it close)
 
Looking for a simple, minimalist way to attach a forstner bit to M2 tail stock. I have a M2 chuck but it is long and has a much larger diameter than tailstock quill. Opinions and options are welcome. The product is $53.

52602686269_cfab78bbd3_o.jpg

Checked your link and the set on Craft Supplies USA is for 3/8" shank bits, which is fine if that is what you want. I have, however, used 1/2" shank bits if I need a hole 1/2" or smaller. The only site online that seems to sell the 1/2" version of the Carter Strongbore system is Carter itself with about $19 shipping to my address. It seems like a good concept though.
 
Some lathes have a tailstock that you can use a drawbar on (knockout hole)
True. But can you turn the hand wheel?
On my lathes with a trough hole I would not be able to advance the hand wheel with a tight draw bar
Opening the handwheel would loosen the draw bar.
 
To effectively use MT 2 collets you must use a draw bar which is easily made from 3/8-16 threaded rod. The collets work well on the headstock but not on the tailstock due to the fact that there is no way to use the draw bar independent of the tailstock feed.
Went back and watched a couple of videos, one from AAW, and have to question the necessity of using a draw bar in the tail stock for a boring type of application. Headstock, yes, absolutely. But a forstner bit with a 3/8 shank in a 3/8 2MT collet in the tail stock would seem to self seat well when advance into the wood. Am I missing something or thinking incorrectly? Thanks!
 
Back
Top