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Carter style bearings for my 1412?

George Guadiane

George Guadiane

Joined
Sep 11, 2006
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turnedbygeorge.com
The ceramic pieces have started popping out of the guides on my Laguna 1412.
I'm wondering if anyone knows of a conversion to the Carter style. I don't see any point in ruining ANOTHER Resaw King so I'm hoping someone can direct me.
I did as google search and didn't come up with anything definitive.
 
It's my opinion that with a correctly set up bandsaw and proper resawing technique, you don't need guide bearings for resawing. I did it once to resaw an oversized piece, and got 3 pieces from a 7/8" thick board of curly soft maple. I'd contact Laguna and get a new piece of ceramic and the proper adhesive to make it stick. Ceramic doesn't transmit heat well, you shouldn't need high temp adhesive.
 
George Guadiane said:
The ceramic pieces have started popping out of the guides on my Laguna 1412.
I'm wondering if anyone knows of a conversion to the Carter style. I don't see any point in ruining ANOTHER Resaw King so I'm hoping someone can direct me.
I did as google search and didn't come up with anything definitive.
Click to expand...
George, have you call the people at Carter products? I found them to be very good at customer service. I just upgraded my 18 in Jet bandsaw, the best thing I ever did! I can finally cut straight, and the blade they recommended is the best I have ever used.
 
Emiliano Achaval said:
George, have you call the people at Carter products? I found them to be very good at customer service. I just upgraded my 18 in Jet bandsaw, the best thing I ever did! I can finally cut straight, and the blade they recommended is the best I have ever used.
Click to expand...
What blades did they recommend?
 
Well, as far as guide bearings go, you could probably get away with the side bearings for resawing, but I would never be without the thrust/back side of the blade bearing. The side bearings help keep the blade from drifting, which can happen if the piece you are sawing does not have a dead flat surface on the bottom, which can cause it to tilt, and a dead flat side against the fence. When that one slips out of like, you start getting breaks in the back side of the blade..... As far as blades go, the Lennox Diemaster Bimetal blades, which have M42 HSS teeth cut longer, straighter, and can be resharpened many times if you don't have the really fine teeth...

robo hippy
 
Mark Jundanian said:
Emiliano, I got a little confused. Are you using the 3/8" for resawing or cutting curves?
Click to expand...
I'm lazy, hate to change blades. I use it mainly to cut bowl blanks. But I just did some resawing , sending some super curly Koa and Mango to England. I did not change the blade. Worked great. When I got my bandsaw, used from a retied club member, he gave me about 20 blades, most of them brand new, most of them one inch wide, I prefer this little one much better. Aloha George!
 
A 3/8" blade can work great for resawing. Successful resawing is much more about feed speed than blade size and style. You have to go slow enough for the gullets to remove all the sawdust. Lots of teeth, you may actually get some burning at the correct feed speed. Few teeth and you can move quicker. If you see sawdust left on the cut face of the stock, you're feeding too fast!
 
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