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Chainsaw troubles!!

cypher

cypher

Joined
Jul 31, 2006
Messages
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Location
Fresno, Ca
Website
www.beyondbark.com
I have a really dumb question. I was looking at buying a new chainsaw and looked at the Poulan Pro series w/ the toolsless tensioner system. I was concerned that it would not stay tight when cutting. I ended up being convinced that it was a good system and I bought one. . . Turns out, my concerns were accurate. I cannot keep the tensioner tight and my chain comes loose every 2-3 min of cutting. The "nut" that tightens the bar is a plastic pop up tab and I am afraid I will break it if I try to tighten it any more.

Does any one else have this problem and any advice on how to fix it?

I have considered removing the plastic pop-up tab and replacing it w/ a washer and nut to allow more tension on the bar.
 
dkulze said:
Return it as defective (since it is) and get a Stihl or Husque. You'll be much happier and safer.

Dietrich
Click to expand...

I'll second Dietrich's motion. Get your money back. Then look for a Stihl or Husq dealer near you.
 
You might try calling the Poulan Co. and see what they are willing to do. When I bought mine 5-6 years ago the owners manual had a phone number to call concerning problems.
I have had good luck with mine and since we heat 90% of our house with a wood stove I cut a lot of wood.
 
cypher said:
To bad for me!! I can not return it so I am either out the money or i have to fix it.
Click to expand...

Thats to bad. If it is new they should take care of you. I would get a Stihl if you get a chance. Can't go wrong.
 
Chainsaw

Seems strange one would not keep a sales slip or some proof of purchase, unless the said item was kinda hot....if it was on the up-and-up, and the purchase was recent (sounds like it was), you should rightfully insist on and get a full refund, and grab the cash in your sweaty hand and RUN, do not walk to your nearest STIHL dealer!!!! :D :D
 
Just to cover the bases, if you're not familiar with chainsaws, a new chain will stretch quite substantially as it heats up in use. I don't find it uncommon to re-tension my Stihl or Dolmar saws 2 or 3 times after a new chain is installed. Once the chain is used for a bit, they don't have that issue.

It wasn't clear to me in your original message if you'd had chainsaw experience or if you had given up after just a couple re-tightenings.
 
New Chains

New chains, at least the Oregon chains (which Poulan uses) I have stretch quite a bit over the first 8 or so hours of use. If you overwork that saw like I do you'll also overheat the chain, and that means more stretching.

I regretted the purchase of my pooper pro, but it's actually handled some brutal use and abuse. I wouldn't recomend it based on it's lack of cojones alone, but you get whay you pay for :cool:

Charles
 
I'm going to chime in here on this already well answered question. There are always lots of recomendations on the Stihl and Husky saws when ever this comes up and they're both great saws. I've got two Stihls and my son has a "Poopon" and has considered an "up grade". One piece of information he got from a friend that I found reasonable was that in the event a part etc. was needed while working in a remote area, one might be more likely to locate a Stihl dealer than a Huskey dealer.
 
rbabbittjr said:
I shouldn't even make this suggestion, but here goes. Trade it in for a Stihl or Huskavarna......
Click to expand...

I truly agree with getting the Stihl or Huskavarna. I had a Craftsman which is the Poulan I think. Did not care for it at all. Could never get it started etc. Had the same problem with chains as yours. It was really incovenient and more difficult to change the chain as well. I finally sold it to another person who did not need it as much as i did. I purchased the Stihl and have never been happier. Also, if you get one, get the decompression button as well. I have that on mine and it makes it a breeze to restart the saw. Chains are a snap to change as well. You would be doing yourself a favor.

Bill
 
As Owen recommended, give Poulan's customer service a call. If they can't help you, then go from there. You can always put a nut & washer on it if they can't fix it.

From the Husqvarna website (I didn't know they owned Poulan!):
Husqvarna Outdoor Products Inc

1030 Stevens Creek Rd
Augusta, Georgia 30907
USA
Telephone: +1 706 826 6900
Telefax: +1 706 738 7076
For all Poulan customer service inquiries:
Telephone: +1 800 633 3522 or +1 800 833 5742
Telefax: +1 706 228 6537

If you decide to get rid of it, look at the McCullough saw, it should be in the same price range. Just be sure there's a local repair shop for parts in your area. It won't be a Stihl, but you won't have to mortgage your house for the saw either.
 
If you go 'Mac', you might take it back....

Brodie said:
<snip!>

If you decide to get rid of it, look at the McCullough saw, it should be in the same price range. Just be sure there's a local repair shop for parts in your area. It won't be a Stihl, but you won't have to mortgage your house for the saw either.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't go there..... I owned a 16" Mac for 10+ years, and when recently taking it in for tune-up, etc. (...because no matter what I did, it would no longer start), my local service guy said that it's becoming difficult, if not impossible, to find parts for Mac saws, recent or old.

I then immediately decided to get a Stihl MS 260 Pro (w/decompression switch) instead of sinking good money into trying to repair an old saw. I couldn't be happier with my new chain saw. Starts on virtually every first pull.

Rob
 
I went cedar tree cutting with my father-in-law and brother-in-law. They had a McCullogh and a Poulan, respectively. Both of their saws had longer bars on them then my little Stihl, but hours after their saws went down with mechanical problems my Stihl was still humming away. They are IMHO the best chainsaws out there.
 
Saws

Special message to "Brodie"....sez you... I would in a heartbeat bring the Deed to my property or the Title to my truck to the Stihl sales counter for a GOOD saw that I could 100% count on out in the middle of no-where with maybe a falling crew waiting. Here in the Northwest we take the Stihl reputation and service as GOSPEL!!! All your Macs, Sears,Poulans, Huskies, etc. are mere duckboat anchors...nothing more, nothing less. :D
 
Mr. Don said:
Special message to "Brodie"....sez you... I would in a heartbeat bring the Deed to my property or the Title to my truck to the Stihl sales counter for a GOOD saw that I could 100% count on out in the middle of no-where with maybe a falling crew waiting. Here in the Northwest we take the Stihl reputation and service as GOSPEL!!! All your Macs, Sears,Poulans, Huskies, etc. are mere duckboat anchors...nothing more, nothing less. :D
Click to expand...

I would assume this to be one vote for a Stihl? Is that how you really feel? :) :) :)
 
I take offense to including the husque in that boat anchor list. I'd consider them on par with the Stihls for the money. I've abused the crap out of my little 16" and have yet to have problem one. Most saw owners in my club have Husques, as they're well supported in this area of the country. Haven't heard a complaint yet (well, other than "I wanna 36" bar saw").

Now as to poops, macs, and crapsmans, they're just fine for trimming brush in the back yard but not much else (IMHO). That being said, if money is extremely tight and I needed one badly,..........I'd borrow a Stihl or Husque and wait it out.

Dietrich :D
 
the other consideration is cheap chain, it will stretch when hot more so than say windsor or oregon , check w/ you saw shop or if any pro's in the area.
 
I seem to recall that the original saw in question was supposed to be toolless tensioning and wasn't working correctly, leading to the whole "deffective" consideration. This would kinda rule out the stretched/heated chain situation, since the problem as described was the bar slipping when tensioned to accomodate that.

Dietrich
 
Religious saw wars!

I've become a died in the wool Stihl user, but will allow that Husky does make a reasonably decent second. The real and true issue with whatever you get is to only use PREMIUM gas, and a good grade of 2-cycle fuel oil - not that junk discount stores sell. Do that alone and you won't have to worry about starting, varnish build up, or any of the other issues folks have with 2-cycle engines (including me before I became a believer!)
 
In My opinion A chain saw is one tool that it pays to buy from a dealer.

I had a 20" poulin for about 6 years I bought it from James at the farm store. He could always make it run better than new. That model had a problem with carborator coming loose and no tool know to man could tighten the screw. James tightened it twice in 6 years.

I bought a Stihl from James when he stated carrying them six years ago.

We've moved since then. But I've met Houston. So far Houston has only sold me chains, sprockets and spark plugs. But if I have a problem I can't deal with.
I'm pretty sure Houston can fix it up just fine.

Happy turning,
Al
 
Yup.

Got my Husque from the store down the street. They do rental, maintenance, repair, etc also. I've yet to have to take it in but it's nice to know they'll be there.

Dietrich
 
Buy Stihl !!!

I would like to add my voice to Al's comments. Six or seven months ago my Stihl 310 chainsaw had a cracked crankshaft. It was a year or more out of warranty, so I bought a new saw, Stihl 361 :D , and went on line to Stihl customer service. A regional rep offered to provide some new parts to fix the 310, which I questioned. I told my dealer, Moneta Farm Service, and they went to bat for me. A couple of days later I was told to come and pick up my new saw at Moneta Farm Service. They used my old bar and chain, but the 310 head was new. No fee.

And when I needed a new weed whacker - you bet - I went to Moneta Farm Service and bought a Stihl. And it is so much easier to use than the old Ryobi.

Yes, having two chainsaws is overkill, but I grin a lot now. :D

And I like having a dealer I can trust and who has my back.
 
Dietrich: The reason I brought up chain stretching is that when it happens, it may seem the bar is slipping when in reality the chain is growing. To test the bar slipping, I guess one could mark a line where the bar exits the saw body and then run it for a bit and see if the line is no longer visible.

Ed M: I have become a new advocate of having 2 (or more) saws. It may seem like overkill to some, but I can attest to the lowered stress levels when you get your first saw stuck in a cut and have a second available to free the first. (One could also carry a spare bar and chain setup and dismount the engine from the stuck bar, but that in itself could be quite a chore.)

I also have begun rotating saw usage to rest a saw after heavy/hot cutting. It saves a lot of frustration when trying to restart an overheated saw.
 
You are correct.

Owen,

Been there, done that. I have used the second saw to retrieve the first after it got wedged in. So, I don't apologize for my indulgence. And rotating saws will make both last longer. I also put different style chains on each when I am cross-cutting and ripping so that I get better cuts and am forced to rotate saws.
 
After following this thread a few days, and discussing it this morning at our monthly AAW meeting, I think I will let my brother-in-law keep my Poulan that he borrowed months ago and go buy a Stihl. I haven't really had any problems with the Poulan but also haven't used it much. As my turning skills have grown I see more and more need for a good chainsaw. I have noticed that some people like their particular brand of saw but Stihl owners are fanatical about it. :eek:

Soon as my leg heals so I can get back to turning (shattered femur 7 weeks ago, my advice to the rest of you is to stay off ladders if over 50) I am going to find a good deal on a Stihl. Any recomendations on a particular model for a guy that uses one occasionally? Don't need a monster but hate to get stuck with one that is too small. For what it's worth my max dia on current lathe is 16".

Also now see a need to replace my weedeater and other lawn stuff with Stihl's. You folks are convicing! ;)
 
Woodwish,

On the assumption that you don't want to bust the budget with the chainsaw, I would recommend a Stihl 310 with a 20" bar. If you want to upgrade from that, consider the 361 with a 20" bar.

As to the weed-whacker/trimmer, I got a Stihl FS 80 RZ and have been extremely pleased. It starts and cuts like I would want it to. I wanted one which could stand up and handle tough weeds, but I didn't want to use it 40 hours a week. This was the recommended trimmer.

Is the brother-in-law with your Poulan the one who buys your end-grain sealer? I always tell folks to use end-grain sealer like your brother-in-law is paying for it. Recently my brother-in-law stopped by the Yankee Symposium to see the Instant Gallery and I introduced him to Bob Rosand as the one who buys my sealer. Fortunately he knows the joke.
 
I know what you're talking about with the chain stretch, Owen. I was assuming that the original post was taking that into account, since he was talking about the bar not holding. Maybe not, though.

Can't quite afford my second saw yet (got an electric for the shop but that doesn't quite count as I don't have a 1/4 mile extention cord) but I make up for it with the axiom that I never cut alone. If I'm going to be doing anything but milling in the driveway (when the missus is home), I'll have a backup saw along attached to it's owner. Makes holding direct pressure on the wound and dialing 911 at the same time much easier, if the need arises. Also, can switch off hot saws and hot sawyers.

Dietrich
 
Ed Moore said:
Woodwish,



As to the weed-whacker/trimmer, I got a Stihl FS 80 RZ and have been extremely pleased. It starts and cuts like I would want it to. I wanted one which could stand up and handle tough weeds, but I didn't want to use it 40 hours a week. This was the recommended trimmer.

.
Click to expand...

Sorry to go a tad off topic here but this may be of interest. I have a 4 yr. old Stihl trimmer. It has been well maintained and cared for. This spring I took it of the shed and filled the empty tank with fresh fuel. A couple of pulls and it was running, but it had no power. Fiddled a bit put in a fresh spark plug, no improvement. Took it to my local dealer and explained the problem. He said "I think I can save you the service fee. Just pull it over one time." I pulled the starter rope and he said "yup. Take it home and remove the spark arrester. Soak it in lacquer thinner for an hour or so and blow it out with compressed air." Showed me how to remove the arrester and sent me on my way. I followed the instructions and it is as good as it was new. Although I'm a big fan of the Stihl product line, the local dealers are as important as the products they sell. ;)
 
Owen, no one should go to the woods without felling wedges and the capability of driving them - period. I've felled with guys who began their lumbering careers with axes and crosscuts and could make a tree fall within six inches of a designated spot eighty feet away, and they wouldn't trust the wind enough to go without. The final answer is to remove the engine from the bar, which you've probably bent by now, and walk away slowly, keeping an eye on the tree.

Now limbing is another matter, and in my opinion more dangerous than felling. At least it produces more accidents; some quite gruesome. Where most shake the tree and wear a hard hat for felling, they like to limb under without looking and sometimes without chaps. For that problem even a folding pruning saw to clear a pinch works well.

Woodwish, you won't go wrong with even a common grade Stihl or Johnsruds/Husquvarna. The woods grade saws are almost indestructable, but are expensive. Get the bar length which will rip a piece as large as your lathe will swing plus about two inches, then get the displacement to handle it. Throw away the "safety" chain and get something that will rip without heating so bad like a (semi)chisel design, without beating you to death on crosscuts like a skip tooth can.

The right kind of chain, sharpened and clearing the kerf won't heat or stretch much at all after break-in. Just remember not to tighten it while it's hot and expanded. Or if you do, not as tight as you normally would. Not sure any automatic device capable of tensioning through the range of strain wouldn't contribute to chain stretch.
 
MichaelMouse, I strongly agree with just about everything you've said except
MichaelMouse said:
Get the bar length which will rip a piece as large as your lathe will swing plus about two inches,
Click to expand...
. I'd have to have a 36" bar to meet what my modified Stuby 750 can turn. That won't work as I certainly couldn't pick up the powerhead that would run it! I can easily cut a 38" diameter tree with my Stihl MS260 and 20" bar. Just cut from both sides.

Also, although I did purchase two from a dealer, my first Stihl was off eBay - a used 360 with 25" bar that I picked up to split large logs. It has the older professional chain that I've found does not cut as well as Stihl's newer safety chains. I've tried a skip tooth, and you are right about the vibration and bucking. The newer Sthil 'green' chain works almost as well, but without the extra stuff.
 
And another thing . . .

My first chainsaw was Poulan Pro that I bought new about twelve years back. It lasted me almost eight years, cutting all kinds of things. I found out that about five or so years back, Poulan seriously cut back on the features that made that old saw last so well. Older ones are very good saws, but the new ones are Harry homeowner grade.
 
The only problem with a Sthil is that you can not get parts from any but a Stihl dealer. No one else will repair them so check for avaialability first. Husky' parts are available on line. both are very good saws. remember Poulan's are made by the electrolux vacuum cleaner company. . . nuff said
 
Skip-Tooth Chain

While a skip-tooth chain can "bounce" (because it has less teeth in the cut) it's usually because the chain has not been precisely sharpened, guaged, and balanced. I run a 28" full skip chain in my Husky 372 and the saw's as smooth as silk (or at least as smooth as any full-comp chain) going through whatever (other than imbedded steel, of course). I do, however, mic the teeth before I start sharpening and then grind each tooth precisely the same length on both sides of the chain. I likewise guage the depth spurs very carefully. While I use a modified tooth grind, the spurs are set to factory spec. I know others who grind their spurs down more to take a more aggressive cut, but it heats the chain and clogs the tooth gullets making things rough and hard to control.

Yeah, I carry 6 wedges and a 3 pound hand sledge to drive them. Haven't had to cut a saw free yet.
 
Well, I have a Husqvarna 350 that was a gift and I'm ready to throw it under the wheels of a really big truck. I find it impossible to start (had to return the first 2 because NO ONE could start them) and have taken it to the repair shop 3 times in the last several months in total frustration. That guy said that Husqvarna uses a really cheap carburator (sp?) that will not hold any adjustment. I gave up and bought an 18" electric from Sears -- not my ideal choice by any means but at least it STARTS! I initially thought that I couldn't start the Husky because I didn't have enough pull speed but none of the guys I know can start it either. My repair guy recommends Shindaiwa but that's even more expensive than the Husky.
 
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