Choice of sharpening systems

[Dave Landers]

I also made my own grinder platform angle setting things. Description on my website: https://dlwoodturning.com/grinder-platform-setting-jigs/

 

[Karl Loeblein]

I also made my own grinder platform angle setting things. Description on my website: https://dlwoodturning.com/grinder-platform-setting-jigs/

Thanks for sharing an easy & inexpensive way to make these jigs. Just one suggestion to help clarify your diagram and instructions. It would help to mention drawing a vertical line that’s 90 degrees to the level line for measuring the 22.5/40/60 degrees from.

 

[Allen Mattsen]

Yes a Robo Rest would be nice. I see a few for sale on ebay time to time. Another possible source for an angle finder is Ron Brown’s Best. I made my own from ~1/8” plexi sheet from Lowes. Use a General Tools steel protractor to measure the tool bevel angle, and keep adj the platform till you get the desired angle. Use the grind wheel to cut the arc into a sized piece of plexi. Use a rotary cutter to relieve the arc, leaving proud areas at each end of the arc, mark the angle on the plexi. 1 piece can have a different angle at each end. Be aware regardless of what angle setter used, the measured bevel on the tool will vary with tool thickness, a degree or 2. Its fine, as the objective is repeatability not 0.1 degree accuracy. I can post a pic if needed.

Yes, I'd love a pic. Also hadn't thought of ebay as a place to try and find a r rest. I do have and use a metal protractor, and a digital bevel gauge which I haven't tried for this purpose, as of yet. Someone local gave me a 40° 3D-printed setup gauge and one for Nova tenon/recess. I know many use the Rapor gauges but they are missing several degrees that'd be nice to have.

 

[Doug Freeman]

Here is a pic of the 3 I have made and holding the 30 deg at the grinder. Each one can set 2 angles. Its possible to cut the blank for 4 angles, but I wanted to keep the “hight” down, and I didnt spend any time to lay things out for optimization, I just did it.

I loosen the platform, let the angle finder set the angle with the 2 contacts on the wheel, and tighten the platform. The material is .090” thick. Wherever the clear sheet plastic is in your store.

 

[Allen Mattsen]

Here is a pic of the 3 I have made and holding the 30 deg at the grinder. Each one can set 2 angles. Its possible to cut the blank for 4 angles, but I wanted to keep the “hight” down, and I didnt spend any time to lay things out for optimization, I just did it.

I loosen the platform, let the angle finder set the angle with the 2 contacts on the wheel, and tighten the platform. The material is .090” thick. Wherever the clear sheet plastic is in your store.

View attachment 39460
View attachment 39461

I've got some clear acrylic just like that sitting behind my grinder right now. Perfect!

 

[Jim Hursh]

I have the Wolverine system including the Vari Grind 1 on my Rikon 1hp slow speed grinder with 80 and 350 grit CBN wheels. Buying CBN again, I'd go with 180 and the 350. I replaced the Wolverine flat tool rest with on by Stuart Battey as I liked his better. So far so good, though I'm always on the lookout for better options.

What did you use to mount Stuart Battey tool rest? I also have a rikon 1 HP

 

[john lucas]

I just had an article published in Ameri an Woodturner that shows my home made tool.rest. it's part of the disc as far sharpening article. However this rest works great on grinders and Sanders as well. I also build my own a gle setting g jigs. You can find a video showing these bugs. Vote to YouTube and type in john60lucas/sharpening tips

 

[Larae Palmer]

As a new turner I am grateful to have this forum available as a learning resource. I settled on the Oneway setup with the Wolverine 1. I’m now looking at the Kodiak platform in as much as the Reid’s Roborest is no longer available. The Oneway platform is just too iffy and difficult for my arthritic fingers.

 

[Larae Palmer]

Does anyone have experience with the Kodiak platform? I’d like to know how consistent the setting angles are. Any other input would also be appreciate.

 

[Larae Palmer]

Or perhaps I’ll give making some jigs a try.
I’ll stop now!

 

[Don Armour]

As a new turner I am grateful to have this forum available as a learning resource. I settled on the Oneway setup with the Wolverine 1. I’m now looking at the Kodiak platform in as much as the Reid’s Roborest is no longer available. The Oneway platform is just too iffy and difficult for my arthritic fingers.

I too and a newbie. Just under two yrs. I have the Kodiak and like it - albeit it’s the only one I have had.

For basic set angles it seems to work well. I use Ellsworth gouges so I had to make my own setting and insert but when I went to David’s school he indicated my grind was close.

Every time I have reached out to Ken he has been very helpful.

Best of Luck

Don

 

[Bill E Moore]

Does anyone have experience with the Kodiak platform? I’d like to know how consistent the setting angles are. Any other input would also be appreciate.

I had Wolverine but now use and prefer the Kodiak. The platform settings are consistent and quick to set up. I use the 15 deg setting for scrapers (including negative rake) and always consistent. I use the 60 deg setting for some skews. I hand grind a 40/40 on the platform but have a Stuart Batty angle gauge to set the platform to 40 deg. One thing I don't like, but not a deal killer, is when you change angles on the platform you also have to move it in or out to keep it close to your wheel. I thought Ken was going to make a different platform that pivoted differently so you only need to make one adjustment, but I could be mistaken. The swivel head / sliding arm assembly is also very consistent. I use primarily the B2 and A2 settings. I found that an Ellsworth type grind falls between the 2 and 3 slot so I just made a simple spacer to get a consistent angle. Easy enough to do if you have certain angles you want that don't fall into the 1,2, 3 / A,B settings. I wouldn't bother with the sliding sharpening guides they offer. I got them and don't find them useful. Overall, I personally have found it much easier to get consistent shapes that I want on my tools with the Kodiak. My hands are also getting quite arthritic so the swivel head system is a help. FWIW I've got 180 and 320 grit CBN wheels.

 

[Doug Freeman]

The “settable” platforms are pretty good, knowing they return to the same spot. If the Kodiak requires moving the arm position, which will affect bevel angle, then its a bit self defeating.

Plain pivoting platforms are much easier to use if an angle setter is used. These can be purchased but are also easy to diy. Below are a couple of diy I use.

 

[Dan Kozar]

I have a Rikon slow speed grinder and plan on getting CBN wheels for it. Have been debating whether to get the Wolverine Jig system or the Kodiak. Is Kodiak worth the extra money? Any other systems I should consider?

I have a slow speed grinder with cbn wheels, and the wolverine system. Got the wolverine when it came with the spring. I am quite happy with it. However when choosing grits for cbn wheels, I would choose 60 and 180. If you don't think that the 180 grit is fine enough, hone with a 600 grit diamond credit card size hone. Except for skews, I am happy with the edge from a 180 grit wheel. I chose the 60 grit wheel, because I often regrind a new tool to suit my taste. The 180 grit take forever to regrind a bowl gouge with a traditional grind (which is usually much cheaper) to a side grind. The 80 grit is slightly quicker than the 180 grit, but the 60 grit that I just got is really much quicker. The turning club that that I belong to just bought 5 Crown M42 1/2" traditional grind bowl gouges, that I reground to an Ellsworth profile in about 10 minutes each. That included shaping on the 60 grit, and final sharpening on the 180 grit. The cost difference between the trad. grind and side grind (similar to ellsworth) was $20 each.

 

[Doug Freeman]

@Dan Kozar where did you find a 60gr cbn wheel? I’ve only seen 80gr - 60gr is much better for shaping. I use a 46gr stone wheel for shaping.

 

[Monty Ivy]

I use the Sorby Pro-Edge. Can't say enough good things about it. One primary difference between that and a wheel type rig is that there is no hollow grind introduced to the tools. Flats stay flat. Belts are long lasting, typically 3-4 months. Inexpensive abrasives are available from 3rd parties. Any 2x30.5" belt will fit. It's definitely worth a look for those wishing to upgrade or explore other options.

 

[robo hippy]

Doug, you might try D Way. I know Dave Schweitzer had a 10 inch 60 grit on a big Jet high speed grinder for shaping his tools. Eric Lofstrom uses one as well, and he has a few custom tools he makes and sells that come from D Way.

robo hippy

 

[Allen Mattsen]

Woodturners wonders carries 60grit wheels. I recenlt got an 80 grit from him at the Oregon Woodturning Symposium. Debated 60grit but unless you do a ton of shaping tools, 80 should suffice.

 

[Doug Agee]

I have the Kodiak system and I works great for most of the standard bevel angles. I wanted to add a few like a 55° and 35° so a made angle iron spacers to quickly maker reapeatable bevle angles. It may not be perfect, but it is consistent.

 

[Lewis Elliott]

Neither was I, and just watched the video:

View: https://youtu.be/SOCYlZElFIs

I was impressed with Ken Rizza's ingenuity.

Although, I used the vari-grind one system almost exclusively for about 15 years, I've abandoned that, and gone back to methods I learned back in the early 90's, the traditional grind using the V-arm for gouges. I only use the Wolverine platform, v-arm, and occasionally the skew jig attached to the v-arm. It's a very simple system, and I can produce a variety of gouge grinds that are (in my opinion) superior to anything done on a vari-grind one and similar. I'm still using Norton premium SG wheels, and I just don't see any need to change, even though they have fallen out of favor with the "woke" turners. Even with changing diameters, setup is done as quickly as any other gadget can do.......I match the current grind perfectly every time. All my gouges are honed by hand, and it's done in seconds.....that is, if you know what you're doing! Did you know you can re-hone a dozen times before going back to the grinder? That really does speed up your sharpening process, not having to go back to the grinder.....and, your tools last longer, to boot! (I can re-hone and be back at the lathe in less than 30 seconds!)

All this skips the plethora of gadgets woodturners are subjected to these days! It's hard not to be sucked into all that, when you're just learning how to turn.....then, you're stuck with a means of sharpening without ever knowing what turners knew a hundred years ago. I know, because I've been there and done that.......just like the rest of the current newbies going through that phase of learning. I've got a drawer full of gadgets and special tools that never lived up to their promise. Too bad, because (IMO) turners just starting out are victims of the great amount of gadgets they are subjected to......and, it all costs you money that is unnecessarily spent.....not to mention the time you've wasted by skipping the kind effort that brings the kind of knowledge your Great Grandpa knew!

It's not about buying that perfect jig, or learning that perfect grind........it's about simple concepts combined with time in the saddle, my friends!

-----odie-----

What do you use to hone your gouges?

 

[Lewis Elliott]

a possible consideration.
The woulverine is just about everywhere I have been for the past 15 years or so.

If you plan on taking classes or doing demos you can carry your varigrind and reproduce your grind.
Few people plan on doing demos but if you get good at turning you will get invited to do demos.

I use the Ellsworth jig. I carry a little wooden block cut to fit the pocket of the Wolverine. I set the pocket position and I can get my Ellsworth grind on my gouges.

Is the wooden block setting the distance of the wolverine “vee”-arm, or is just between the ellsworth jig strut and the wolverine pocket?

 

[robo hippy]

Lewis, I never hone my gouges. With a light touch on the grinding wheel, it is more efficient, to me, to just hit the grinder. I do platform sharpening, so no jigs to set up, which does make it a bit faster. With the skew chisel, that does need to be stropped to remove the burr. This can range from the black 'polishing' compound you can get at the big box stores which are in the 800 grit range, up to 60,000 grit green stropping compound from Taylor Tools, and other sources. Look at the sharpening video I put up in, brain fart, can't remember, but the unrelated topics section.... In searching out 'stropping' there are so many variations on compounds and surfaces. Denim can work just fine, or canvas. Plywood does work, and old tooling leather or an old leather belt can work as well. Generally, I am finding, many prefer thin material. I might have to try just a nice piece of madrone or cherry which is are medium density woods..... There is no end to stuff to experiment with. For touch ups between trips to the grinders, many will use diamond cards. Generally they are the finer grits, from 600 or so to 1000 grit. I have found that a diamond lapping plate that is 8000 grit, it still leaves a burr....

robo hippy

 

[hockenbery]

Is the wooden block setting the distance of the wolverine “vee”-arm, or is just between the ellsworth jig strut and the wolverine pocket?

the Ellsworth jig geometry uses the 7,4,2
pivot point 7” out and 4” down from the wheel face.
gouge protrusion is 2” out
Changing the geometry gives something different from the Ellsworth grind.

You can get a 3/4” square steel tube from the big box store. bolt on a wooden fixture that has a pocket at the correct height.


here is a block I take to demos. Fits in a properly set up woulverine pocket to give the height 4” below the wheel center. for the photo the block is in a DonnGeiger Vertical Solution pocket. A great device Don no longer offers.
this device has a height adjustment on the pocket.

 

[Lewis Elliott]

Lewis, I never hone my gouges. With a light touch on the grinding wheel, it is more efficient, to me, to just hit the grinder. I do platform sharpening, so no jigs to set up, which does make it a bit faster. With the skew chisel, that does need to be stropped to remove the burr. This can range from the black 'polishing' compound you can get at the big box stores which are in the 800 grit range, up to 60,000 grit green stropping compound from Taylor Tools, and other sources. Look at the sharpening video I put up in, brain fart, can't remember, but the unrelated topics section.... In searching out 'stropping' there are so many variations on compounds and surfaces. Denim can work just fine, or canvas. Plywood does work, and old tooling leather or an old leather belt can work as well. Generally, I am finding, many prefer thin material. I might have to try just a nice piece of madrone or cherry which is are medium density woods..... There is no end to stuff to experiment with. For touch ups between trips to the grinders, many will use diamond cards. Generally they are the finer grits, from 600 or so to 1000 grit. I have found that a diamond lapping plate that is 8000 grit, it still leaves a burr....

robo hippy

Thanks robo.

 

[Kirk Witmer]

I used to hone gouges but stopped being as it was inefficient and required more grinding later since I honed with a flat file and sharpened with a hollow grind. I use a Rikon slow speed with a cbn wheel and the Wolverine system varigrind 1 absolutely love it. I would buy it again don’t settle for a cheaper alternative.

 

[Lewis Elliott]

I used to hone gouges but stopped being as it was inefficient and required more grinding later since I honed with a flat file and sharpened with a hollow grind. I use a Rikon slow speed with a cbn wheel and the Wolverine system varigrind 1 absolutely love it. I would buy it again don’t settle for a cheaper alternative.

Good input, thanks.