Clean Armor UV cure finishes

[Steve Tiedman]

Roaming general woodworking sites I came across this fella showing Clean Armor UV cure finishes. Research it for yourself, but highlights:
- Expensive
- No VOC (all solids, so a little goes a long way vs. solvent based finishes?)
- Does not cure until exposed to a UV lamp, then it's cured fully hard in a couple minutes
- It's a surface coat, 4 sheens from flat to gloss, and there is a slightly thinned sealer version, too
- Appears to be very hard wearing, and solvent/water resistant
- To my eye, the result look varnish amber-like, not water clear

View: https://youtu.be/HiJdtJeO0JQ?si=t1qkOVET_AgRG0hQ

Other youtube resouces can be found about it, too.

Mfr: https://www.cleanarmor.com/wood-coatings

I don't think I see myself leaving my preferred straight oil finish/look, but if you have a need for a tough top coat than typical solvents and water won't bother, check it out.

 

[Randy Anderson]

Steve, great timing. I watched the same video this morning and went to the web site to read a bit more. I watch a lot of his videos and trust his advice. It did seem a bit amber to me and the price made it a bit too steep to just try out. Maybe someone has some experience with it. For now, I'll stick with shellac for gloss finish and spray clear coat poly when I want a deep build up.

 

[Richard Coers]

Who even wanted to ban it? Does it change everything? I mean EVERYTHING? When I see those kind of "Headlines", I refuse to even watch the video. Just like I never answer the door when salesman are on the prowl in our neighborhood.

 

[Steve Tiedman]

Richard, I think the point is that there are governmental bodies at various levels that are limiting and/or banning VOCs, forcing manufacturers to reformulate or maybe discontinue, for better or worse. Watco comes to mind. I wouldn't shoot the messenger (Youtube guy) and his hyperbole, instead visit the manufacturer's site I included and see if it's a product you may want to use.

 

[Dennis Weiner]

UV-curing finishes and epoxies have been on my list for a while now. Thanks for posting!

 

[Mark Jundanian]

I agree, "Stumpy Nubs" is a respectable source. The product is very interesting, even aside from the VOC issue. The application of UV light might be a little more difficult on a sculptural form than a board, at least with that particular handheld UV light. He doesn't mention eye protection, but I think amber tinted lenses may be called for with UV.

 

[Richard Coers]

Richard, I think the point is that there are governmental bodies at various levels that are limiting and/or banning VOCs, forcing manufacturers to reformulate or maybe discontinue, for better or worse. Watco comes to mind. I wouldn't shoot the messenger (Youtube guy) and his hyperbole, instead visit the manufacturer's site I included and see if it's a product you may want to use.

That's not news, didn't they start that in the 90s?
Wouldn't all solids be like a sheet of plexiglass? How can all solids come out of a can?
I'm saying all this tongue and cheek, but these aren't the movies, we don't need wild headlines and claims.
Now seriously, check the SDS sheet.Just because it doesn't have VOCs doesn't mean it is healthy. https://cdn.prod.website-files.com/...6605adcaf9b69989b8be4e3_Wood 700 SDS.docx.pdf

 

[Karl Loeblein]

Not to mention those UV lights are very expensive and potentially dangerous if it's bright enough to cure a finish.

 

[Jonathan Harkins]

Energy cured inks, coating, adhesives have been a staple in the print industry since the mid-90's. Widely used in other industries also.

Here are a few facts as they pertain to my industry.:

UV-cured coatings are VOC-free, or very nearly so.

UV-cured products work by cross-linking during exposure to light of a specific wavelength & intensity. The light exposure changes them from a liquid state into a solid state instantly. Effectively creating a plastic layer. This is not often solid, what appears to be solid is often porous.

UV-cured coatings can achieve a high gloss and clarity. This does depend upon the chemical makeup. Some photo-initiators cure amber-shade instead of clear. This isn't a problem for dark colors, not so great for clears.

UV-cured products can be formulated to be coatable by other products or not. COF can also be targeted.

UV-cured products will cure in bright sunlight in a pinch if your light source fails. It just takes longer to cure.

You don't want these products on your skin, wear proper PPE. Especially protect the eyes & skin from exposure to the curing lamp(s). I worry about this when I see hand-held lamps. Industrial curing systems have shields to contain this light.

It will be interesting to see how these products integrate into wood finishing by hobby woodworkers. My understanding is that they have been used in the commercial side of the industry for many years.

Does anyone else use energy-cured products in the work environment? Or commercial finishing operations?

 

[Bill Blasic]

I find that the good old sun cures UV a hundred times faster that artificial UV light.

 

[Darryl Fective]

I've had more than my share of fillings and crowns and I'd guess dentists have been using it for a long time. Not sure what theirs costs, but every time they shine that light in my pie hole, it's another $700+ charge.

 

[DON FRANK]

I have been using this product for a while with great results. I have cured it with UV lights on the lathe while turning slowly and also outside in the sun. Rock hard in 3 min. I have brushed it and sprayed it also. This stuff is no more expensive than Rubio Monocoat, has very little odor and you can get a project done quick. The fact that it doesn't have solvents that vent into the air makes the product go a lot further than you might think. I can finish a project with three coats with a teaspoon to table spoon of product. That is total for three coats. Am looking forward to trying the matt finish. Currently I have just used the satin.

 

[Jonathan Harkins]

I find that the good old sun cures UV a hundred times faster that artificial UV light.

A good product formulation coupled with proper lamp focus & intensity will cure full-coverage printed sheets of paper in a fraction of a second.

The same speed should be possible with the wood finish if the lamp source was ideal.

 

[Bill Blasic]

Well my pieces are quite a bit bigger than sheets of paper and any of the three lamp sources I have just do not cure 1/4" to 3/8" thickness very fast while I can put the same out in the sun and they cure in seconds. Not a chemist I just rely on what my eyes see

 

[William Rogers]

That is an expensive coating. I guess you are paying for the fast cure. I am just starting to use epoxy. The brand I am using is about $80 a gallon. It is notUV cure and I need a pressure pot to eliminate bubbles. This epoxy does have that “plastic look” and not something I would use on a bowl. However for wine goblets it is a good finish to stand up to liquids. Still experimenting on something to seal the wood before using the epoxy to eliminate the bubbles, but haven’t found anything yet that works. I’m going to try and thin it for a first coat to see if that will seal the wood.

From the manufacture they claim no VOC’s and it FDA compliant as food safe.

FAQS - Naked Fusion Resin

 

[Darryl Fective]

I just ordered some. I'm looking forward to trying it out.

 

[Kent Jaffrey]

I like the idea and wouldn’t mind the price, but the shelf life of 1 year gives me pause. Given the fact that using a quart in one year is unlikely I’m afraid the waste would increase the “real price” even more.

For those that use it have you tested the cure beyond the one year mark?

 

[Walter Mooney]

Kent, I think the “shelf life” statement is just to get you to buy more. If it’s kept in a black bottle, or any dark-colored container, and in a drawer or somewhere out of “sight” (out of the light), the shelf life should be indeterminate — no UV exposure, no curing taking place!

 

[John Snow]

I find that the good old sun cures UV a hundred times faster that artificial UV light.

That only works occasionally West of the Cascades.

 

[Darryl Fective]

I have been using this product for a while with great results. I have cured it with UV lights on the lathe while turning slowly and also outside in the sun. Rock hard in 3 min. I have brushed it and sprayed it also. This stuff is no more expensive than Rubio Monocoat, has very little odor and you can get a project done quick. The fact that it doesn't have solvents that vent into the air makes the product go a lot further than you might think. I can finish a project with three coats with a teaspoon to table spoon of product. That is total for three coats. Am looking forward to trying the matt finish. Currently I have just used the satin.

I'm guessing you thin it to be able to spray it?

It's cool stuff. I'm still learning to use it. A very thin coat will have minimal brush marks, but wow, that stuff will spread a long way! It's nice to be able to keep a small cup of it (even with a brush in it) and not have it skin over, thicken, etc.

I turned a small bowl today. I almost dropped it as I was brushing on a first coat. As I took it out in the sun, I felt a very warm feeling on the back of my hand and up my wrist. I had gotten a bit on my skin and like CA, it creates some heat when it kicks off. Pretty cool to be able to do the outside, then be able to handle it just minutes later to do the inside.

 

[Jonathan Harkins]

If any of you have interest in learning about UV-curing lamps and happen to find yourself in Atlanta at the IWF stop by the GEW booth. This company is well-known for making quality UV-curing units with many thousands of those units in usage around the world in industrial applications. Great people who are always happy to share the knowledge of how it works.

 

[Scott Horton]

Anyone know of alternative brands?

 

[guy laizure]

Anyone know of alternative brands?

Solarez I can't believe its not lacquer