coloring two part epoxy

[Dave Fritz]

I'm using Bob Smith Industries two part epoxy and would like to color it. What would give the best result, craft supply aniline dye, a powder dye, alumalite dyes or something else. I'm wondering too about adding mica type powders into the two part epoxy. I'm thinking about using it to fill some voids in a bowl.

 

[john lucas]

I have used annilyne dies, ,India ink a d now use Trans Tint dyes

 

[Lamar Wright]

I use Mica powders with two part epoxy to fill small voids. It comes in many colors, however, some voids adds character to the piece. The next bowl that I will be working on has a rather large crack that I will use epoxy mixed with real crushed turquoise.

 

[Dylan Skeean]

I used the same 2 part epoxy with the Black Diamond powder, it worked really well. Only takes a very small amount of the powder to get a nice color. If you want a darker color, add more powder.
I bought a package of about a dozen different colored pigment powders.

 

[Richard Shelby]

I use powdered minerals from

https://www.etsy.com/shop/49erMinerals?section_id=22240000

 

[Dave Fritz]

Thank you everyone. It sounds like most anything will work. I wonder if anything reduces the drying time and/or hardness of the epoxy when set?

 

[Jeff Jackson]

I've had better luck using dry pigment rather than liquid. If you use a little too much liquid it won't harden all the way. I just bought some assorted fresco powder pigments from Dick Blick. Chalk line chalk powder even works.

 

[Karl Koch]

I recently used powdered graphite in my epoxy on a couple of walnut bowls. Nice solid black color.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Charcoal works well with epoxy and is easy to make and process into a powder.

 

[Owen Lowe]

See if Bob Smith has a website with details on coloring. If not, West Systems provides some advice to ensure mixing and not interfere with curing: https://epoxyworks.com/index.php/adding-pigments-to-west-system-epoxy/

I use either artist acrylic or oil paints

 

[john lucas]

Dave. So far the only problems I have had is when using large amounts of acrylic paint. I know people.say you cant use acrylics but I have, it just harder to mix. Too much however and the epoxy won't cure. Stick with the eyes and powders. The onlynokother problem i have had is trying to add thickeners to make the epoxy as thick as clay. It cured hard but was filled with holes like foam. Like anything else it's best to do a.test on scrap before committing to the real thing.

 

[Dave Bunge]

I use black tempera paint powder at about 1 part powder per 10 parts epoxy. Less than $5 for a lifetime supply. Disperse the powder in Part A of the epoxy first before adding Part B (catalyst). Cures hard in the same length of time as unfilled, and has maintained a shiny black color for > 5 years so far.

Dave

 

[John Torchick]

Some custom fishing rod builders use Testor's paint. I'll dig up a link on this for the forum. Scroll to the bottom. This has a paint, if you can call it, for this procedure. It creates a swirl pattern but could color the entire batch of epoxy.
http://www.mudhole.com/Advanced-Techniques

 

[Clifton C]

John, I just spent a fun hour on mudhole.com... Talk about some neat stuff and ideas for pen makers. Thanks for the link.
cc

 

[John Torchick]

Care to share your findings? I used to deal with them but they reverted to a minimum sales per year. Out of my reach for what I did.

 

[John Tisdale]

I've been using AeroMarine 300/21 low-viscosity and 400/21 adhesive for years now - it is a cycloaliphatic epoxy. System-3, which is also cycloaliphatic, has some great pigments - a small jar lasts for years. I mix brown and black for a super dark brown.
And for what its worth, I've found that colloidal silica will not only thicken but it seems to absorb the colorant - little white specs drove me nuts before starting with colloidal silica.
My guess is that the System-3 pigments will work great with most other epoxies.
John